Good Skin Care Reviews

Hi! I have a question on nasolabial folds.. Are there any products that can help in making them less pronounced? Or are there any ingredients that we should look for in creams/serums etc. that can maybe help in “lifting” these folds? Thank you so much! -Francesca

Dear Francesca,

There are three “tiers” of treatment in dermatology for nasolabial folds, tiered according to price and availability.  They are:

Top Tier:  Surgical correction 

Some nasolabial folds are greatly helped by a mid-facelift, as shown here. Source: Dr. Scott Spiro.

Not surprisingly, the most long-lasting and effective treatment for nasolabial folds is plastic surgery.  The three procedures conducted most often to correct nasolabial folds are the mid-facelift, cheek implants, and nasolabial fold excision:

• If your cheeks are sagging, a mid-facelift will likely be recommended, as this procedure lifts nose-to-mouth nasolabial folds as well as drooping cheeks.
• If you would like more facial contouring, a small cheek implant often softens the upper part of the nasolabial folds, while giving more definition to the face.
• If you have severe nasolabial folds, a nasolabial fold excision may be your best bet. The nasolabial folds are literally removed from your face and the area is sutured afterwards.

Middle Tier:  Fillers and/or Botox

By far, the most common treatment for nasolabial folds is a hyaluronic acid filler.  There are three main classes:

Patient treated with a temporary hyaluronic acid filler, Juvederm, for nasolabial folds. Source: Moore Eye Clinic.

• Temporary hyaluronic acid fillers, such as Restylane, Juvéderm, and Perlane, are typically injected into the mid-to-deep layers of the skin to plump up nasolabial folds.  Results typically last 9-12 months.  While price varies by region, expect to pay upwards of $900 for this option (typically about $450 per syringe, and two will usually be needed).
• Collagen stimulators, such as Radiesse and Sculptra Aesthetic, are for patients with less severe nasolabial folds.  Think of Radiesse and Sculptra as best for gently rounding out an aging face that has been gradually losing volume for years.  Results will last 6 to 12 months, and expect to pay a bit more, upwards of $1000, for this option.
• Permanent fillers, such as Artefill, have the advantage of being, well, permanent.  In addition, Artefill in particular has been FDA approved for use in the nasolabial folds.  So why am I mentioning it last?  The truth of the matter is, it is hard to correct potential complications as a result of using Artefill, so be careful in selecting your doctor or aesthetician.  Make sure s/he has done the procedure before, particularly in the nasolabial folds, a region in which it is difficult to get the right symmetry.  Ask to see photos of befores and afters.  Another caveat:  Artefill costs over twice as much as the other options, about $2100 and over for the average.

Bottom Tier:  Retinoids and peptides, Silicones

Even if you can’t afford more than $100, don’t fret:  Scientifically-backed solutions are available in skin care products.  Granted, these products will not typically produce the same results as the surgical procedures, but they also come with a far lower price tag – and far less risk.

I'm a huge fan of Green Cream Level 9. It's really potent, so you may want to work up with lesser levels first!

Consider Retin-A or topical over-the-counter retinol creams:  According to research by Fisher et. al, retinoids are effective in preventing and treating the collagen loss caused by years of cumulative sun damage.  Fisher et. al also demonstrated that application of tretinoin (a form of retinoid found in prescription Retin-A) stops matrix metalloproteinase genes from starting their collagen-degrading activities.   So I highly recommend Retin-A.  If, however, you are interested in over-the-counter retinol treatments, I love Neutrogena Healthy Skin with <0.025% retinol, Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 or Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 with 0.5% and 1.0% retinol, respectively, and Green Cream Level 3, Green Cream Level 6, and Green Cream Level 9 with 0.3%, 0.6%, and 0.9% retinol, respectively.

You may also want to consider glycolic acid treatments in the area.  According to a 1998 study in Dermatological Surgery, glycolic acid treatments increase skin cells’ production of collagen better than other alpha hydroxy acids, including lactic acid or malic acid. However, if you’re deciding between prescription-strength retinoids and over-the-counter glycolic acid peels, you may want to choose the prescription retinoid:  According to a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study, it was found that 0.05% all-trans-retinoic acid was more effective than 10% glycolic acid (a concentration found in at-home treatments) in treating signs of aging.

Silicones make a fast mid-grade solution!

Finally, no matter what, look for skin care products that contain silicones for use in the nasolabial area.  These products temporary “fill” the area, making it look more cosmetically appealing.  I like Too Faced Cosmetic Wrinkle Injection ($26.95, Amazon.com).  Though its ingredients aren’t going to make you start producing collagen like the injectables Radiesse or Sculptra Aesthetic, the product’s high concentration of silicones will still temporarily “fill in” your wrinkles, and also provide a more firm, solid canvas on which to apply your concealer and foundation.  Always a plus!

Bottom Line

The “right” treatment for your nasolabial folds comes down to your penchant for spending money and risk-taking.  Those high in both categories are likely to get surgery, whereas those on the opposite end of the spectrum should use Retin-A, get regular glycolic acid peels, and use a cosmetic product designed to be a filler with silicones as well.

That said, most people choose the hyaluronic acid fillers right now, as these procedures have a high degree of satisfaction with a relatively low risk if you choose an experienced physician or aesthetician.

What are your thoughts on nasolabial fold treatments, and wrinkle treatments in general?  Let us know in Comments!

About the author:  FutureDerm.com proudly welcomes Cheryl Johnson to our staff as our weekly Contributing Fragrance Expert.  For more, please visit our About page.

For the super feminine Mom who’s beauty glows from the inside out, this Floral Woody Amber scent embodies the aura of a modern woman. The bottle was inspired by the beauty and the lines of Baccarat crystal, when the atomizer is pressed, the bottle beautifully illuminates for 15 seconds.

It premiered in April 2012 at Kohl’s nationwide at $65.00 for 2.5oz/75ml  $65.00.  The body lotion is also available for $27.50.

The Notes

The fragrance breaks down as follows:

Top:    Bergamot, Mandarin, Cypress
Mid:    Orange Flower, Muguet des Bois, Cassia Flower
Base:  Sandalwood, Amber Sultan, Vanilla, Vetiver, Patchouli, Cashmere Musk

Below is a quote from Jennifer about this new fragrance:

“Glowing is such a clean fragrance. That’s what I’ve always been about. I like soapy, clean smells. This is a very woodsy scent. So it’s not exactly what I created 10 years ago — it’s the evolution of that. At the essence, it’s still natural, earthy, clean and real, but a little different side of that. It’s the woodsy side of it, which I think is kind of New York-y, darker and sexier”, Jennifer told Women’s Wear Daily.

Cheryl’s Expert Take:

The bottle itself is nice: it feels luxe, with the exception of the top, which feels a bit inexpensive in comparison to the rest of the bottle.  I am also not a fan of the gimmicky glow of the bottle when you spray it, though others may like this.

I'm not a fan of this iridescence.

The initial scent is very strong floral and powdery, but quickly dries down to a fresh clean scent. I am reminded of a walk in the springtime, with the scent of fresh cut grass and flowers beginning to bloom. It is very feminine, most definitely not a unisex fragrance at all. I think it has a youthful quality to it, though still somehow comes across as sophisticated to my nose.

After about two hours of wear, I could still easily smell the scent around me without directly sniffing the pulse points I sprayed it on, but the lingering scent was very muted and powdery and a bit soapy, but pleasant. After approximately 5 hours of wear I could barely detect the scent on myself without sniffing deeply where I had sprayed it.  So as far as staying power, it will take you to about the mid point of an average day without feeling like you need to respray.

Insider tip:  You can also make your fragrance last longer by applying a very small amount of Vaseline or unscented body lotion on your pulse points before spraying your perfume.

The scent is appropriate for day or night, and definitely for warm weather wear. I would not feel uncomfortable using this scent as an everyday signature scent both around town with the kids, or on a date with my husband and is perfectly acceptable in the office as well.

The most prevalent top note on this fragrance is Bergamot:

Effects: Refreshing and uplifting
Scent: Sweet, Spicy

The most prevalent mid note is Orange Flower:

Effects: Refreshing, Relaxing

Scent: Fresh, Citrus

The most prevalent base note is Sandalwood:

Effects: Warming, Relaxing
Scent: Woody, Sweet, Exotic

Within the base is a essential oil I was not very familiar with Vetiver:

Effects: Relaxing

Scent: Heavy, Woody, Earthy

I think this is what contributed to me saying that it reminded me of a Spring walk- the earthy woody quality of the Vetiver.

Do you note a pattern here? All of the most prevalent notes of this fragrance are refreshing, uplifting and relaxing- I definitely feel those qualities came through in the overall aroma of this wonderful scent.  Definitely worth a buy if you are looking for a fresh, modern, highly feminine fragrance!

Well, it’s been quite a week here at FutureDerm, and in the best way possible.  We’ve got exciting news to announce soon (but we’re staying mum about it for the next week or so!), and we were happy to introduce Courtney as our new cosmetics writer.  I’m looking forward to having some salmon and a Riesling (just one, it’s not red and good for your skin, I know) tonight at one of my favorite places, McCormick & Schmick’s.  I mean, seriously. To.  Die.  For.

Image source

So, dear reader, I leave you tonight with delicious images of salmon and these excellent blog posts of the week:

• Christine at 15 Minute Beauty Fanatic compares the Clarisonic, Olay, Neutrogena, and ProActiv Cleansing Brushes (really informative!)
• Elsie at A Beautiful Mess teaches you how to do a pretty cascade braid in the back of your head(I admit, I might still need some assistance, but it’s a great guide nonetheless!)
  

  Maybe I'm watching too much Game of Thrones, but I just adore this simple cascade braid. So simple and pretty. Source: A Beautiful Mess Blog

• Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D. of The Skin Guru shares her favorite Beautiful (Beauty) Gifts from Japan (Now that nearly everything in America is going natural or organic, I might have to go to Asia to get my high-tech skin care products too!)
• Moxie at Moxie Reviews shares Rockstar Teeth Whitening (Put your sunglasses on, there is a blinding difference!)

Until next week…

Love,
Nicki

I spent 10 days in South Korea last month and even though I wasn’t there on business, I couldn’t help but be drawn in to the BB cream craze. BB creams are everywhere in Seoul! From the high-end shopping malls to the open-air markets, you’ll find BB cream without having to look.

…

Read Full Post

No matter how many times Mom taught us not to wait till the last minute, we still find ourselves rushing to meet deadlines, nearly missing some appointments, and, um, shopping for her at the last moment.  (!)  Thankfully, we’ve assembled the following gift guide, all with gifts available via overnight shipping on Amazon.com:

1.)  Jason Wu Orchid Rain Designer Candle ($48.00, Amazon.com).   Candles can seem like generic gifts, but this one is different.  Replete with an eco-savvy twist (i.e., soy paraffin wax, recycled cotton wick), the Jason Wu Orchid Rain Designer Candle is as beautiful and modern as the woman for whom it’s purchased.  If a candle was ever be a statement piece, this one would be it.

2.)  TRIA Hair Removal Device ($395.00, Amazon.com).  One of my new favorite devices, the TRIA Hair Removal Device is the first FDA-approved device for at-home permanent hair removal.  Employing the same laser technology used in dermatologists’ offices and medical spas, just at a lower strength, use of the TRIA Hair Removal Device once per week for three months results in reduced – if not eliminated – hair growth.  If your mother is the stick-to-it type, she’ll absolutely love this.  I got my mother one for Mother’s Day, and she was beyond thrilled!

3.)  Amazon Kindle ($79.00, Amazon.com).  I’m admittedly still the old-school type who likes the look and feel of an actual book (I’m a sucker for typefont, what can I say!), but I’ve started to transition to the Kindle.  I like it just because I can purchase 2-3 bestsellers for the cost of one hardcover, and I still have change left over to buy my favorites when they come out in softcover form.  For this price – the lowest I’ve seen – it’s definitely worth a shot, especially if your Mom reads as much as mine does!

4.)  Sterling silver heart pendant with birthstones ($39.95, Amazon.com).  This sterling silver charm comes with 12 birthstones.  You can display up to 5 inside, representing your the birth month of your mother, father, siblings, and other loved ones.  It’s a heartfelt personalized gift (no pun intended), and I think many mothers would appreciate this as a gesture if not as a pretty piece of jewelry.

5.)  ELAYDA Continuous Results skin care system ($129.99, Amazon.com).  Normally I am against giving skin care as a gift, because it is difficult to determine the right products for someone’s skin type or ailments.  Yet the ELAYDA system is great because it contains retinol, a universal anti-ager, and does so in a step-wise system that gradually increases as the recipient uses the products.  Many of my readers have had great results from the system, and while I have yet to try it, the ingredients suggest to me these comments are fully justified!

6.)  SPA Finder Gift Card ($50.00, Amazon.com).  Gift cards can at times seem a bit flippant or inconsiderate: “I didn’t take the time to pick out a gift for you, so I got you this,” especially if the gift card is for a store or service the recipient doesn’t particularly like.  But a spa gift card can only say, “You deserve to be pampered.”  It’s definitely a quick gift that practically gets an automatic seal of approval!

7.)  My Mom, Style Icon ($12.89, Amazon.com).  Considering the fact that you’re reading a beauty blog right now, and they say “The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree,” your Mom will enjoy this hardcover book featuring over 200 color photographs of stylish mothers through decades of American culture.  It’s definitely a fun read.  P.S. – Don’t forget to inscribe it!  Love, Nicki  :-)

About the author:  John Su is a Weekly Contributing Writer to FutureDerm.com.  John is an established skin care expert and aspiring dermatologist.   He also runs a blog, The Triple Helix Liaison, dedicated to providing unbiased, meaningful, and insightful information about skin care. For his full bio, please visit our About page.

Over the past two weeks, we’ve elucidated the differences between various classes of hydroxy acids (HAs) and established their mechanisms of action. But we have yet to explain and rationalize away some of the misplaced stereotypes of HAs and their entailing effects. A clear understanding of these misconceptions is crucial when finding and recommending products for yourself and others.

Misconception #1: Salicylic Acid (SA) is a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA).

Obagi Clenziderm Cleanser contains 2% salicyclic acid.

I’m sure many of you have noticed in Parts I and II, that I made a distinction between SA and BHAs. Like I said in Part I, SA is characterized by its functional groups being attached to an aromatic benzene ring, rather than a linear carbon chain like those seen in BHAs. This means that SA is not only structurally different from BHAs, but also physiologically so.

But how did this misconception arise? Most likely, SA was marketed as a BHA when actual BHA products were introduced to the industry, in order to establish a sense of validity. After all, most people wouldn’t recognize the subtle technicalities of chemical nomenclature. In this case, the confusion revolves around the fact that the carbons of aromatic (think cyclic) compounds like SA are given Arabic numerals, rather than the Greek letters given to those of non-aromatic (think linear) compounds like BHAs.

These days, while SA being categorized as a BHA is a misnomer, the misconception is so widespread that even dermatologists refer to SA as a BHA. For them, it’s SA’s many therapeutic benefits that are important, rather than semantic “correctness.”

Misconception #2: Only the concentration of an HA product matters.

While it’s easy to oversimplify skin care products and say that an 8% HA cream is more potent than a 10% HA one, several other factors contribute to the efficacy of an HA product: the pKa of the acid, the pH of the vehicle, and the vehicle itself.

Don't be scared off by the math: John explains it here.

pKa is the acid dissociation constant (Ka) on a logarithmic scale. Ka is a number that indicates the strength of an acid in solution (vehicle), which is determined by how much an acid dissociates. This further indicates how much of the free and salt forms of the acid develop. Only the free form of the acid causes exfoliation and is physiologically significant. Note that pKa is used in place of Ka because the latter cannot be easily compared to the pH of a solution. But pKa in itself is meaningless without Ka.

The pH of a solution goes hand-in-hand with the pKa of an acid, because the pH of a solution is irrelevant without knowledge of the pKa of the acid present. Keeping in mind that only the free form of the acid is active, here’s how pH and pKa interact:

• When the pH = pKa, that signifies that equal amounts of the free and salt forms of the acid are present in solution (50/50).
• When the pH > pKa, that signifies that more of the salt form, and less of the free form of the acid are present in solution.
• When the pH < pKa, that signifies that less of the salt form, and more of the free form of the acid are present in solution.

Depending on what you’re looking for in an HA product, one of these scenarios may be more desirable than another.

Finally, the characteristics of a vehicle are the most difficult to enumerate and measure because so many factors contribute to how well they work with any given HA. Generally, the best rule of thumb to remember when determining efficacy is that the less viscous a vehicle is, the more effective the HA will be and vice versa: the more viscous a vehicle is, the less effective the HA will be. Therefore, liquid and gel HA products tend to be more potent than lotion or cream ones.

Misconception #3: All HAs make the skin more sensitive to UV light and consequently, to carcinogenesis.  

This idea comes from the logic that, because HAs induce exfoliation and thin the stratum corneum, they will allow UVR to penetrate more deeply, given that there will be less layers of dead cells to halt that UVR. Unfortunately, like most things, it is more complicated than that.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), particularly glycolic acid (GA) (being the smallest and therefore, most deeply penetrating HA), have been shown to indirectly photosensitize the skin and make it more prone to pigmentation (1). However, the thinning of the stratum corneum cannot completely account for the reasons behind such photosensitization. In fact, studies reveal that it’s more about the fact that GA smoothes the skin, which alters its ability to scatter and absorb UVR (2), rather than stratum corneum thickness.

That same study (2), which used cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs), erythema, and sunburn cells (keratinocytes that have undergone apoptosis) as biomarkers for UVR-induced damage, also tested SA in addition to GA. It found that SA does not photosensitize the skin. In fact, both the vehicle and salicylic acid groups resulted in LOWER amounts of CPDs than the untreated group, which suggest that SA may actually have photoprotective characteristics. Several others studies also suggest this concept. However, the exact mechanism isn’t fully understood. Some studies indicate that it’s because SA, being a salicylate, may act as a sunscreen via direct UVR absorption (3). Remember that several commonly used chemical sunscreens like homosalate, are actually part of the salicylate family of compounds. Other studies indicate that the anti-inflammatory properties of SA via inhibition of the mitogen activated protein-kinases (MAPK) cascade and that of the cyclooxygenase pathway, allow less erythema (a biomarker of UVR-induced damage) to present itself (4).

Ultimately, AHAs do slightly make the skin more sensitive, while SA does not; it may even be photoprotective. But does that mean that over time, AHAs like GA promote carcinogenesis, and SA does the opposite? Fortunately, a study that involved a 10% GA solution, with a pH of 3.5 applied for 40 weeks, did not show any elevation in the photocarcinogenesis induced by UVR (5). So really, the photosensitizing effects of AHAs are very, VERY slight. But regardless, you should be wearing sunscreen anyways! That same study (5), also suggested a photoprotective effect of topically-applied SA, which follows the trend we saw with the other studies. Granted 4% of SA was used in the study, which is higher than what’s typically seen in OTC products. But still, it’s a positive indication.

With all of that in mind, perhaps it’s clearer now why I recommend people to use SA products during the day, and AHA ones at nighttime.

I hope you all learned something from this! Stay tuned for Part IV, which will include product recommendations for all four different HAs mentioned in Part II. Speaking of which, LHA and Gluconolactone being relatively new, don’t have much research pertaining to interactions with UVR. All the more reason for them to be further studied! Don’t forget to enter my brush giveaway, which closes in less than a week (http://thetriplehelixliaison.wordpress.com/2012/05/07/win-an-assortment-of-brushes-v-0-02/)!

Links/References:

(1)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10906645

(2)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2791365/

(3)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1676212

(4)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12106797

(5)   http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/htdocs/LT_rpts/tr524.pdf

Other Posts You Might Enjoy:

• Hydroxy Acids Part I:  What are Hydroxy Acids?
• Hydroxy Acids Part II:  The Differences Between Glycolic Acid, Salicyclic Acid, Lipohydroxy Acid and Glucolactone
• The 12 Most Shocking Facts about Skin Care in 2012
  
• The 5 Most Common Skin Care Mistakes Even Experts Make
  
• Do Skin Care Supplements Really Work?
• What Helps the Skin More: Eating or Topically Applying a Key Ingredient?
• Is Ethanol in Skin Care Safe?
  

Visit FutureDerm.com on Facebook and Twitter!

Courtney, better known as Phyrra, is a writer and beauty blogger in Tampa, Florida. She is well-known for her in-depth makeup reviews with lots of color swatches, and is a color expert.  She loves makeup, standard poodles, writing and gaming. Phyrra is a beauty blogger at Phyrra.net and contributing writer to MyBeautyBunny.com.  We are happy to introduce her as a weekly contributor!

Golds may look hard to wear. Yet, when worn properly, they are one of the most universally flattering types of eyeshadow out there!

Golds. I absolutely love gold eyeshadow! There’s nothing quite like brightening your eyes with a bit of gold. I see golds as being something of a neutral and there’s at least one shade that everyone can wear.

However, some people are unsure of how to wear gold, so I’ve got some tips on how to wear golds! I’ve got gorgeous golds, complimentary mattes, and refined highlighters to show you how to put together a gold look that you can wear without worry.

First, the products:
Fyrinnae Shenanigans, BftE Salted Caramel, Fyrinnae Book of the Dead, Silk Naturals Bareback, and Meow Santa Honey

These are all loose gold eyeshadow colors (with the exception of Bareback, which is a matte crease) that I find exceptionally beautiful. I think that Santa Honey would look fantastic on darker complexions, while Salted Caramel and Book of the Dead are stunning on lighter complexions. However, I do believe everyone can wear these shades.

Inglot 7, Inglot 43, Flirt! Vanilla Truffle, MAC Soft Brown, MAC Handwritten, Makeup Geek Glamorous, Makeup Geek Purely Naked

Some colors from TheBalm Nude ‘tude palette.

Sultry, Sexy and Sleek.

Finally, the last group of products included are:

Urban Decay Midnight Cowgirl, Urban Decay Half-baked, Tarina Tarantino Jasper, Tarina Tarantino Agate, Illamasqua Heroine, (not pictured is tarte the Bright Side Duo)

All of the colors are swatched on my bare skin in the photos. You can intensify your eyeshadow colors by using an eyeshadow primer such as Too Faced Shadow Insurance. You can mattify colors by using a primer such as Urban Decay Eden. You can mute colors by using a base such as MAC Paint Pot in Bare Study. The other benefit to using a primer is that your color will stay around longer and remain creaseless.

While you could certainly use any of these colors as a wash on the lid, I think that Midnight Cowgirl or 7 would be exceptionally pretty for just an added sparkle to brighten your eyes.

Salted Caramel, Book of the Dead, Half-Baked, Santa Honey, Glamorous and 43 are great for lid shades.

Shenanigans would make for a dazzling gold liner if you wanted to just line your eyes for a stunning effect

I’ve got several mattes here that are perfect to coordinate with these golds. For more natural contour shades you can try Bareback, Heroine, Vanilla Truffle, Sultry, Purely Naked or Soft Brown.

You can choose to have a more dramatic crease with Sultry, Sexy, Sleek, Handwritten or Shenanigans.

By using a gold on the lid and a matte in the crease you can create an appropriate look for day or night. The matte lid contrasts with the gold to create a more sophisticated look.

Since you’re using a metallic on your lid, you really want a subtle and refined highlight shade. I would recommend using either a matte highlight shade or a subtle highlight like Jasper, Agate, day, or night.

Some possible combinations:

• Salted Caramel on the lid, Bareback in the crease, day to highlight
• Book of the Dead on the lid, Handwritten in the crease, night to highlight
• 7 on the lid, Sleek in the crease, Agate to highlight
• 43 on the lid, Heroine in the crease, Jasper to highlight
• Vanilla Truffle as a wash on the lid and crease, Shenanigans wet as a liner, day to highlight under the eyebrows and at the inner corner of the eye
• Midnight Cowgirl as a wash on the lid and crease, Jasper to highlight
• Santa Honey on the lid, Sleek or Sexy in the crease, night to highlight
• Glamorous on the lid, Purely Naked in the crease, day to highlight
• Half-Baked on the lid, Soft Brown in the crease, Agate to highlight

Truly the combinations are endless! If you don’t have these colors, you can shop your makeup stash! Choose a gold color that you like and apply it to your lid. Choose a matte crease color that works as a contour for your skintone, a shade like Soft Brown is very popular. You can use a transitional color to blend out the edge of the crease color on your browbone, usually this shade should be a matte color that matches your skintone. For a highlight, apply the color right under your eyebrows and at the inner corner of your eye. This will brighten your eyes.

Now you know how you can incorporate golds into your daily makeup routine! What do you think? Will you give golds a try?

About the author:  FutureDerm.com is proud to introduce Dr. Hanan Taha, M.D., on our staff as a Contributing Writer. Dr. Taha received her MD from Kuwait University in 2002, and a master’s degree in Dermatology from the University of Alexandria in 2010.  She also runs a blog in Arabic dedicated to spreading the knowledge about dermatology and cosmetic dermatology in a simple, concise manner (www.elbashra.com).  For her full bio, please visit our About page.

For centuries, we relied on natural sources as moisturizers such as vegetable oils, butter, or wax. The art of moisturizer manufacturing started only about a century ago, and is still progressing to this day.⁽¹⁾

Today, we can classify moisturizers into three classes or “generations”: occlusive, humectant, and reparative.

First generation or occlusive moisturizers: these coat the skin and prevent trans-epidermal water loss. Examples include petrolatum, mineral oil, triglycerides, sunflower oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, evening primrose oil and olive oil. The bad thing about them is that they are messy and not very cosmetically appealing. So you can’t rely on them if you’re going to work or a party. However they are very helpful in severe dryness. Since they are heavy, I like using them in the winter and at bedtime.

Second generation or humectant moisturizers: these absorb water from the atmosphere and also from the lower layers of the skin, making the upper skin that is touchable, more moisturized. Examples include glycerin, glycerol, sorbitol, urea, and lactic acid. The bad thing about them is that sometimes they can actually be drying rather than moisturizing, plus in higher concentrations they tend to be irritating to the skin.⁽²⁾ Since they are lighter and cosmetically more appealing, I like using them in the summer and in day time.

For optimal results, most available moisturizers in the market contain a mixture of both occlusive and humectant ingredients.

Third (or New) generation moisturizers have both occlusive and humectant properties, but they also work by repairing the damaged skin barrier and replenishing the lost barrier components. So they don’t just treat the symptom (dryness) but also treat the cause (damaged barrier).

Third generation moisturizers are useful if you are a long term sufferer of dry skin, due to excessive hand washing, exposure to dry, cold weather, or environmental or chemical irritants. It is also helpful if you have atopy, eczema or psoriasis.

One example is Bioderma’s Atoderm PP cream, containing vitamin B3 (or vitamin PP), which studies have shown can repair the skin barrier, improve skin moisture, reduce inflammation, blotchiness, hyperpigmentation, wrinkling, and even inhibit skin cancer formation. ^(3,4)

Another 2 options are IMPRUV cream, and Eucerin Professional Repair Extremely Dry Skin Lotion, containing ceramides, which also play an important role in skin barrier function. ⁽⁵⁾

Cetaphil RestoraDerm Skin Restoring Moisturizer contains both B3 and ceramides.

Hyaluronic acid has long been used as an injectable filler. Now it is being introduced as a component in creams as well (e.g. Atopiclair) to restore hydration to the skin, since it can retain up to 1000 times its weight in water.⁽⁶⁾

The entire Eucerin Redness Relief Line contains a licorice extract from the hard but fun to read plant, Glycyrrhiza inflata (try saying it ten times real fast!). This works to both repair the skin barrier and reduce skin redness,^(7,8) so if you have rosacea and dry skin, this might be the line for you. Licorice root extracts have countless other benefits, but that’s for another day!

Finally, Palmitamide monoethanolamine (present in Mimyx cream) is also speculated to improve barrier function and decrease inflammation, which makes it helpful in dermatitis. ⁽⁹⁾

Bottom line:

Advances are constantly being made. The dream is to treat stubborn dryness such as seen in eczema, but more research is needed. If you try OTC products and your skin is still dry and itchy, maybe it is time to see your dermatologist.

Good luck always! Don’t forget, if you know someone who’d like to read about skin in Arabic, tell them to stop by my blog at elbashra.com!

Sources:

1-     TE. Weber et al. Hand and Foot Moisturizers. In: Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures 2010; Chapter 17: 130-7.

2-     http://www.skintherapyletter.com/2001/6.13/2.html

3-     W Gehring. Nicotinic Acid/ Niacinamide and the Skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2004; 3(2): 88-93.

4-     DL. Bissett et al. Topical Niacinamide Reduces Yellowing, Wrinkling, Red Blotchiness, and Hyperpigmentation Spots in Aging Facial Skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2004; 26(5): 231-8.

5-     JM. Jungersed et al. Ceramides and Barrier Function in Healthy Skin. Acta Dermato- Venereologica 2010; 90: 350-3.

6-     HE John et al. Perspectives in the Selection of HA for Facial Wrinkles and Ageing Skin. Patient Preference and Adherence 2009; 3: 225-30.

7-     J. Emer. Botanicals and Anti-inflammatories: Natural Ingredients for Rosacea. Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery 2011; 30 (3): 148-55.

8-     L. Kolbe et al. Anti-inflammatory Efficacy of Licochalcone A: Correlation of Clinical Potency and In-Vitro Effects. Archives of Dermatological Research 2006; 298 (1): 23-30.

9-     ZD Draelos. New Treatments for Repairing Impaired Epidermal Barrier: Skin Barrier Repair Creams. Clinics in Dermatology 2012; 30 (3): 345-8.

Acne, a photo by Jason Craft on Flickr.

I have acne scars on my cheeks, ice pick type scars – not discoloration, and would like to smooth them a bit. I do not want to go to the dermatologist but instead would like to find an at home treatment. Do you know of anything that would help these that I could do at home?

Sincerely,
Hannah
Dear Hannah,
The best treatments for acne scarring are, unfortunately, available from a dermatologist’s office.  However, with time and effort, there are several treatments that will make a difference at home.

As with in-office treatments, at-home treatments vary for raised, “ice-pick” type acne scars versus flat, “saucer-like” acne scars (Acne: Diagnosis and Treatment, 2000):

Non-raised Scars: Microdermabrasion, bovine collagen (available only from a dermatologist), local excision (available only from a dermatologist)

The advice makes perfect sense. According to Dr. Audrey Kunin, M.D., microdermabrasion is only used for flat “saucerlike” acne scars, as microdermabrasion superficially sandpapers the skin, sloughing away the surface layers. This means microdermabrasion is not to be used for jagged ice-pick type scars or raised scars, as the irregularity would not be improved, and could actually be made worse.

Still, microdermabrasion can make a world of difference for flat acne scars.  Once reserved for spas and salons, you can now purchase your own microdermabrasion at home kit for a reasonable price.  These kits often come with their own exfoliating wand, cleanser, and moisturizer. They’re great for removing dead skin, helping with acne, and massaging away fine lines – but they can also be rough on sensitive skin, so proceed slowly. Check out some microdermabrasion products online at retailers like ShopNBC.

Raised Scars: Use Retinoic acid (available only by prescription), steroid cream (available only by prescription), intracisional triamcislone (available from a dermatologist)

Retinoic acid is one of the only agents that has been shown to reduce the appearance of raised or hypertrophic scars. In one study in the British Journal of Dermatology, the appearance of scars was reduced by 77-79% with daily application of 0.05% retinoic acid. The results were confirmed as retinoic acid has been shown to produce a decrease in fibroblast collagen production and proliferation within the dermis of the skin, resulting in less scar formation (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1986).

Unfortunately you are not as likely to experience the same results from over-the-counter retinol, which is about twenty times less potent than retinoic acid (Clinics in Dermatology, 2001). Considering the fact that an OTC product like  Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream contains only about 0.025% retinol (from my best guess), imagine what other, more potent formulas could do! Some of my favorites of these include Green Cream Level 6 (with 0.6% retinol) and Skinceuticals 1.0 (with 1.0%) retinol. Keep in mind, however, that retinol can cause redness, flaking, and itching upon initial use, and should be kept to use every other day until your skin comes to tolerate it. As always, however, check with your dermatologist first.

Bottom Line

Scarring is a serious business, and dermatologists have many more tools at their disposal than we do at home to deal with it. Nevertheless, if you have a raised scar – i.e., keloid scar, or an “ice-pick” type scar like Hannah – you cannot use microdermabrasion and would benefit more from over-the-counter retinol. Conversely, if you have a flat scar, you would benefit more from microdermabrasion. At any rate, while other agents, such as alpha hydroxy acids and salicyclic acid, may refine the skin, these have not been documented to improve scarring like retinoic acid for raised scars and microdermabrasion for flat scars. As always, consult with your dermatologist!

This is Logan, my 8 year old. Yesterday, after he got off the school bus, he saw his brother Miles and I playing outside.  Deciding whether or not he wanted to join us, he took a look at the posts on my deck, measured them out and seemed to be concentrating rather hard.

…

Read Full Post