U.S.P. grade ethanol is designed for laboratory use.

About the author:  FutureDerm.com is proud to introduce John Su on our staff as a Contributing Writer.  John is an established skin care expert and aspiring dermatologist.   He also runs a blog, The Triple Helix Liaison, dedicated to providing unbiased, meaningful, and insightful information about skin care. For his full bio, please visit our About page.

As I explained last week in The 5 Most Common Mistakes Even Skin Experts Make, it is well-established that ethanol can reduce water content via a form of water loss known as transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (1), lipid content via extraction and dissolution (2), and protein content via denaturation (3). These properties allow for ethanol to be an effective (and drying) penetration enhancer. But what does that mean in the context of skin care?

Ethanol IS Drying

In terms of its DRYING ability, ethanol can be a positive or negative attribute of any given product, depending on its function. If used to “compress” layers of product by encouraging the evaporation of various filler ingredients like cyclic silicones, it’s a positive ingredient. If used to chronically remove sebum from oily skin types, it’s a negative ingredient, drying out the skin.

But make no mistake here. Ethanol in itself isn’t harmful. It’s the drying effect that can lead to other problems. Dry skin is inherently more susceptible to issues such as a weakened epidermal barrier, which leads to less protection, which can lead to inflammation, which can quicken the aging process (4).

Ethanol Does NOT Cause Oxidation Within the Skin

Oxidation is not just for humans: Oxidation in iron, shown above, results in rust.

Contrary to popular belief, unlike ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide, ethanol doesn’t generate oxidation within the skin (or reactive oxidative species, AKA ROS). It just makes skin drier, which consequently, ages faster than oily skin types.

But before you jump to conclusions, note that dry skin types only innately or inherently age faster than oily skin types. This concept only remains valid if both skin types never
apply moisturizer or use adequate antioxidant and sun protection. With proper moisturization and protection, someone with dry skin can age just as gracefully as one with oily skin. Not to mention that the former skin type doesn’t have to worry about acne.

Topically-Applied Ethanol Does NOT Cause Cancer

We all know that excessive oral consumption of ethanol in alcoholic beverages leads to increased risks of various types of malignant diseases such as oral, hepatic, and breast cancer. But can skin cancer be casually related to topical ethanol application? Fortunately, no studies have ever shown a link between topical ethanol application and skin cancer! However, a few studies have shown in animal models, that ethanol in conjunction with Aloe emodin (a component of
Aloe Vera) and UV light can increase the risk of cancer by alteration of the p53 gene (7). However, if adequate amounts of UVA and UVB sun protection are used, this shouldn’t be an issue.

Therefore, the only other source of concern is the amount, if any, of topically-applied ethanol that is able to penetrate through intact skin and enter the blood stream, where it will have the same effects in the body as those known from oral consumption. Fortunately, all studies indicate that no measurable elevations in blood alcohol levels were detected (8). Only one study indicated a higher-than-normal blood alcohol level, and the study used an alcohol-based spray, so the elevated blood alcohol level could have been the result of inhalation rather than dermal absorption (9).

Keep ethanol-based products away from children!

To be on the safe side, keep ethanol-containing products away from children. Don't apply it to their skin, either!

Keep in mind that this only applies for intact ADULT skin. Damaged or infantile skin isn’t nearly as protective as healthy mature skin. Topical application on newborns can lead to ethanol poisoning and even death (10).

Now, the concentrations of ethanol (70%-99.9%) and the lengths of exposure (1-9 hours) used were significantly higher and longer than what we’d encounter in cosmetic products. So really, there’s no need for adult consumers to worry about systemic absorption of topically-applied ethanol, and the risk for children is low, but should still be avoided.

Ethanol is NOT a Cure-All for Oily or Acne-Prone Skin!

I would also not recommend those of you with oily skin types to use ethanol chronically in an attempt to dry out your skin. This is because your skin will respond in a homeostatic way, by attempting to repair the damaged epidermal barrier every time it’s dried out by the ethanol.

The skin will be in a vicious cycle; a constant flux between oily and dry, which can lead to very frustrating combination skin that’s flaky and dry on the surface, but oily underneath. The skin uses transepidermal water loss (TEWL), amongst other things, as a marker to gauge lipid synthesis (epidermal homeostasis) (5).

The Real Danger:  What You Use Ethanol With!

Ethanol, unfortunately, does not play well with others.

Ethanol increases the penetration ability of other skin care ingredients.  This can once again be a positive or negative attribute.  For example, it can be positive in the sense that it enhances the penetration of L-ascorbic acid or vitamin C, which can translate to more collagen production. However, it can be negative in the sense that it enhances the penetration of more dangerous chemicals that everyday consumers are unaware.

For example, in my routine review for Emma, I warned her about using products that
contained the preservative Bronopol, which has been shown to form nitrosamines. For any science buffs interested, Bronopol decomposes in water and forms bromoethanol, which will react with any secondary amides and amines, such as those present in the commonly-used chelator Disodium EDTA, to form nitrosamines (6). Nitrosamine is carcinogenic and should therefore, be avoided. I’m not trying to scare anyone, unlike those who are more alarmist against parabens, because unlike those claims, the amounts that can form in skin care products are up to tens of parts per billion, which are significant
enough to be considered toxic by various regulating agencies. That’s why this ingredient is rarely used in cosmetic products anymore, at least in the United States. Now, throw ethanol into the mix, and you’re looking at even higher amounts of systemic absorption.

Why I Disagree with Paula Begoun

Recently, on my Twitter and Facebook, I’ve been raving about the new Lancôme Teint Idole 24H foundation. Because I’m such a fan of Paula Begoun, one of my readers asked me why I was recommending this product when Paula herself gave it a bad review. She gave a bad review because of the high amounts of ethanol present and the fact that it doesn’t contain any UVA protection.

Well, as all of you should know by now, the ethanol present in the foundation will help the vehicular base of your sunscreen and anything else evaporate more easily, which will translate to better coverage and a longer wear-time!

Why would need a sunscreen when this already provides SPF? Paula is right that the foundation doesn’t contain UVA protection. However, EVEN IF IT DID it still wouldn’t provide adequate protection. That’s because the amount you’d have to apply to achieve the labeled SPF rating is much larger than the typical 1-2 pumps used.

So unless you want someone to stick a candle into your (birthday) cake face, you need a separate SPF product anyways! So for those of you with oily skin, which is the skin type that this foundation is targeted towards, the alcohol will “compress” the layers of product into something more long-lasting.

Possible Alternatives to Ethanol

Skinceuticals CE Ferulic contains ethoxydiglycol instead of ethanol – an excellent choice.

Overall, while ethanol is an adept penetration enhancer, there are other ingredients that function similarly, without the potential drawbacks. For example, most of you know that Nicki has a perennial love affair with the Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Serum ($123.97, Amazon.com)! Instead of ethanol, it uses ethoxydiglycol as the main solvent and penetration enhancer. Ethoxydiglycol is similar to ethanol except that it has a longer carbon chain, which allows it to retain some of the chemical properties of ethanol, without being as potent.  (For science buffs:  ethoxydiglycol retains the hygroscopy and volatility of ethanol).

Bottom Line

The main point to take away is that, though ethanol dries the skin out, it doesn’t directly cause anything like oxidation or the inhibition of collagen production. Ethanol should be used to dry out layers of product, rather than dry out layers of the skin.  Even those with very oily skin types should avoid direct application of ethanol to the skin. There are other ingredients that can be used to keep oily skin at bay, such as salicyclic acid and prescription-strength retinoic acid.

My final recommendation when it comes to ethanol in skin care products is to use it in its most harmless way: to help those with oilier skin types achieve longer lasting makeup. I wouldn’t recommend using ethanol-containing skin care that comes in direct contact with the skin. Just because ethanol is safe, doesn’t mean it should be desired. I reiterate, there are similarly-functioning ingredients that aren’t as drying. As always, weigh the pros against the cons!

I’d love to hear what you guys think about using ethanol in your skin care/makeup routines either down below or on my blog! Oh, and don’t forget to enter my massive brush giveaway!

Links/References:

(1) http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18985178
(2) http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15582358
(3) http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/7918560
(4) http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC443124/
(5) http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2723540
(6) http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20731691
(7) http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14991742
(8) http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11267711
(9) http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/6634839
(10)http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1788121

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• The 5 Most Common Skin Care Mistakes Even Experts Make
  
• Do Skin Care Supplements Really Work?
• What Helps the Skin More: Eating or Topically Applying a Key Ingredient?
• Nutriceuticals and BORBA Product Review
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Hands, a photo by dariuszka on Flickr.

About the author:  Dr. Hanan Taha, M.D. is a Contributing Writer to FutureDerm.com.  Dr. Taha received her MD from Kuwait University in 2002, and a master’s degree in Dermatology from the University of Alexandria in 2010. She also runs a blog in Arabic dedicated to spreading the knowledge about dermatology and cosmetic dermatology in a simple, concise manner (www.elbashra.com). For her full bio, please visit our About page.

Causes

• First and foremost, dark knuckles are NOT caused by dirt accumulation. Scrubbing them vigorously will not solve the problem and in fact, will definitely make it worse. This can be categorized under “mechanical trauma” or “friction”: skin handles any trauma by one of three responses: it either gets thicker, or it gets darker, or it does both. Unfortunately, knuckles are in the third group, and if you have to use your hands in handling rough material, you can be sure your knuckles won’t thank you! ⁽¹⁾
• Dry skin: excessive washing, exposure to hot water, harsh chemicals (example: household cleaners), and exposure to sunlight without protection all lead to skin dryness. ⁽¹⁾
• Some skin diseases will lead to dark knuckles: such as eczema, psoriasis.
• Obesity: among its many problems, being over-weight is harsh on the skin.⁽²⁾

Despite what you may initially think, dark knuckles are not usually caused by dirt, so excessive hand washing will not help and may actually exacerbate the condition.

Treatment

• It is always a good idea to check with your dermatologist. As mentioned earlier, dark knuckles may have an ailment behind them.
• The number one advice I always give my patients is: patience! Almost any skin problem will require some time and patience to see results. Just make sure to follow your daily skin care regimen unfailingly.
• Treat your hands delicately: never let them go dry. That means no washing with very hot water, no excessive rubbing in the towel, and always, always moisturizing them.
• Be careful when handling rough objects. Like sandpaper. Or the back of the carpet when it is time to install it! (yes, voice of experience here!).
• If you are a boxer, don’t come to me complaining of dark knuckles and expect a simple solution! Stop punching people!

• Use a daily exfoliating cream: there are many creams out there containing alpha hydroxy acids in a low enough concentration for daily use. Applied nightly on the knuckles, these will moisturize and exfoliate thus will eventually reduce the darkness.  (Editor’s note:  We love Glytone Retexturize Body Lotion SPF 15, $37.99, Amazon.com, which contains unbuffered glycolic acid and a protective sunscreen).

• Whitening agents: in an earlier article, Nicki had talked about Ambi (2% hydroquinone). Add that to your daily regimen or any other whitening agent you prefer. Combined with the exfoliating cream, this will speed things along.
• A following step, done at a dermatologist’s clinic and after his or her analysis of the situation, would be chemical peels.
• Sun block is a must. Remember, even after treating the darkness, your skin will always need protection if you want to keep the dark spots from returning.⁽³⁾
• Weight loss always helps.

• Caution: application of undiluted lemon juice directly on the skin is not advisable, as it can be drying, which is the opposite of what we need in this situation, plus it can cause irritation and photosensitivity (sensitivity to light or sun) that would lead to even darker skin.

As always, these tips are only intended to steer you in the right direction.  For the best results, see your dermatologist.

Source

1- A. Sood, JS. Taylor. Mechanical Trauma Induced Skin Disorders. In: Fitzpatrick’s Dermatology in General Medicine 2008; Chapter 212.

2- N Puri. A Study of Pathogenesis of Acanthosis Nigricans and its Clinical Implications. Indian Journal of Dermatology 2011; 56(6):678-83.

3- A. Tedeschi, D. Massimino, LE West, G Micali. Management of the Patient. In: Color Atlas of Chemical Peels 2012; Part 5: 201-3.

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About The Author:  FutureDerm is pleased to welcome Leah Argento to our staff as a Contributing Writer. For a complete bio please visit our About page.

It is extremely important to wash your face…morning and night

And yes, I do mean morning and night. OMG…how are you going to find 3 minutes twice a day??  Uugghh!  C’mon; you’re not that busy. And it’s MUCH more important than you think. And I don’t mean merely splashing your face with water in the shower (you know who you are). Rinsing ain’t washing. You need a cleanser. Here’s why…

1.  Research shows cleansing before bed is essential to looking younger, longer.

Every day your skin is aging. And the very simple process of washing your face before bed is an excellent way to mitigate the external factors associated with aging and to stimulate the internal processes that fight aging.

Research has shown that certain physiological changes in the skin do occur overnight. Like many of our organs, our skin can tell night from day. Biological processes vary over 24 hours as a result of time-sensitive “clocks” within our cells, said Dr. David R. Weaver, a neurobiology professor at the University of Massachusetts Medical School. Some evidence exists linking circadian clocks to cell cycle (cells dividing to replenish dead ones) and DNA repair, the natural process by which a cell regularly detoxifies itself. (Impact Journals: Aging.)

Overnight, the skin needs oxygen to repair itself. And sleeping with your makeup on deprives it of this vital nutrient. “When makeup is left on, it blocks the natural exfoliating process, which can leave your skin looking dull”, says Dr. Robins Ashinoff, Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at Hackensack Medical Center in New Jersey.

2.  Nighttime cleansing is essential for letting anti-aging ingredients work.

Nocturnal blood flow in the skin is higher. And when blood flow is increased so is absorption and penetration of ingredients. So again, if you aren’t washing you can’t apply actives that will help fight aging (or acne or whatever your skin condition might be).

Thus, If you don’t wash your face before bed it’s a missed opportunity to do something great for your skin and to wake up with smoother, softer, clearer skin.

3.  Forgoing nighttime cleansing regularly will give you larger pores.

First, consider that excess sebum (oil), dead skin cells, and pollution are sitting on your face. Not to mention makeup (and just because you don’t wear foundation is no excuse). A cleanser will emulsify all of these and remove them from the surface of your skin. According to Dr. Dennis Gross, M.D., when makeup is left on it can seep deep down, clogging pores. He also says that once your collagen levels start to decline (due to aging), the pores do not snap back as easily once they become enlarged. And, leaving makeup on can lead to inflammation that can generate free radicals and collagen breakdown.

4.  Nighttime cleansing prevents skin dehydration.

Skin temperature rises overnight (Temperature of a Healthy Human) which leads to trans-epidermal water loss (evaporation).

This in part causes the skin to lose a significant portion of water at night.  According to an article, Nocturnal Itch, by the Departments of Dermatology and Neurobiology & Anatomy at Wake Forest University School of Medicine, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is significantly increased during the night, which is why our skin can sometimes feel more itchy at night. Thus, if you don’t wash your face, you can’t apply a moisturizer which will help hydrate your skin while you sleep.

5.  Dayttime cleansing prevents excess oil production.

I know what you’re thinking: So why then do I have to wash it again in the morning; I went to bed with it clean? As we just learned, overnight your skin recovers. Which means in the morning you have more dead skin cells to slough off. And more excess sebum to emulsify. These can’t be rinsed away with mere water. Here’s an analogy: I own 2 cats and I can tell you for certain that when my favorite sweater is full of cat hair I can shake it all I want, but that hair isn’t budging unless I take a lint roller to it. Same with dead skin cells and excess sebum…you need to dislodge them & then rinse them away. Water alone removes only about 65% of oil and debris from the surface of the skin (Livestrong Article). Think about what you’re leaving behind – yikes!

Do you really want to put your makeup on top of dead skin cells & excess oil? Would you skip brushing your teeth in the morning because you did it before bed? I think not…

Antibacterial hand gels with Triclosan: yay or nay?

Dear Nicki,

Do you think triclosan is bad for you?

-Jen

Dear Jen,

Triclosan is an antibacterial and antifungal agent used in many beauty and personal care products, ranging from antibacterial hand soaps to toothpaste.  In 1997, the FDA reviewed the efficacy of triclosan in Colgate Total toothpaste, and revealed triclosan in this product was effective in preventing gingivitis.  However, the FDA will not release the efficacy of triclosan in other products until sometime in winter 2012.

What does triclosan do?

Triclosan is a type of alcohol known as a phenol.  Triclosan inhibits bacterial growth by preventing essential bacterial lipid (fat) synthesis with the cells.   A white powdered solid, Triclosan is easily incorporated into deodorants, toothpastes, shaving creams, and cleaning supplies in concentrations of 0.01-0.1%.

Numerous studies have shown Triclosan is effective in controlling bacterial growth of many species, including the very-hard-to-control MRSA (Journal of Hospital Infection, 2006).  As such, Triclosan is now incorporated up to 2% in kitchen trash bags, carpet padding, and some toys.  You may recognize it in these items under names like Microban, UltraFresh, Amicor, and BioFresh.

Is triclosan safe?

Most scientists say yes.  A review of seven studies published in Antimicrobial Agents and Chemotherapy found no link between Triclosan use and bacterial resistance over the short term, despite earlier speculation that this may be the case.  However, long-term studies need to be conducted before we can safely affirm Triclosan is not linked to microbial resistance.

Does triclosan dry out the skin?

For some individuals, significantly; for others, somewhat.  Triclosan has been associated with a skin condition known as allergic contact dermatitis (Dermatologic Surgery, 2009), which is characterized by some combination of itching, dryness, redness, or irritation in the area of contact.  Triclosan is a phenol, which means it tends to be formulated in products a bit higher on the pH scale, where cleansing agents can deter protein and lipid production, resulting in drier skin (Dermatologic Therapy, 2004) even without the allergic reaction.

Is Triclosan bad for the environment?

Floridian coral reefs are great for algae. Triclosan is not.

Somewhat.  A 2010 study in Aquatic Toxicology found Triclosan inhibits the growth of algae, which help to regulate the air by undergoing a large part of earth’s photosynthesis.  Triclosan has also been found to degrade slowly, as it has been found in this study to be a part of sediment that was 30 years old.

Bottom Line

It is not reasonable within the scientific community to conclude Triclosan effects thyroid hormone production or causes cancer in humans.  It has also been determined Triclosan can help to prevent gingivitis when it is included within toothpaste.  Still, given its slow degradation rate and (more relevant for this blog) potential for skin irritation, it may be best to skip the Triclosan until the FDA releases its final report this winter.  Another reason to withhold: A 2010 study from the University of Michigan School of Public Health concluded no difference between regular soap and 0.1% Triclosan anti-bacterial soaps.  I think I’ll stick to washing my hands for a full minute with regular soap rather than risking skin irritation with quick-wash gel!

What are your thoughts on Triclosan?  Let us know in Comments below!

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Dear Nicki,

How do I improve the skin on my body for summer?  Any product recommendations?

-Laura

Dear Laura,

Of all the products I have seen coming out this spring for the body, the one I feel makes the most difference is the Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Glow Pad for Body with Active Vitamin D ($43.62, Amazon.com).

Everybody in the beauty industry loved the original Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Glow Peel for the face because it was formulated with not one but two alpha hydroxy acids, glycolic acid and lactic acid. The new body product is no exception, including both glycolic and lactic acids.  While the company touts the addition of vitamin D to the product, this doesn’t present many benefits except acting as a mild anti-inflammatory and decreasing acne (British Journal of Dermatology, 2006).  Instead, it’s still the glycolic acid and lactic acid in a deep-sinking ethoxyglycol solution that makes your body skin look smooth, refined, and have that Victoria’s Secret model-esque glow.

Wait:  I thought alpha hydroxy acids dried out the skin?!

Despite popular belief, alpha hydroxy acids do not cause skin dryness or irritation.  Instead, alpha hydroxy acids increase skin’s sensitivity, and the other ingredients used with alpha hydroxy acids then cause discomfort, as found in a study by Yu et. al.  A second study assured transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is not altered by application of AHAs.

In truth, AHAs are humectants that increase the ability of the skin to hold onto water.  In fact, one of the only FDA-approved drugs for the treatment of dry skin is LacHydrin, with 17.5% lactic acid!

Does it really reduce hair growth?

Dr. Gross Skin Care Alpha Beta Glow Pads contain Capislow ^TM, which contains plant extracts called protoberberines. In the U.S. patent for Capislow ^TM, protoberberines are claimed to inhibit hair growth within the pilosebaceous unit, where hair follicles form.  Without any non-company-affiliated studies, it’s hard for an outsider to assess how much of an effect Capislow ^TM or protoberberines in general have on hair growth.  However, other studies have proven protoberberines have an effect on reducing acne, so perhaps all is not lost!

How to Apply

The secret here is two-fold:  One, start on the chest, legs, and the arms, to be sure that these exposed regions get treated. I actually cut my towel up into sections, with half for the legs, and the other half split between two arms and the chest:

My photography ability is surpassed only by my ability to cut straight lines. (Joking). Photography classes will be taken soon!

Second, be sure to religiously wear sunscreen after treating your skin with the product.  While use of glycolic acid has been shown in this 2007 study in the Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery to improve the appearance of wrinkles over vitamin-based formulas or placebo [by increasing mRNA and type 1 collagen production], this collagen production is stimulated by gently thinning the uppermost layer of skin.  Think of when you’d scrape your knee when you were little and all that scar tissue would form – the injury would incite new collagen.  Same thing in a lighter form with AHA treatments – a gentle exfoliation leads to greater collagen production over time.  So be sure to wear sunscreen, especially in the beginning (but really, all the time)!

Bottom Line

Whether you’re getting married, have a big date, or just want your body to look hot, these pads really are amazing.  I’ll be following up with a before and after photo session in the upcoming weeks!

•   Official Dr. Dennis Gross website

About the author:  FutureDerm.com is proud to introduce John Su on our staff as a Contributing Writer.  John is an established skin care expert and aspiring dermatologist.   He also runs a blog, The Triple Helix Liaison, dedicated to providing unbiased, meaningful, and insightful information about skin care. For his full bio, please visit our About page.

Everyone’s made mistakes before, discovered numerous ways of how NOT to do something, or has told people the wrong information. I’m certainly guilty of this. So here are my top five acts of misinformation, in no particular order.

1.  Everyone with oily skin types needs to use moisturizer.  

Oily skin is attributed to an excess of sebum. While not fully understood, the main functions of sebum are to act as an occlusive agent by retaining water, facilitate the production of humectants (which bind to water) such as glycerol, and protect the skin with antioxidants (mainly vitamin E). ⁽¹⁾

Well, that kind of reads like the functions of a good moisturizer! So why would anyone with oily skin need a moisturizer then? What’s the point of adding additional moisture when oily skin already has an excess of it?

There are certainly situations where a moisturizer would be necessary – for example, if potent acne treatments are used that deplete the skin of its natural sebum, many people with oily skin don’t need a “moisturizer,” given that the other products used aren’t too drying or irritating.

Note that in this situation, I’m defining a “moisturizer” as something that contains occlusive agents and humectants. Many of those with oily skin don’t NEED such characteristics in topical products. Even if those of you with oily skin who still use products with these attributes, they aren’t the driving reason behind said products are used. For example, I use the Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($22.06, PaulasChoice.com) day and night. However, I use it because of the fantastic antioxidants present in relatively high concentrations, not because I need the additional moisturizer from the occlusive agents (dimethicone and ceramide 3).

Stop the faulty logic!

Before understanding the composition of sebum and what defines oily and dry skin types, I thought for some reason that the skin had a kind of feedback loop where, if it sensed adequate moisturizers present, it would stop sebum production. And that’s what I would tell people. How wrong was I?!  If in fact these ingredients could have such a profound effect on the skin, they’d probably be regulated by the FDA as a drug like tretinoin, which can actually affect inherent change.

2.     Drying alcohols like ethanol are always bad for the skin.

Ethanol and other similar alcohols are very drying, due to its high hygroscopy (ability to bind to water) and volatility (tendency to evaporate). Basically, alcohols will bind to water present in the epidermis and fly away with that water, leaving that layer parched. Furthermore, alcohols dissolve lipids by interacting with the long hydrocarbon chains present in all lipids due to its hydroxyl group (think hydrogen bonding).

On a positive note, these attributes will enhance the penetration of many beneficial ingredients like vitamin C, because it compacts or shrinks the volume of content the vitamin C has to traverse. Granted, there are other ingredients that function similarly, without being so irritating to the skin, such as limonene, sodium tridecyl phosphate, and ethoxydiglycol.  It all comes down to how much the pros outweigh the cons.

That’s why for me, the main benefit of ethanol is its ability to dissolve and encourage the evaporation of various filler ingredients like cyclic silicones and emollients present in heavier products that I use. For example, my daily morning routine consists of layering several products (antioxidant serum, sunscreen, and foundation).  The ethanol present in the foundation encourages the evaporation of the filler ingredients like cyclopentasiloxane, which will allow the pigments of the foundation to last longer on the skin, which means better coverage. I’ll also be less oily throughout the day.

Just like how ethanol “compacts” the layers of the epidermis by drying and dissolving various compounds, it functions similarly for the layers of products used. Except in the case of the latter, my skin isn’t actually irritated or harmed in any way.

Why Paula Begoun May Be Wrong about Alcohol

Before learning all of this, I simply supported the advice I gave to others with information from Paula Begoun’s website, which states that ethanol and drying alcohols generate ROS species and cause irritation of the skin, which will inhibit collagen production. I can’t find any evidence that when applied topically, ethanol generates ROS species; the article she sites as evidence only applies to the effects of ethanol when ingested orally. Also, unless the epidermis and upper dermis is largely damaged, ethanol won’t penetrate deeply enough to affect fibroblasts, which are the structures that build collagen. Another reason why all those in science and medicine should do their own research!

3.     Petrolatum is petroleum.

Before you draw any conclusions, know that I didn’t think petrolatum was petroleum in the sense that it was the same compound, since the latter is quite harmful due to things like its benzene content. I just thought that the “petroleum” listed on ingredient lists was still called “petroleum” and not “petrolatum.” I assumed that the form present in cosmetic ingredients was just a refined version of its crude oil cousin, which is true. However, for some reason my brain read petrolatum as petroleum. I hope I’m making sense. Basically, I was a victim of the concept known in psychology as “Priming.” So don’t worry, my error was a purely semantic one. You can imagine when I finally looked closer at an ingredient list and realized that I’ve been saying/typing petroleum instead of petrolatum for months! But no one else pointed that out to me either, so perhaps they fell victim to the same effects of priming or they were too polite. In the future, if you find an error in my articles, please correct me rather than risk offending me!

4.     All lighteners that inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme work the same way.

Several lighteners like hydroquinone, licorice, and aloesin all have the same end result: the inactivation of tyrosinase, the main enzyme that regulates melanin production. However, they achieve that result through slightly different pathways.

Hydroquinone causes tyrosinase inhibition by affecting DNA and RNA synthesis.(2)  Licorice does so by inhibiting tyrosinase activity without affecting DNA synthesis. (3) Finally, aloesin does so competitively by suppressing DOPA oxidation (DOPA is the compound that forms after tyrosinase hydroxylation). (4)

Before, after reading discovering that arbutin was just a different form of hydroquinone, I just assumed that all other tyrosinase inhibitors worked the same way. I didn’t investigate each ingredient to the letter. Granted, since the end result is the same across the board (though with varying degrees of effectiveness); my corrections aren’t a huge step forward. Still, it’s nice to be knowledgeable about the specifics.

5.     All retinoids are extremely sensitive to UV light and air.

Retinoids possess an acidic component at one end and a lipid-soluble component at the other, with a long [polyunsaturated] carbon chain linking the two. A retinoid’s stability is determined by the last characteristic: its long carbon chain. It’s true that first and second generation retinoids like tretinoin and acitretin are sensitive to light and air, due to the presence of many weak double bonds in the carbon chain.

However, third generation retinoids like adapalene are highly resistant to oxidation due to the introduction of aromatic rings that strengthen the resultingly shorter carbon chain. Adapalene is so adept in this aspect that it is even resistant to oxidation from benzoyl peroxide, something that no other retinoid can claim! (5) And benzoyl peroxide generates significantly more ROS than those that arise from day to day autoxidation reactions.

Before reading about the structure of retinoids and learning this information, I assumed that all retinoids behave similarly because the most common retinoid that’s studied and discussed in OTC products is retinol, a precursor to tretinoin. Retinol of course, is extremely sensitive to air and UV exposure.

Bottom Line:  Keep Fixing Your Errors!

Now, most people will probably think that by introducing myself to the FutureDerm audience as an error-prone skin care “specialist,” I’m hurting my chances of success and credibility right out of the gate. They’d probably be right. But for me, honesty is the foremost guide in gauging ethical morality. And even though the enumerated errors are small in scale and likely meaningless to most people, they illustrate a paramount concept: the need for “constant vigilance.”

Unfortunately, I’m not the only one to commit such blunders. An esteemed dermatologist recently told me that the Garnier BB Cream provides broad –spectrum UVA and UVB protection, even though the only sunscreen ingredient present is octinoxate (a chemical UVB sunscreen). His mistake wasn’t that he didn’t know what octinoxate does. Rather, it was simply not validating Garnier’s claims by looking at the ingredient list. Just like several of my mistakes, his stemmed from a failure to investigate and elucidate. So regardless of who you are, or how much medical/scientific education you’ve received, this vigilance can never falter.

However, just like how the dermatologist was not aware of the error until after his audience pointed it out, I’m ecstatic about joining FutureDerm, knowing that its astute and cognizant readers will correct me if there are further fallacies. Don’t get me wrong, I’m going to do my best to confirm every fact and ensure logical thought processes. But it’s comforting to know that a community is there to back me up! Thank you everyone!

If you’d like, share YOUR thoughts on this article or acts of treason (misinformation) in the comments below or on my blog!

Links/References:

(1)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10594744

(2)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2921758/

(3)   http://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/482649_6

(4)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12213089

(5)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9990414

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Stages of Beauty toners come in different varieties for men and women in their 20's, 30's, 40's, and 50+'s.

Nowadays, it seems almost everyone is coming out with an all-natural anti-aging skin care line.  Yet when an MIT-trained Chemical & Biological Engineer develops her own line, that catches even the most seasoned beauty expert’s attention.  This month, MIT-trained engineer Jasmina Aganovic did just that, with the new line Stages of Beauty.  Each product in her line is formulated to restore the skin’s pH to the optimal neutral range.   Monk’s Pepper extract (AKA chaste berry), Red Tea extract, and Western Dock are all included as antioxidants and dark spot lighteners, but I am most excited about red tea.

All About Red Tea

Red tea is actually not a tea at all, but rather, is derived from the leaves of the Aspalathus linearis plant.  Growing in only one place – the sandy slopes and valleys of the Cedarberg Mountains of the Cape of Good Hope, South Africa – red tea leaves are green but turn red after the fermentation process.  It is debatable whether red tea or green tea contain more antioxidants, with some studies arguing for the former (Healthy and Natural Journal, 2000) and others for the latter (Food Chemistry, 2008; Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2003).  Yet while green tea remains a soothing antioxidant with limited wrinkle-fighting properties, red tea may be better for directly treating signs of aging, as it contains alpha hydroxy acid.  And if you’ve never heard of red tea before, keep in mind its other, more common name:  Rooibos.

What about the toners?

Stages of Beauty's analysis of how skin changes as we age by the decade.

The Stages of Beauty toners are formulated for different ages (20s, 30s, 40s, 50s).  We were able to score an exclusive interview with company founder (and MIT-trained engineer) Jasmina Aganovic:

1.)    As a biological and chemical engineer, what inspired you to create a line of toners?

Toners are really just an extension of the existing Stages of Beauty line. As a brand, we really are focused on providing a complete skincare regimen for women everywhere based on the biology of the skin at their age. I was inspired to create a skincare brand formulated by age because I knew about the biological changes that happened in the skin as we aged, and I didn’t see any other brands that were actually educating women about these changes and providing them with complete solutions.

We all think that “fine lines and wrinkles” are our biggest worry, but we don’t understand what else it is that our skin needs, leading to incomplete anti-aging skincare. Stages of Beauty is built around education, and we hope that our products can not only deliver fantastic results, but teach women about what their skin needs.

The main thing that makes all of our products different is that they are formulated by age. For example, in the case of the toners, the Radiance toner (formulated for the 20s) is focused on antioxidants and oil control, while the Grace toner (formulated for the 50s+) is focused on hydration and balancing the effects of hormones on the skin. No other brand approaches their products in that sort of a way – they all have “one size fits all” products when it comes to age.

Stages of Beauty – Skin in the 20's vs. Skin in the 30's

Some of our products take a couple months, while others can take up to a year. It really depends! Some products, like an eye cream, take a while to perfect in terms of texture.

That age is the largest determinant of our skin’s needs (even more than skin type!). I truly hope that this educational piece is the most surprising. Many women are surprised when I explain to them what goes on in the skin within each of the age groups – they learn so much, and are surprised by a lot of it regardless of whether or not it applies to their age group. They are always surprised to learn facts like: “The skin takes twice as long to regenerate in our 30s as in the 20s which leads to duller skin.”

Stages of Beauty – Skin in the 40's vs. Skin in the 50's (and beyond)

6.)    Why age-specific?

This goes back to a lot of what I was saying in question #1. Very few women understand what their skin needs from a biological level. It leads to literally a lifetime of experimentation with different products to find something that “works.” Age is the largest determinant of our skin’s needs and so few of us understand what it is that our skin needs by age.

Since your demographic is primarily in the 20s… I definitely want to emphasize the importance of SPF’s in products! 80% of our aging comes from the sun, and our 20s is when we get the majority of our free radical damage from the sun. Regardless of how we look at it, the 20s is a great time to start thinking about anti-aging skincare. Currently Stages of Beauty does not offer an SPF (we are formulating one!) but we encourage all of our customers to use an SPF over our products for this reason!

Thank you, Jasmina!

To learn more about the Stages of Beauty line, please visit the Stages of Beauty website.  

Boots Cold Cream

About the author:  FutureDerm.com is proud to introduce Dr. Hanan Taha, M.D., on our staff as a Contributing Writer. Dr. Taha received her MD from Kuwait University in 2002, and a master’s degree in Dermatology from the University of Alexandria in 2010.  She also runs a blog in Arabic dedicated to spreading the knowledge about dermatology and cosmetic dermatology in a simple, concise manner (www.elbashra.com).  For her full bio, please visit our About page.

I meet a lot of people who are not familiar with cold cream, or what it does. I’m here to tell you, this stuff is magic!  Our mothers, grandmothers and great grandmothers swear by it, and after being sidetracked by all the tantalizing products out there, I faithfully came back to my cold cream jar.

What is Cold Cream?

Cold cream has been around for centuries. It is the ultimate all in one cleanser, makeup remover, and moisturizer.

“Cold” is simply a reference to the cooling sensation it causes after being applied, believed to be due to the water content of the cream evaporating off the skin.

Classically, cold cream was made out of a few simple ingredients: olive or almond oil, beeswax and water ⁽¹⁾. However, as the former two have a short shelf life and spoiled quickly, other more stable and longer lasting ingredients replaced them, mainly mineral oil. Various ingredients are added by different manufacturers to infuse a scent or add more moisturizing ingredients.

What is cold cream used for?

Noxzema Deep Cleansing Cream, the original cold cream

Cold cream is a wonder in removing makeup, as its oils dissolve all and any makeup effortlessly and, more importantly, without the need for vigorous scrubbing. It can even be gently rubbed against the lashes (eyes shut tight!) to remove stubborn mascara and eyeliner. After applying it gently all over the face and leaving it for a few minutes, it is best removed with a warm wet towel. If it is still bothersome afterwards, some people like to use their regular face wash or use a toner to remove the remaining greasiness.

Another upside is that cold cream can be quite cheap AND, unlike in the past due to changed ingredients, it does not go bad easily. So a single jar can last you a very long time. Now what other makeup remover can you say that about?

Are the ingredients in cold cream harmful?

No worries about poison in your cold cream!

Probably the one ingredient that will cause a few of our readers some worry is mineral oil. Many sources claim that it is unsafe and should not be used on the skin. Let us put this case to rest: The grade and purity of mineral oil used in cosmetics and skin care products has been scientifically proven to be safe. It is non carcinogenic and non comedogenic ⁽²⁾. Not only that, but because of its nature, mineral oil forms an occlusive barrier on top of the skin, that will prevent water from escaping it, therefore improving skin moisture and combating skin aging⁽³⁾. Mineral oil has been around for a long time and is being used in many skin care products, including the all famous and very much loved baby oil.

What about beeswax?

As for beeswax, what’s not to like?:  It’s natural, it’s moisturizing, it’s soothing, and it smells good. Like mineral oil, it is also non comedogenic⁽⁴⁾. Lip balms are the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about beeswax, but it is also found in lipsticks, mascara and hair care products.

Who should use cold cream?

People with very dry skin, or who suffer from extremely dry, flaky patches; people on drying skin treatments such as retinoids and tazaroten; and people living in dry, cold climates will find cold cream soothing and a life saver.

Who should NOT use it?

Cold cream is quite heavy in consistency, so people with oily skin will probably not be great fans, as it will feel very “greasy” to them, though they can still use it as a makeup remover. Also people living in hot, humid weathers will find this too heavy. It is more of a winter product.

Which brand to buy?

Choose your favorite!  Popular varieties include:

• Boots Original Beauty Formula Cold Cream ($10.99, Amazon.com)
• Noxzema Deep Cleansing Cream ($18.99 for two, Amazon.com)
• Eve Lom Cleanser ($135.00, Beauty.com)
• Avene Cold Cream ($13.67, Amazon.com)
• Ponds ($5.20, Amazon.com) – my personal favorite, only because its scent brings back fond memories of my childhood.

References:

(1)   George W. Hunter. Laboratory Preparation of Cold Cream to Show Saponification and Emulsification. Journal of Chemical Education, 1994; 21 (4): 175.

(2)   Joseph C. DiNardo. Is Mineral Oil Comedogenic? Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2005; 4 (1).

(3)   Zoe Diana Draelos. Therapeutic Moisturizers. Dermatologic Clinics, 2000; 18 (1): 597-607.

(4)   Stefan Bogdanov. Beeswax: Uses and Trade. In: The Beeswax Book 2009; Chapter 1: 10.

Got a question for Dr. Taha or the rest of the FutureDerm.com team?  Contact us via the FutureDerm.com Facebook page with your question today!

Jan Marini Skin Research is one of my all-time favorite skin care companies because they often use clinically-proven ingredients in potent form.  Take for instance, the new Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus ($295.00, Jan Marini.com).  In a five-step program, your skin receives cleansing, refining, brightening, hydrating, and protecting benefits – all formulated to work well together.

The Real Secret:  Glycolic Acid

Numerous studies have shown alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic acid and lactic acid increase exfoliation of the outermost layer of skin, treat sun spots, unplog pores, and reverse sun damage.  Alpha hydroxy acids also stimulate the dermis, the deepest layer of the skin, to produce more collagen (Study, 1998).

However, glycolic acid is considered to be superior to other alpha hydroxy acids because it has hydrating as well as skin-refining effects (Archives of Dermatology, 1996).  This is because glycolic acid functions as a humectant, drawing moisture in from the surrounding air, rather than just treating the skin.

That said, the glycolic acid treatments you receive in a dermatologists’ office are typically upwards of 20 percent, whereas those done at-home are usually 8-15 percent.  While it will take longer to achieve the effects of glycolic acid with Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus than a lunchtime peel, improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and skin laxity will take place over the course of 4-6 weeks.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus has a fairly high concentration of hyaluronic acid, which is documented as a superior moisturizing ingredient that can bind up to 1000 times its volume in water.  Despite this capacity, sodium hyaluronate is surprisingly light as a moisturizer, absorbing into the skin quickly and easily.

Sodium hyaluronate is perfect for all seasons as well, maintaining its efficacy in both high and low humidity conditions (In Cosmetics).

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinol that is combined with a fatty acid, palmitate.  As you might imagine, retinyl palmitate is weaker than retinol, which in turn is weaker than prescription-grade retinoic acid.

Companies tend to use retinyl palmitate because it is more gentle to the skin than retinol or retinoic acid, reducing the risk for redness and irritation.  However, studies have shown that there is no statistical advantage to using retinyl palmitate over placebo (Aesthetic Surgery Journal, 2010).

Still, even if Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus contained retinol, it wouldn’t be fully effective anyway:  Retinol undergoes esterification at a pH of 6.8, whereas glycolic acid has a pH as low as 3.0, depending on the concentration of the solution.  Many dermatologists recommend not using retinol and glycolic acid together for this very reason.

Many Brightening Ingredients

In addition to skin-brightening glycolic acid, the Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus also contains ergothioneine and resorcinol.  Ergothioneine is an antioxidant amino acid that has been found to be secreted in higher concentrations around sites of cellular damage, suggesting ergothioneine may play a protective role (Photochemistry and Photobiology, 1988).  In the skin, ergothioneine has been found to have a higher antioxidant concentration than idebenone, that magical antioxidant so popular in the Prevage series (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2007).  Though coffee berry is likely to have a higher antioxidant capacity than either ergothioneine or idebenone, I believe coffee berry is patented.  What’s more, Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus contains more active ingredients than the Revale Skin line (with coffee berry), so I’m impressed.

Bottom Line

Is your skin a mess?  Whether you’re recovering from a divorce or other trauma, need help after years of sunbathing, or have simply neglected your skin for the past 20 (40?  60?) years, Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus contains a lot of proven ingredients to help your skin recover.  It’s truly a one-two-three punch against sunspots, fine lines/wrinkles, and dullness, and can help your skin get back on its feet again after a stressful event or years of abuse.

While certain ingredients may be more targeted – like prescription-strength hydroquinone for sunspots or prescription-strength retinoids for fine lines/wrinkles – if you want a treatment for all of these problems at once, the Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus will deliver satisfactory results.  My recommendation is to use the Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus for 6-8 weeks and then see your dermatologist to spot-treat whatever lingering skin problems you have after.

I love the Jan Marini Skin Care Management System Plus, and I highly recommend it!

Product Rating:  8.5/10  (High or optimized concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  2/3.  Value for the money:  2.5/3.  Sunscreen: 1/1).

Most of us would want to achieve a good-looking skin, just like how it used to be the good old days. Yes, there are a lot of skin care tips available for us to follow. Aside from using beauty products, maybe going back to the basics will still help in improving our skin.

Here are some basic skin care tips that can help improve our skin:

Sleep

The only solution for us to not look tired during the day is literally not being tired at all. We know that it’s easy to say, but hard to do. However, you need to do whatever you can to have at least 7-8 hours of sleep every night. When you do, you’ll see a noticeably better skin. Sleep is always the cheapest way to get a good-looking skin that not any face cream can do.

Sunscreen

You may have heard a lot about this already, but you really need to wear sunscreen whenever you’re outdoors. See, you should always protect yourself from sun damage by wearing at least SPF 15 every day. By doing this, you’ll prevent skin cancer, wrinkles and sunburn.

H2O

Never neglect drinking water in a day. See, drinking 6 to 8 glasses of water a day is important to your skin. Always remember that hydration comes inside out.

Exfoliate

One of the things that you should not neglect doing is to exfoliate. If you notice that your complexion is looking a little dull, then chances are it needs a little scrub-down. You can choose to use a face scrub that contains round beads to remove dead skin cells, and glowing skin will eventually emerge underneath. When exfoliating, it’s best to do this at least twice daily to avoid irritation.