Good Skin Care Reviews

If you haven’t been with us since the beginning of our BB Cream series, here’s what we’ve talked about so far.

• What is BB Cream?
• 8 US BB Creams to Try
• 5 More US BB Creams to Try
• BB Cream Review – TonyMoly

…

Read Full Post

FutureDerm.com readers are the best.  Seriously.  Everyday, I get intelligent, insightful questions and comments from some of the sweetest, most well-informed beauty product fans on the planet.  What’s more, you gals (and guys) let me live my passion each and every day.  With that said, I’ve decided to sponsor a giveaway for a $100 Sephora gift card – something I thought every FutureDerm.com reader would love!

The drawing will be held on June 15, 2012 at 11:59 PM EST.  As a legal disclaimer, I must say the drawing is subject to all policies listed on the FutureDerm.com Policies Page.

You can enter by liking the post, the FutureDerm.com Facebook page, and following us on Twitter (one entry each), and can enter daily by answering the question on the widget below and Tweeting about the contest (one daily entry each).  Good luck to all! 

a Rafflecopter giveaway

A 2 month old goat kid in a field of capeweed (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

In some ways, I find today’s beauty industry ironic:  We live in a world where the human genome has been sequenced and technologically-advanced biological laboratories abound, and yet, we’ve turned to increasingly more natural and fewer cellularly-targeted treatments than ever before.  Even though most of our pharmaceuticals are derived from or designed to mimic the active portions of plants, many deem these as “unhealthy” and want to find a more wholesome, holistic approach.

But I digress.  Despite our scientific progress elsewhere, in the current skin care world of ‘green’ and ‘organic,’ it’s no surprise that the latest in anti-aging has come from the farm:  Goat’s milk.  Available from brands like Natural Handcrafted Soaps (shown right) and Goat Milk Stuff, goat’s milk has taken our ‘green’ world by storm due to its gently hydrating properties.

Yet there are a few misunderstandings about goat’s milk, which we will straighten out here.  First of all, the secret to goat’s milk is the lactic acid, not vitamins and minerals.  A popular alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), lactic acid is a powerful humectant.  Proof of its hydrating abilities is the fact that one of the only prescription drugs FDA approved for dry skin, LacHydrin, has lactic acid (12%) as the main ingredient.  Keep in mind, however, that any milk-containing product contains lactic acid, not just those with goat’s milk.

Goat's milk contains less vitamins and minerals than regular milk, but a different form of protein that is more easily digestible (Photo credit: Salim Virji)

Also keep in mind that goat’s milk has less vitamins and minerals than regular milk.  According to the USDA, goat’s milk is not recommended for human infants because it contains “inadequate quantities of iron, folate, vitamins C and D, thiamin, niacin, vitamin B6, and panthothenic acid to meet an infant’s nutritional needs” and may cause harm to an infant’s kidneys and could cause metabolic damage (USDA Infant Formula Feeding, 2010).  Taking it a step further, it may be wise to keep any goat’s milk products far away from children.  “Many infants are exclusively fed unmodified goat’s milk as a result of cultural beliefs as well as exposure to false online information.  Anecdotal reports from the American Academy of Pediatrics have described a host of morbidities associated with infant ingestion of goat’s milk, including severe electrolyte abnormalities, metabolic acidosis, megaloblastic anemia, allergic reactions including life-threatening anaphylactic shock, hemolytic uremic syndrome, and infections (Pediatrics, 2010).

So then why do adults get great results from goat’s milk soap?  The truth is simple and comes down to two things:  One, lactic acid.  Two, goat’s milk soaps typically also contain oatmeal.

Gotta love oatmeal! It's typically included in goat's milk soap. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Colloidal oatmeal is simply oats ground into an extremely fine powder.  It is one of the few skin care ingredients that is regulated by the U.S. FDA.  As far as calming and soothing ingredients go, colloidal oatmeal is amongst the best, improving barrier function, moisturizing, cleansing, and even containing soothing antioxidant vitamin E (Cosmetic Dermatology supplement, 2008).  Colloidal oatmeal also relieves pain and itching by inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis in a mechanism similar to that of the drug indomethacin (Cosmetic Dermatology supplement, 2008).  So when colloidal oatmeal is included in goat’s milk soap, you better believe it’s making a significant difference.

Bottom Line

Goat’s milk soap may very well leave your skin feeling calm, soothed, and hydrated.  While it is wrong to say that there are more vitamins and minerals in goat’s milk than regular milk, it is fair to say the lactic acid naturally occurring in goat’s milk and the colloidal oatmeal added to the soaps may very well leave you thinking there’s something special about it.   Overall, these are sensational products, but take extra caution that you keep your goat’s milk soap out of the reach of infants, just in case.

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When it comes to dermatologists who have helped the public better understand the true physiology of the skin, few have done it better than Dr. Howard Murad, M.D.  As a board-certified dermatologist, trained pharmacist and Associate Clinical Professor of Medicine (Dermatology) at the UCLA Geffen School of Medicine, Dr. Murad has always emphasized the importance of hydration, both internally and extnerally, for the health of the skin.

So I was really excited to hear about his new Murad Time Release Retinol Concentrate for Deep Wrinkles ($54.95, Amazon.com).  One of the truly superb releases in over-the-counter skin care for 2012, the cream features three of my all-time favorite ingredients, including retinol, peptides, and hyaluronic acid:

Time-Release Retinol

Retinol 3D structure (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Time-release retinol is nothing new, as Neutrogena released a similar technology within the past two years.  What is novel about Murad Time Release Retinol Concentrate for Deep Wrinkles is that it contains a seemingly higher concentration of time-release retinol than the Neutrogena products, resulting in faster results.

Although this 2001 study in the journal Clinics in Dermatology found over-the-counter retinol is 20 times less potent than prescription retinoic acid in the skin, over-the-counter retinol use is still recommended, as similar results can be achieved over time.  What’s more, over-the-counter retinol is an excellent option for those with sensitive skin who cannot tolerate prescription retinoids.

Matrixyl Synthe’6

Matrixyl Synthe'6 is the newest Matrixyl peptide from Sederma. (Photo credit: Sederma)

There is an impressive amount of research support for Matrixyl 3000, a combination of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl oligopeptide clinically proven to have notable collagen-stimulating properties (Bioorganic and Medical Chemistry Studies, 2010).

But just like car companies keep coming out with new models, so do cosmetic ingredient manufacturers.  The new model of peptides, so to speak, is Matrixyl Synthe’6.  A fancy name for palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Matrixyl Synthe’6 was designed by Sederma to stimulate collagen production by stimulating the 6 major constituents of the skin matrix, as well as the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) (Sederma, 2012).

The ingredient is rather new, so it is difficult to find independent, non-company-affiliated studies testing Matrixyl Synthe’6 at this time.  In vivo studies from Sederma demonstrate that, after 2 months, the forehead and crow’s feet wrinkles are visibly smoothed from the inside of the skin. Many parameters demonstrated this smoothing effect (wrinkle volume, depth, surface).  Considering the amount of research support for Matrixyl 3000, I would not be surprised if Matrixyl Synthe’6 had similar results.  Still, I won’t jump the gun in this review, and will merely say the peptide is a selling point for Murad Time Release Retinol Concentrate for Deep Wrinkles, though perhaps not the selling point.

Hyaluronic Acid

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This is a peri-articular injection of Hyaluronic Acid for ankle sprains. Keep in mind hyaluronic acid has many uses, including injectable as well as topical. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

It’s no wonder that the author of The Water Secret would include hyaluronic acid in his skin care.  One of the most highly water-binding ingredients on the skin care market, hyaluronic acid has been demonstrated to hold up to 1000 times its volume in water, as documented in the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology.

Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in connective tissue, lending strength and flexibility to the cartilage, blood vessels, and the skin.  When applied topically, it acts as a humectant, able to form multiple bonds with water molecules in the surrounding areas.  Cosmetic companies love it because it instantly makes the skin appear more hydrated.  In the long-term, other ingredients, like retinoids and peptides, are more effective, but hyaluronic acid is still a great ingredient because it provides superior moisturization.

Bottom Line

Murad Time Release Retinol Concentrate for Deep Wrinkles is one of the best releases of 2012 so far.  With a higher concentration of retinol than other time-release products I’ve seen, it’s a superior anti-ager, and with the new peptide Matrixyl Synthe’6, it’s really a great serum.  I give it a 10/10!  For best results, use it at night.

• High or optimized concentration of proven ingredients:  3/3
• Unique formulation or new technology:  3/3
• Value:  3/3
• Sunscreen:  N/A

Ingredients (Links Direct to Wikipedia)

Water (Aqua), Cyclopentasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Glycine Soja (Soybean ) Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Lauryl Lactate, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Retinol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Triethanolamine, Ceramide-3, Punica Granatum Extract, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Zinc Gluconate, Ascorbic Acid, Chitosan, Propyl Gallate, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Mica (CI 77019), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Yellow 5 (CI 19140).

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• Algenist Ultra Lightweight SPF 50 Review

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• What Is Retinol and When Should You Start Using It

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Dear Nicki,

I’m only 30, but already I’m noticing these little lines around my eyes whenever I smile.  What can be done?

-J

Dear J,

“Crow’s-feet are usually the earliest wrinkles to appear on a woman’s face,” says dermatologist Debra Price, M.D., clinical assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Miami School of Medicine.  Though sun exposure is the number-one contributor to the formation of crow’s feet, many other factors can also play a role, including smoking, squinting, and even smiling.

What’s more, crow’s feet only become accentuated with age because the structure within the skin deteriorates.  As collagen fibers lose their strength and organization, the skin loses its support and wrinkles like crow’s feet become more evident, starting out from the sides of the eyes, extending up towards the temples, and sometimes down from the top of the cheek.

As always, there are solutions available for every lifestyle and budget:

TOP TIER:  Ablative fractional and CO₂ lasers

Skin before and after CO2 laser treatment. Source: Realself.com

• Cost:  About $2500 and up
• Time of procedure:  Less than 1 hour
• Recovery time:  2 weeks
• Effects last:  May be permanent (depends on your lifestyle, UV exposure, etc.)

Ablative fractional and CO₂ lasers are the gold standard in addressing changes around the eye.

The procedure may be thought of similarly to dermabrasion or a chemical peel, except a laser removes skin layers by vaporization instead of sanding or chemicals.  At any rate, each of these treatments work by ablating, or partially abrading, the top layer of skin.  This prompts the skin cells called fibroblasts to make new collagen.  The advantage to the lasers is that they may be “focused” for cutting skin without bleeding, “defocused” for superficially removing your skin, and “ultra pulsed” for facial resurfacing.

The result?  Skin grows in plumper, less-lined, and somewhat firmer and tighter.

The Difference Between Ablative and Non-Ablative Lasers

Both an ablative and nonablative lasers have similar effects, but ablative are a lot more dramatic.  Consider how each works:

• A wounding (ablative) laser removes thin layers of skin
• A non-wounding (nonablative) laser stimulates collagen growth and tightens underlying skin

In general, non-ablative devices are great for mild to moderate wrinkling and photoaging.  Non-ablative lasers will also eliminate most acne scarring over a series of 4-6 treatments. Those effects, combined with reduced downtime, makes the non-ablative lasers so appealing.

Mid TIER:  Botox or Dysport 

Dysport treatment for crow's feet. Source: Realself.com

• Cost:  About $400 and up
• Time of procedure:  Less than 30 minutes
• Recovery time:  Minimal
• Effects last: 3-5 months

Muscle relaxers like Botox and Dysport are commonly used to treat crow’s feet.  This is because botulism toxin cleaves proteins required for the release of a neurotransmitter, acetylcholine.  This, in turn, causes a chemical denervation of striated muscles around the injected region.  While primarily used as a cosmetic treatment, Botox and Dysport can also be used to treat a slew of medical conditions, including hyperhidrosis (excessive sweating) and migraines.

A little-known fact about Botox and Dysport is that they prevent future wrinkles from forming.  This may be the result of mechanically stretching the skin (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2008).  Whatever the case, since you are under the age of 40, you may find it to be more cost-effective to “spot treat” your crow’s feet with Botox or Dysport rather than to treat your entire face with an ablative or non-ablative laser.

Keep in mind that Botox and Dysport are not be-all, end-all treatments for crow’s feet.  You can also supplement your results with injectable fillers and chemical peels.  Injectable fillers, like Restylane, to fill up the lines. Injections generally last 6-12 months, and are usually redone every 6 months. The cost is generally upwards of $500 per injection, which varies by practitioner.

Dermatologist-grade chemical peels and lasers can further stimulate collagen production, keeping the skin firm and crow’s feet production down in the future.

Last Tier:  Take an aggressive approach at home.

To quote Meg Ryan in You’ve Got Mail, “Fight, fight, fight!”

Start each day off with a multivitamin that contains vitamin C and linoleic acid, which has been recently reported in a study amongst 4000 women to reduce wrinkles. Next, apply an antioxidant serum and sunscreen or moisturizer with sunscreen, concentrating on the area around your eyes. Be careful that the formulations are tolerated well around the delicate eye area. My well-touted favorites are Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($107.00, Amazon.com) and NIA 24 Physical Sunscreen SPF 30 ($42.95, Amazon.com), but I also love the new Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 ($8.99, Drugstore.com) for ultima supremo sun protection.

During the day, Dr. Perricone also recommends that you eat a diet rich in fruits and vegetables (for antioxidant activity), salmon (for omega-3s), healthy fats (think almonds and olive oil), and full of water and green or white tea to keep skin glowing. After all, nutrition and skin care together have better results than skin care alone.

At night, use a retinoid cream, followed by a moisturizer with peptides, niacinamide, and/or antioxidants customized for your skin.  The retinoid treatment is perhaps the easiest to choose: The gold standard is prescription tretinoin, 20 times more potent than over-the-counter retinol.  But if prescription is not an option, there is 0.5% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 ($32.95, Amazon.com), 0.6% retinol in Green Cream Level 6 ($42.95, Amazon.com) 0.9% retinol in Green Cream Level 9 ($49.95, Amazon.com), and 1.0% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 ($52.00, Amazon.com). You may want to start with a lesser concentration of retinol, applied every 2-3 nights, and gradually work up to nightly use.

As for a nightly moisturizer, DMAE has been found and reported in two independent studies in The Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology and Skin Research and Dermatology to significantly firm skin in the undereye area. A product with a high concentration of DMAE is NV Perricone Vitamin C Ester Amine Face Lift ($95.00, Sephora.com), and another designed for around the eyes with slightly less DMAE is NV Perricone Advanced Eye Area Therapy ($95.00, Sephora.com).

If DMAE is too harsh for your skin, niacinamide and antioxidants have also been found to have beneficial effects against wrinkles, in various studies. My favorite moisturizer with niacinamide is Olay Regenerist, while my favorite antioxidant moisturizer is RevaléSkin Night Cream.

Once a week, in lieu of your usual nightly routine, use a glycolic acid treatment, provided again that your skin can handle it. (Consult your dermatologist if you are unsure.) Two of my favorite glycolic acid peels are MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel ($75.00 for a thirty-day supply, Sephora.com) and Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads ($45.00, Amazon.com).

Bottom Line

No matter what your lifestyle or budget, you do have the ability to get rid of crow’s feet!  What are your favorite methods?  Share in Comments!

Readers are always asking me for the best ways to save on beauty products, so I’ve decided to feature a slew of online coupons, rebates, and giveaways from my favorite beauty sites!  If readers enjoy it, we’ll make it a weekly feature each Sunday!

Here are this week’s best sales, deals, and giveaways:

Rebates

Sign up at eBates.com, and receive cash back when you shop online!  The cash back is accumulated now through July 30, and the check will be sent to you on or by August 15, 2012 (eBates Information Page).  The following percentages of cash back are available from the following beauty retailers now through May 28, 2012:

• MR. REBATES:  Proactiv (25%), Sheer Cover (25%), WEN (25%), Murad (18%), Beauty.com (12%), ULTA (12%), Clarins (10%), Prescriptives (10%), DermStore (10%), Elizabeth Arden (10%), Drugstore.com (10%), Folica (10%), Clinique (10%), Clarisonic (10%)

Free Shipping, Coupon Codes, Etc.

• BATH AND BODY WORKS:   20% off exclusive candles, wallflowers, body care, gifts, etc. with code FAVORITESCENTS, expires 4/29.
• Beauty.com:

• Benefit.com: Free shipping on $50+ purchases. Free international shipping with $125+ purchases.  Free chacha tint and mini moisture with $45+ orders with code CHACHACHA, 5/1 through 5/31.
• BLISS:  Free Essence 27 0.5 oz. mini with any Cosmetics 27 purchase of $100+ with codeMINIC27, expires 5/31.  Free Sisley Discovery Kit mini with $250+ Sisley purchase with codeSISKIT12, expires 6/30.
• BOBBI BROWN: Free shipping on $65+ orders. Free Plumberry Treatment Lip Shine SPF 15 with $65+ order with code PLUM11, expires 5/25, one time use.  Free Nougat Lipgloss with $65+ order with code GLOSS12, expires 6/30, one time use.
• DERMAdoctor:  Free shipping on any order over $50.  Sign up for the rewards program for up to 5% off.
• DRUGSTORE.COM:  Get 20% off Cetaphil skin care products at drugstore.com! Offer ends 05.28.2012.
• GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY:   Free shipping with $75+ orders + 2 samples of choice for registered members. Free shipping with any $75+ purchase with code DESIGNER10, no expiration.
• NORDSTROM:  Free shipping & free returns everyday.
• OJON: Free shipping and free returns.
• ORIGINS:  Free shipping on $50+ orders, no code necessary. Free Origins eco-friendly tote + travel-size duo of Make a Difference Hand Treatment & Peace of Mind with $30+ orders, expires 6/30.
• PHILOSOPHY:   Free shipping on $50+ orders, no code necessary.
• SAKS FIFTH AVENUE:  Coupon code IOMA2:  Free Sample of Emulsion Exfoliante Douce 1.7 oz. with any IOMA order. (Exp. 05/21/2012).  Coupon code SHISEIDO6:  Free Deluxe sample of Future Solution LX Ultimate Regenerating Serum with any $75+ Shisedo order. (Exp. 05/21/2012).
• SEPHORA:   Free Benefit Dandelion Brightening Face Powder and Lipgloss deluxe sample duo with $25+ purchase with code DANDELION, 5/15 through 5/30.  Free Sephora t-shirt with $25+ purchase with codeBEAUTEE, 5/15 through 5/30. Free Diorshow Mascara deluxe sample with $25+ purchase with code DIORLASH, 5/8 through 5/30.  Free Caudalie SOS Quenching Serum (BIs only) with $25+ purchase with code SOSERUM, 5/8 through 5/30. Free bareMineral Purely Nourishing Cream for Dry Skin with $25+ purchase with code BECREAM, expires 5/25.  Free sample of Guerlain Lip Shine in Extrait de Rose with $25+ purchase with code LIPSHINE, expires 5/22. Choose 1-4 fragrance sample bags with $25+ purchase with code 6SCENTS, expires 5/31.  Free Lancome Hypnose Instant Drama mascara deluxe sample with $25+ purchase with code DRAMA, expires 5/24.  Choose 1-2 deluxe fragrance samples with $25+ purchase with code SCENT4U, expires 5/24.  Choose 1 of 2 free Origins deluxe moisturizer samples with $25+ purchase with code EARTH12, expires 5/21.  Free Narcisco Rodriguez for Her Eau de Toilette deluxe sample spray with $25+ purchase with code 4HER, expires 5/21.  3 free Stila Eyeshadow Palette cards with $25+ purchase with code TRYSTILA, expires 5/20.  Free PTR Retinol Fusion PM deluxe sample with $25+ purchase with code PTRSERUM, expires 5/24.  Free Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Tote with purchase of 3.4 oz. EDP with code WONDER, expires 5/24.
• SKINSTORE.COM:  20% off select gift ideas under $200 with code NEW2012, expiration unknown.
• TARTE: Free shipping on $40+ orders.
• THE BODY SHOP (USA): Free Shipping on all orders over $50. (Exp. 06/30/2012)
• ULTA: $3.50 off $10+ purchase with code 72783, exclusions apply.
• YSL:  Free shipping on any order, no code necessary.

GIVEAWAYS

• Lipgloss Break
  Billion Dollar Brows Set
  Ends: June 14th
• A Diva’s Prerogative
  New Dove Clear Tone Deodorant Antiperpirant Duo
  Ends: June 12th 2012
  US only
• A Diva’s Prerogative
  Spring Mega Beauty Giveaway
  Ends June 5th, 2012
  US only
• My Newest Addiction Beauty Blog
  Minerals Mate Giveaway
  Date ending: June 3, 2012 @ 11:59PM
• myCosmeticBag
  Makeup Madness Giveaway
  Date ending: May 31, 2012 @ 11:59PM
• Stephanie Louise- All Things Beautiful
  Minerals Mate Giveaway
• The Plastic Diaries
  2nd Blogiversary Competitions Week – WIN Revlon ColorBurst Lip Butter
  International, ends June 1

High end jewelry designer David Yurman is perhaps known for his extensive collection of distinctive men’s and woman’s jewelry.  In the past few years, he has extended his line to include an impressive bridal collection, unique gift items, and eyewear.  But it is his latest endeavor- a perfume collection – that has caught our eye here at FutureDerm. His entire line can be shopped online at David Yurman.com and Amazon.com, as well as select retail stores.

About the Essence Collection

The Essence Collection includes four evocative scents, each echoing the artistry of David Yurman’s signature fine jewelry and the emotions associated with his favorite gemstones – lustrous pink tourmaline, vivid peridot, glistening citrine and sensuous amethyst. Each Essence is identified with a personal touch from Sybil Yurman—a fluid brushstroke of paint mirroring the gemstone-inspired color.

The collection was designed with layering of fragrances in mind.

“Like a piece of fine jewelry, it may be worn alone or combined with scents from the David Yurman Essence Collection to achieve a complex, artfully layered fragrance effect.”- David Yurman

David Yurman Summer Essence Review:

3.4 fl. Oz. Eau De Toilette Spray

$85.00 retail price

As with the other bottles in the collection, the design is simple and elegant, with clean lines reminiscent of his jewelry collection. I personally am drawn to anything having to do with amethyst or the color purple, so he had me at hello on this, add to that the beautiful Giselle Bundchen is David’s model for most of his line and I begin to dream that perhaps spritzing on this ultra feminine scent I will end up as beautiful as she is… we all have dreams, right?

I digress… back to the fragrance itself:

This amethyst hued perfume is ultra feminine, light, airy and sensuous. No androgyny here, you will not find your husband, boyfriend, or male significant other reaching to share this scent with you. This one is all about the ladies! This scent is so evocative of its namesake Summer Essence that for me it conjures up thoughts of a cloudless blue summer sky. Driving just to drive, inhaling deeply as you pass fields of wildflowers and stopping by a farm stand to pick up peaches, literally bursting with sweet juice.  The initial scent upon first spray is clearly of Hyacinth which is one of the top mid notes in the perfume. It finishes with an earthy note which is from the bottom note of sandalwood.

The Notes:

Top: Refreshing nashi pear, apple blossom, luscious peach nectar.

Mid: White muguet, sumptuous hyacinth, deftly wrapped orchid.

Bottom: Sensuous amber crystals, white musk, rich sandalwood.

Most prevalent top note:

Nashi pear: an asian pear variety, crisp and delicate in flavor.

The mid note has most prevalent white muguet, a flower in the same family as lily of the valley.

Most prevalent in the finish or bottom of the fragrance is the essential oil sandalwood, providing the earthy woody and sweet notes. Sandalwood oil is said to be warming and relaxing.

The scent does not linger very long at all; within three hours it was barely detectable- but I couldn’t help but sniff my skin during those three hours, this scent is truly delicious. I wore it to my son’s soccer game in the hot sun and think it would be appropriate for most activities from day to night in the office and out on the town.  I wish there was a body lotion to in the same scent to help it last longer, but as I said in my previous review you can first apply unscented body lotion or a scant amount of Vaseline to your pulse points before applying to help make the scent linger longer. I would definitely purchase this perfume if you want people to ask what you are wearing… because they will. I think it would also be fun to layer the other scents in the collection as the designer intended, making your own signature scent.

Other Scents in the Collection:

All 3.4 fl. Oz. Eau De Toilette sprays retailing at $85.00

Delicate Essence (inspired by Tourmaline): Romantic and feminine, with notes of pink pepper, lotus blossom, and sparkling orange.

Fresh Essence: (inspired by Peridot): Crisp and playful, with notes of sparkling apple, cassis, juicy red fruits and fresh greens.

Exotic Essence: (inspired by Citrine) : Mysterious and sensual, with notes of sparkling mandarin, casablance lily, rose petals and exotic woods

Wow, hard to believe another week has passed already!  I actually had walking pneumonia this past week – not fun.  Luckily, I had my two little puppies to keep me company:

This is my Yorkie, Emmie. She's 4 years old, playful, stubborn, and affectionate.

This is my other dog, Pookie. She's a 3-year-old Shih Poo. She has 3 white feet and 1 black one (the right one in the back). Her personality can only be described as sweet. She follows me everywhere.

I’ve been on antibiotics, and I actually have my voice today, so I should be 100% back on my feet by Monday, yay

Follow Friday

With that said, here are some of the top posts I’ve found on other beauty blogs I thought my readers might enjoy:

Such a bold blush! Yet Phyrra makes it work.

• The Beauty Delicacy reveals the force behind the “bird trend” in fashion
• Our own cosmetics writer, Phyrra, shows how to beautifully wear a shade of this season’s bold blush (NARS Liberté) on her own blog.
• The girls at The Beauty Department demonstrate the prettiest way to wear eyeshadows with sparkles
• For my organic lovers out there, Dr. Mao teaches how to clean without harsh chemical cleansers
• The Beauty Brains answers, “Do organic preservatives really work?”

Personal Updates

So I can’t announce from whom quite yet, but the FutureDerm triad of the blog, upcoming line of beauty products (UV Pods) and online interactive store has received an investment!  *dances, sings*  With that said, we’re going to be introducing the following changes in the coming weeks to months:

"More photos!" you said. "OK!" we responded.

• More photos.  I tend to like to hide behind the science of products and a plethora of words.  But the people have spoken, and THE PEOPLE WANT PHOTOS!  Loud and clear – got it.  So, bear with me while I master my camera, but we’re going to have more photos.  Lots of them!
• More posts.  We’re aiming for several more updates per day, so we can hit on more of your questions, product reviews, ingredient coverage, and even sales from the most popular online beauty brands and retailers.
• A daily video blog.  Coming soon!

Plus, of course, the product(s) and the store, starting this summer.

And in case you’re wondering how I am doing all of this, I took a year away from school in order to concentrate on growing the business.  Creating innovative and effective custom products, educating others on the science behind beauty products, and interacting with readers are my true passions.  My favorite books and mentors all told me that I need to seize the moment and follow my heart right now.  So I’m off to do that

Well, that’s all for now.  Take care, and remember, you can always reach me on our FutureDerm Facebook page – that’s the best and easiest way!

All the best,

The third part of our BB Cream Series is looking at the US brands that now offer BB Creams. (What is BB Cream?)

Note that many of the US BB Creams just don’t offer what the Asian BB creams do. Korean BB Creams are known for giving skin a flawless look, whitening, anti-aging, high SPF, etc..whereas many of the US BB creams act more like a tinted moisturizer. However, most of the Korean BB Creams aren’t suited for those with darker skin tones, so the US brands get props for that.

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With all of the remedies available, if your drooping eyelids bother you, they should be a thing of your past in 2012. Image source: http://www.surgicalservicesinternational.com/eyelid.htm

Dear Nicki,

The older I get, the more my eyelids seem to droop!  I was wondering what options I have and how much each costs, etc.

-Maggie

Dear Maggie,

Hooded eyelids are one of the most common signs of aging in both men and women.  With  age, there are changes in the brow bone structure as well as collagen fiber strength and arrangement, causing the soft tissue in the area to droop and hood.  The result?  Eyes that look tired, sad, or even angry.  Fortunately, it is 2012, and there are solutions for every stage of drooping eyes, as well as every budget:

Top Tier:  Blepharoplasty

Blepharoplasty performed by Dr. Paul Leong, M.D. For a full set of before and afters, please visit Real Self: http://www.realself.com/eyelid-surgery/before-and-after-photos

Blepharoplasty procedure, demonstrating the incisions on the eyelids.

• Cost:  about $1500-6000 (average $3000)
• Procedure time: 1-3 hours (average 1.5 hours)
• Recovery time: 10-14 days

Upper lid blepharoplasty is an excellent option for anyone with excess skin and no serious eye conditions.  As an added benefit, upper lid blepharoplasty may also help to minimize crow’s feet, fine lines, and wrinkles.

How It Works

In the 1.5 hour procedure, the surgeon will make a small incision across the upper lid, in the crease, through which any excess fat can be removed, and the muscles and tissue can be repositioned.  Scarring is usually minimal, as incisions are usually made within the natural creases of the eyelid.  If potential scarring is still a concern, a transconjuctival blepharoplasty may be done, in which the plastic surgeon makes the incision inside the lower eyelid.  In either type of blepharoplasty, no skin is removed, and the incision is closed with dissolving sutures.

Potential Risks

For eyelid surgery, risks can include bleeding, infection, dry eyes, skin discoloration, an inability to fully close the eyes, and a possible loss of vision. Your surgeon will discuss the risks of this surgery with you during the consultation process.

In some cases, the ideal result may be achieved with a brow-lift and/or lower blepharoplasty as well.  It is best to consult with your surgeon for the best personalized result.

Mid-Tier:  Fillers and fat in the upper lid and brow

This patient had Botox primarily for wrinkles, but the difference in her eyelids is astounding. For more, please visit: http://www.realself.com/eyelid-surgery/before-and-after-photos

• Cost:  about $500-2000 for fillers, $2000 for fat
• Procedure time: 30 minutes
• Recovery time: Minimal; <7 days

For those with small amounts of drooping skin, fillers and fat in the brow can be used to elevate the brow, making the lid area appear more elevated.  The advantages to this option are the cost ($500 versus $3000), and significantly lower downtime.  The patient can expect to return to normal work and activities the next day.  What’s more, the results last up to one year.

How It Works

Fat and/or hyaluronic acid fillers, like Juvéderm, Restylane and Perlane, are injected into the area right above the upper lid and below the brow bone.  This volume replicates the natural volume in the brow bone region that is lost with age.

Potential Risks

If too much filler is used in the region, there can be an unnatural look.  Other potential risks include swelling, redness, irritation, and long-lasting bruising.  Your dermatologist will discuss the risks of this surgery with you during the consultation process.

Last Tier:  Depuffing Gels and Collagen-Building Creams, Eyelid Tape

If surgery and fillers aren’t an option, consider a combination of depuffing gels, collagen-building creams, and eyelid tape.

Depuffing gels typically contain a mixture of anti-inflammatory and cooling ingredients to relax the blood vessels in the region.  Of those I’ve tried, my favorite is Dr. Wexler 3-in-1 FastScription Anti-Puff Eye Gel ($26.95, Amazon.com).  It contains oat extract and rice bran proteins to decrease inflammation; cucumber extract to soothe; and MMPi technology and peptides to prevent the loss of collagen in the future.  An incredible, well-rounded product!

Collagen-building creams, on the other hand, typically contain retinoids, peptides, or alpha hydroxy acids, both of which have been clinically proven to stimulate collagen production over time.  Lately I have been enjoying NeoStrata Skin Active Intensive Eye Therapy ($60.71, Amazon.com).  This cream contains an effective concentration of caffeine, which dehydrates skin cells, making them appear flatter and hence less puffy.  The cream also contains firming peptides palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, which will stimulate collagen production over time, making the loose eyelid skin appear slightly more taut, with less droop.

The last option is very popular in Asia:  Double sided eyelid tape!  I like the D.U.P. Wonder Tape ($13.92, Amazon.com) from Japan.  Once you get used to it, it’s easy to use, and it can make a noticeable difference in the size of your eyes.  One caveat:  Frequent use of double-sided eyelid tape will stretch out your eyelids, so this is a fix to reserve only for very special occasions!

Bottom Line

Whether you choose surgery, fillers, creams, or eyelid tape, there is no reason to be living with drooping lids that make you uncomfortable in 2012!

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