Latest Review: Montagne Jeunesse: Peel Off Passion Face Mask

January 17th, 2012

It’s hard to take a product with a picture like this one seriously, but I was in the mood for a cheap beauty fix. I was at Walgreens and saw an array of these one time use face masks from Montagne Jeunesse.  I picked this one, the Peel Off Passion Face Mask and the Chocolate Mud Face Mask.  They were $1.99 each or 2 for $3.00.

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5 Warnings About Skin Care and Cosmetics Containers

January 16th, 2012

Between worrying about whether my Tupperware container can be microwaved or my plastic water bottle contains BPA, it’s a miracle I have any time to eat at all.  (!)  With all of this concern about containers, I recently turned my attention to skin care containers, wondering if they could potentially be harmful as well.  While there are no likely estrogenic or carcinogenic effects from any of the containers I reviewed (whew!), there were a few other concerns I had, such as:

1.) You might have fecal matter bacteria in your makeup.

If a cream is available in a jar or a tube, select the tube.

If you could apply a skin care cream that 50 people had stuck their finger in, or a fresh one, which would you pick?  That’s essentially the question you’re asking yourself when considering a jar versus a tube.  Granted, all 50 people in this metaphor are you, but you get the general idea.  With each application, you transfer bacteria from your finger into the bacterial breeding ground that is your moisturizer.   According to dermatologist Dr. Jeannine Downie, M.D., “You can find staphylococcus, you can find micrococcus…and if you’re very unlucky…E. coli, which is obviously from fecal matter.”  (source)

Add in the fact that light and air also hit the top surface of your cream every time you open the jar, breaking down unstable antioxidants, and you’ve got me seriously wondering why any moisturizer comes in a jar.

2.)  Tubes still expose your skin care cream to air, breaking down its potency.

Antioxidants such as retinol and vitamin C break down quickly upon exposure to light and air.  The problem is that seemingly air-tight tubes will draw in air during the push-out and suck-back between the inside and outside of the package. The only alternative?  Airless pump bottles, which pumps up from the bottom by a plunger, so no air is trapped inside a product.

3.)  Clear bottles offer little protection for antioxidants.

Back when I was younger and had more time on my hands, I used to go to ULTA and Sephora and marvel at how many of their vitamin C creams had partially oxidized and turned yellow or brown in their packages.  It was amazing to me – how much, if any, more could it cost to package a product in an opaque container?  At any rate, given that many antioxidants break down upon direct light exposure, it is best to wrap your clear containers in aluminum foil.

4.)  Many products break down after one month of opening.

It’s always tempting in our hyperconsumer culture to buy in bulk.  I myself could save a few hundred dollars each year if I were to buy the bulk size of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic instead of the regular, but I refuse to do it.  Why?  Again, antioxidant stability:  Every time I open the bottle, I am losing a small amount of product potency.

As a general rule of thumb, products containing retinoids break down within a month of opening.  I tend to apply this rule to all of my antioxidant-containing products, not just retinoids.

5.)   Lip products are breeding grounds for bacteria.

Just like moisturizer jars, lip glosses will tend to breed many types of bacteria therein.  Even if you never share makeup, it is good policy to wipe your lipstick or gloss off with a tissue before and after each application.  After all, if the average woman eats 7 pounds of lipstick in her lifetime, well, you can only imagine how much bacteria is included with each application.  Ew.  So, keep the bacteria minimal by keeping your packages clean.

 

Interview with Michelle Madhok: Founder of SheFinds

January 13th, 2012

Of course you’ve heard of SheFinds.  We think it’s one of the best beauty and style sites online. We caught up with the founder of SheFinds, Michelle Madhok, and picked her brain on all things beauty.

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Skin Care Resolutions

January 12th, 2012

Skin Care Resolutions

Maybe now is the right time to get back on your feet and start having the proper skin care. Let’s face it, there are still a lot of women who would occasionally sleep with her make up on, doesn’t apply sunscreen, or neglects to have an appointment to consult a dermatologist with the proper solutions for their skin. However, because the year has finally made its way, we have gathered information on how you can start making your skin look better.

Moisturize Right After Showering

After taking a warm shower, essential oils are being stripped off our skin. As long as it is properly applied, face cream and body lotions with anti aging ingredients are some of the best substitutes. See, it is said that the best time to apply these products are when your skin is damp– within ten minutes of turning off the water, because when you wait a little longer, your skin will start to lose water vapor. So, for you to constantly remember to apply lotion right when your skin is damp, store body lotion in the shower.

Apply Sunscreen

This has been said again and again–always wear sunscreen. Make sure the sunscreen you’ll apply has at least SPF 30 and try to reapply it as often as possible. You also have to look for a sunscreen that says “non-greasy” or “sheer” on the label.

Take It Off

Yes, most women are guilty of this – keeping their make up on while sleeping. You know that make up can mix with dirt and skin oils that will result to having zits. Make up also cause skin-damaging free radicals to be trapped in your skin. So make sure that you don’t neglect to remove your make up at night. One good tip is to remove it once you get home, so that you won’t forget (or be lazy) to do it later on during the night.

3 Secrets of Perfect False Eyelashes

January 10th, 2012

Eyelash Extensions, originally uploaded by shavasana eyelash extensions.

Acne Myths

January 10th, 2012

Acne Myths

One of the most common problems of women today is the development of acne on their skin. This is why most face care products that women would buy are the ones which will help them remove acne on their skin. There are also a lot of skin care reviews available which will help prevent acne from developing on their skin. However, we found out that there are women who still believe in some myths on acne.

Myth # 1: acne is only for teenagers

You have to remember that all acne can be developed anytime. Did you know that most patients which are treated for acne are the ones between the age of 20 and 52?

Myth # 2: Acne will eventually go away

There are some who believes that development of acne is just a phase. Apparently, this isn’t true since acne can last for years, or a lifetime. If you don’t try treating this, it can worsen and scar. You can definitely treat acne–it usually begins with mild treatments which you can get over-the-counter. However, if this doesn’t help, your dermatologist can prescribe oral and/or topical medicine.

Myth # 3: Wash your face often to have less acne

Acne isn’t necessarily caused by dirt. As a result, this can’t simply be washed away. If you have acne, one of the best things that you can do is to find facial cleansers that contain benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and sulfur compounds which can definitely help treat acne. Remember that abrasive soap won’t help in clearing acne. On the other hand, if you use harsh scrubs and cleaners, this may actually irritate your face since it strips skin of its natural moisture. As a result, this will cause oiliness as the skin tries to balance dryness.

Latest Review: Yes to Blueberries: Cleansing Facial Towelettes

January 10th, 2012

We love facial cleansing cloths and try new ones whenever we can. We picked up the Cleansing Facial Towelettes from the Yes to Blueberries line and couldn’t wait to try them.  There’s something about  blueberries and the pretty purple package that made us bee-line straight to them.

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11 Winter Beauty Products Every Person Needs

January 9th, 2012

Oh, winter.  Now that the holidays are over and the trees are [starting to be] put away, there’s not much to distract us.  Instead of noticing twinkling Christmas lights, I’m finding dry skin and patchy redness emblazoned by harsh incandescent overheads.  Luckily, there’s hope for me and similar-minded folk, as there are eleven products that will help us all make it through:

1.)  Clinique Superbalm ($13.00, Amazon.com)

Besides I love it, I swear by it, I can’t live without it, there’s not much else to say about Clinique Superbalm.  Well, I guess until you get into the superb ingredients list, which includes ultra-hydrating linoleic acid, soothing aloe, antioxidant powerhouses vitamins C and E, and even calming lavender extract.  My lips used to get chapped regularly until I started putting this on my lips every night, and then it stopped.  What’s more, I secretly take a dallop of Clinique Superbalm on the tip of my finger and rub it around my nose whenever I have a cold and the skin has become dry and cracked.  It heals it within 2 days, no kidding.  (I guess this also is no longer a secret.  Oh well.)

Probably the only caveat about this product is that it contains petrolatum, which some of my more green movement-savvy readers do not wish to use because it is a non-renewable ingredient.

Ingredients in Clinique Superbalm:  Petrolatum, polybutene, polydecene, bis-diglyceryl polyaclydipate-2, octyldodecanol, microcrystalline wax (cera microcirstallina), tocopheryl acetate, polyglyceryl-2 triissostearate, aloe barbadensis extract, cholersterol/potassium sulfate, cholesterol, chordeum vulgare (barley) extract, triticum vulgare (wheat) germ extract, squalane, linoleic acid, retinyl palmitate, sclareolide, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, lavendula angustifolia (lavender), stearyl glycyrrhetinate, betula alba (birch) extract, citrus grandis (grapefruit california), mentha viridis (spearmint), butylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, red 7 lake (ci 15850), yellow 5 (lake (ci 19140) [iln21532]

2.)  Clinique 7-Day Scrub.

It may sound counterintuitive to use an exfoliating product in the winter, but there’s almost nothing your skin needs more.  According to dermatologist Dr. David E. Bank, author of Beautiful Skin, “[Winter] air seeks moisture, pulling it out from your skin.  As a result, you get flaky, scaly skin and a pale, dull complexion.”  Clinique 7-Day Scrub contains very small polyethylene beads that gently exfoliate the skin without the irritation associated with some alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) in other scrubs.  I’m a huge fan!

Ingredients in Clinique 7 -Day Scrub:  water, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, butylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, coconut oil, carylic/capric triglyceride, polyethylene, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth 20, sorbitol, hexyldecyl stearate, bisabolol, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, oleth-10 phosphate, caprylyl glycol, 1-2 hexanediol, stearyl alcohol, tea-carbomer, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, chlorphenesin

3.)  Kerastase Nutritive Masquintense ($40.00, Amazon.com)

In the harsh winter climate, skin isn’t the only victim:  the hair also becomes more dry and brittle, and far less shiny and lustrous.  Fortunately, there is Kerastase Nutritive Masquintense, a conditioning treatment that is a mix of hydrating alcohols, silicones, oils, and hydrolyzed wheat protein.  True story:  I actually use mine from my shoulders down when I get on the treadmill, then tie my hair into a knot.  When I shower afterwards, my hair gets the effects of having a 30-minute-plus deep conditioning treatment – and it forces me to stay on the treadmill for a full session too!  :-)  It leaves my hair feeling much softer and more moisturized, which is a blessing in the winter months.

4.)  Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair ($82.99, Amazon.com)

If Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair was a man, it would be my one true love:  No matter how far away from it I stray, I always come running back.  And true to form, it’s always there for me and never lets me down.  The reason?  Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair is extremely hydrating, soothing, and contains fair amounts of antioxidants and even a fair amount of sunscreen as a non-quantified bonus (in the form of octyl methoxycinnamate).  For you science buffs out there, the hydrating ingredients include glycoprotein/polysaccharides (found naturally in the stabilizing intracellular matrix of the skin), dimethicone, pantethine (also called panthothenic acid or vitamin B5), sodium hyaluronate (an excellent natural moisturizing factor), lecithin, and squalane. The soothing ingredients include chamomile, which is disguised on the ingredients list in its proper name, matricaria (anthemis nobilis); bisabolol (derived from chamomile), and allantoin (an anti-irritant derived from uric acid). Antioxidants include vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) and retinyl palmitate (a derivative of vitamin A which must be converted to retinaldehyde and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin in order to be effective. However, when present in sufficiently high concentrations, retinyl palmitate displays anti-aging and antioxidant benefits similar to that of retinol.)  And while I do not think of Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair primarily as an anti-aging treatment, the ingredients list lends me to believe that it may stave off signs of aging somewhat as well.   A definite must-buy.

5.)  Olay Quench ($17.29 for two bottles, Amazon.com)

Whenever I write a “best” list of products, whether it be for value or quality, Olay Quench always seems to make the cut.  The reason?  Not only is it extremely hydrating, but it also contains (what I estimate to be) a whopping 4% niacinamide, or vitamin B3.  In case you’re not familiar, niacinamide is a miracle ingredient, proven to do everything from stimulating collagen production and increasing elasticity to reducing fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and yellowing, according to a review in Dermatologic Surgery (amongst numerous other sources in dermatology).  Its effects are slow-acting but cumulative, and within 4-6 weeks of daily use, you will notice a difference.  Bonus points for hydration if you apply Olay Quench to slightly moistened skin fresh out of the shower!

6.)  Elizabeth Arden 8-Hour Cream ($17.00, Amazon.com)

Does your skin hang low, does it wobble to and fro?  Can you tie it in a knot, can you tie it in a bow?  Well, now I’m just getting a bit silly.  (See reference here.)  But truth be told, Elizabeth Arden 8-Hour Cream is designed for the driest of poorly conditioned skins, with a whopping 56.8% of the occlusive (water-binding) agent petrolatum.  Other hydrating ingredients include lanolin, vitamin E, mineral oil, castor oil, and corn oil.  Apply it to your dry, cracked feet under a pair of 100% cotton socks, or all over after a shower to still-moistened skin, and your skin will have significantly more moisture.  I promise.  My only reservation for using Elizabeth Arden 8-Hour Cream as a hand cream is that it does not contain sunscreen.  Yet if you are going to be indoors in the harsh winter months anyway, it is amongst the best treatments on the market for dry skin today – it truly is incredible for turning dry skin around.

7.)  Clinique Deep Comfort Body Wash ($21.00, Amazon.com)

I know the economy’s down, so I shouldn’t be recommending a product that doesn’t exactly deliver the biggest bang for your buck.  Yet hear me out:  Do you remember going out in the snow, coming in and having your mom hand you a cup of steaming hot chocolate?  Or even now, having a long day at work, and then drawing a warm bubble bath and soaking for hours?  Clinique Deep Comfort Body Wash is an indulgence like that:  a creamy, luxurious body wash that soothes and yes – even comforts – you from the outside in.  I say it doesn’t deliver as dramatic of results as the other ten products on the page because, quite frankly, it doesn’t.  Shea butter, glycerin, vitamin E and aloe are all hydrating, but in the form of a body wash, they simply don’t deliver the same results.  Still, if you’ve still got some holiday cash to spare, Clinique Deep Comfort Body Wash is one indulgence that just feels so good.   (And, to be fair, it doesn’t dry the skin like sulfate-based body washes or most soaps).

Ingredients in Clinique Deep Comfort Body Wash:  Purified water, butylene glycol, octyldodecyl myristate, polydecene, glycerin, tricaprylin, isocetyl stearate, behenyl alcohol, ptfe, peg-100 stearate, hydrogenated lecithin, aloe barbadensis gel, shea butter (butyrospermum parkii), tocopheryl acetate, sodium hyaluronate, dimethicone, glyceryl stearate, methyldihydrojasmonate, acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, linalool, coriander (coriandrum sativum), petrolatum, xanathan gum, tea-citrate, disodium edta, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, yellow #5 and yellow #6.

8.)  Jergens Natural Glow Self-Tanning Lotion ($6.00, Amazon.com)

I’ll be completely honest with you:  I’m pale and I love it.  Yet I also understand that a tan is believed to be attractive by most women and some men (I’m talking to you, George Hamilton).

With that said, I’ve patch-tested Jergens Natural Glow Self-Tanning Lotion, and for the winter months, it’s a go.  It’s a gradually-building formula with a fairly high concentration of dihydroxyacetone, the active ingredient found in most self-tanning lotions, tied in with a slew of other mildly hydrating ingredients like glycerin and octyldodecyl stearate.   I like the fact that you can control your level of tan according to the frequency of your applications.   My only warning is that it does not smell very pleasant, to say the least.  My recommendation is to apply it an hour before you take a shower to let the color develop but to eliminate the scent entirely before you go out!

9.)  Yves St Laurent Touche de Eclat Concealer ($40.00, Amazon.com)

Since around the year 2000, the internet isn’t the only major revolution:  Concealers and foundations have also been evolving, with more line-filling silicones, less ingredients that look like spackle upon drying, and a new array of light-reflecting particles. Of the new generation, Yves St Laurent Touche de Eclat is the best I’ve found, with a thick formula that blends well, glides on the skin like a cream, and feels luxurious on the skin.  Best of all, it has tiny light reflective particles that make you look flawless.  It’s perfect for the winter months when it seems new cracks are present on everyone’s skin – this is your best bet for concealing each and every one of ‘em!

10.)  Eucerin Daily Body Wash with Cleansing Oil ($18.69, Amazon.com)

What I love about Eucerin Daily Body Wash with Cleansing Oil most is that soybean oil is the main ingredient.  Soy is one of those amazing ingredients that we simply don’t hear enough about.  First of all, soy contains many nutrients that are beneficial for the skin, including essential fatty acids, isoflavones, lecithins, mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids, saponins, phytosterols, phytic acid, vitamins and minerals.  Second, soy contains the potent isoflavone genistein, which has been shown in independent research studies to exhibit both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, which together increase the firmness, elasticity, and suppleness of skin.  Lastly, it has been reported in this 2000 study in the journal Dermatology that human trials demonstrated lightening of hyperpigmentation after use of soybean extract for two weeks.

Yet why I love Eucerin Daily Body Wash with Cleansing Oil is that it is soothing, non-drying, and hydrating to the skin.  It’s a great treatment for many patients with eczema.  The only problem for some is the smell, which isn’t too bad, but it’s not exactly Bath and Body Works either.  I recommend giving it a try at a location with a great return policy, like Rite Aid.

Ingredients:  Glycine Soja (Soybean Oil), MIPA-Laureth Sulfate, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Laureth-4, Cocamide DEA, Poloxamer 101, Laureth-9, Lanolin Alcohol, Water, Citric Acid, Diammonium Citrate, Propyl Gallate, BHT.

11.)  Dr. Brandt Microdermabrasion Body Scrub ($35.00, Amazon.com)

Winter may be a harsh for the skin, but the forced skin cover-up also makes it a prime time for eradicating farmer’s tans and patchy dry skin.  Enter Dr. Brandt Microdermabrasion Body Scrub, with not one but two alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic acid and lactic acid), plus exfoliating crystals.  After just one use, skin feels smoother; after daily use for 6-8 weeks, your skin looks significantly younger, softer, and smoother.  It’s truly transformative, and I highly recommend it.  Bonus points if you apply any of the body lotions listed above to slightly moistened skin after your shower!

Bottom Line

Winter can be naturally harsh for the skin, there’s no doubt about that.  Thankfully, however, there are an array of very hydrating, soothing, exfoliating and concealing products to help you not only make it through these difficult months, but actually look better come springtime.

What are your favorite winter products?  Tell me all about it in Comments below!

Is Petrolatum Safe to Use?

January 6th, 2012

We got an email from a reader named Roldana who wanted to know about petrolatum. Here is a portion of her email.

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Does a Tinted Moisturizer Provide More Sun Protection?

January 5th, 2012

Thanks to requests from several readers, the FutureDerm daily question is back!

Here is today’s question:

Dear Nicki,

Does a tinted moisturizer provide more SPF than a non-tinted moisturizer?

Sincerely,
Sandra

Dear Sandra,

Honestly, yes, but the amount of sun protection gained is trivial.  The reason for the increase is that darker pigments will always absorb light somewhat.  This is why, for instance, those of African descent may have a natural SPF of up to 15 in their skin (The Journal of Steroid Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, 2007).   The higher melanin (pigment) production within darker skin merits a higher natural amount of UV absorption.

Still, the amount of sun protection gained with a tinted moisturizer is minimal.  In the average nickel-sized application of moisturizer, most women are getting only about 60-80% the sun protection listed on the bottle. This is determined by the fact that most dermatologists recommend applying 1/4-1/3 a teaspoon of sunscreen (1.23-1.62 mL) to the face, but most foundation applications are approximately 1 mL. (For instance, there are an estimated 30 uses in a 30 mL bottle of foundation.)

So even if a full portion of a tinted moisturizer provided an SPF of 15 more than a non-tinted one (which it does not), you would only achieve an SPF of 9-11 from it anyway.  What’s more, the likely increase is more like an SPF of 1-2, which means you’re getting less than 1% more sun protection.

Hope this helps,
Nicki

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Photo source:  e.l.f. Studio Face Swatches, originally uploaded by Mad Tofu.