The following is a guest post from CEO Ada Polla, the CEO of a brand we love, Alchimie Forever.  In addition to her duties as CEO, Ada still finds time to be involved in several ventures such as the Washington Spa Alliance and Fashion Group International (DC chapter), the editorial board of GCI Magazine and as a committee member for the International Spa Association. We thank Ada for her sharing her time and expertise with us.

Every couple of years, our industry comes up with a new buzz word, a hot topic that everyone is talking about and that promises to revolutionize skin care. For the last couple of years, that buzz phrase has been “stem cells.” Last week, I spoke about stem cells at the International Esthetics, Cosmetics and Spa Conference (IECSC) in NYC. Here are some highlights:

What are stem cells?  

Stem cells are undifferentiated cells characterized by self-renewal (they can multiply to produce new stem cells) and by differentiation: upon exposure to tissue-specific biochemical signals, they turn into tissue-specific specialized cells (see image below).

Stem cells play a key role in tissue development, regeneration, and cellular renewal. There are two major categories of stem cells: embryonic and adult. Embryonic stem cells have the extraordinary potential to form all tissues of the body. They can be found in the early embryos (human embryos between 0 and 3-5 days) and are also present in the umbilical cord blood collected at birth.

Adult stem cells have been found in most tissues and organs of fetuses, children, and adults, including the skin. They contribute to tissue quality and ensure tissue renewal. Adult stem cells are somewhat less powerful than embryonic stem cells, as they are already “pre-determined”, i.e., engaged in a certain direction for differentiation. Their potential is thus more limited: you cannot create a whole human being with a single adult stem cell.

In adults, stem cells are not randomly distributed, but are concentrated in tiny regions called “niches.” In the skin, “niches” are found in hair follicles which maintain skin stem cells in a non-differentiated state. The epidermis stem cells are essentially located in the erector muscle of hairs. Skin stem cells may migrate either towards the surface of the skin to regenerate the epidermis or towards the base of the hair follicle to give rise to its constituents. Skin stem cells also continuously renew the skin.

Do Cosmetics Brands Use Actual Human Stem Cells?

While there are a number of brands on the market touting the use of human stem cells, read the fine print. No cosmetic brand is currently using whole human stem cells. Instead, they are using human stem cell extracts. That one additional word is key, indicating that the formulations are based on growth factors. Typically, should skin stem cell extracts be used, you will have a product containing epidermal growth factors (which can only be found in human skin stem cells), which will have powerful rejuvenation and repair benefits to the skin.

What about plant stem cells?

All plants contain stem cells that are located at their apical and root meristem. The meristems are composed of stem cells capable of generating an entire organism. Plant stem cells are found in those regions of the plant where growth takes place. There are nearly inexhaustible reservoirs of undifferentiated cells capable of self-sustaining and of providing precursors for differentiated cells.

It is therefore possible, from only small fragments of a plant’s meristem, to create multiple copies of the same plant, as well as to produce plant stem cell extract. Why should we care about plant stem cells? Well, plant stem cell extracts have already an anti-wrinkle effect on human skin (in vitro and in vivo).

Do Any Stem Cells in Particular Show Promise?

Plant stem cells contain molecules that help the skin’s repair and rejuvenation systems. While all plants indeed have stem cells within them, the most discussed in cosmetics today are edelweiss, the “magical apple,” and lilac stem cells.

The Edelweiss plant (which originates in Switzerland) is of interest even beyond stem cells as it is able to grow in extremely arid climates (minimal water, freezing temperatures). Specifically, the edelweiss plant contains various leontopodic acids, which have extremely high antioxidant activity. As the data below indicates (from IRB, the Italian manufacturer of Edelweiss stem cells), stem cell extracts from this plan show stronger antioxidant activity than many natural antioxidants including resveratrol and vitamin C in vitro, and fabulous clinical results (reduction of wrinkles) in vivo.

Beyond the edelweiss plant, much has been written in the press about the “Magical Swiss apples” (I love all of this talk of Switzerland!). The supplier of Uttwiller Spatlauber applies is Mibelle, also from Switzerland. You will find brands including 3Lab and Sonya Dakar touting the benefits of these magical apples, which also focus on rejuvenation and anti-aging.

Finally, lilac stem cells are also of interest, for their anti-inflammatory benefits (the supplier in this case is Covalence Laboratories, from Arizona). This extract is particularly suited to acne-prone skin.

Bottom Line

In conclusion, plant stem cells represent the latest tool in our fight against skin aging. They do not mean that all our current tools (retinoids, peptides, antioxidants, vitamins, and more) need to be discarded. On the contrary, as is true often in cosmetics, a multitude of tools combined on the skin will an optimal therapeutic result. Incorporate plant stem cell products in your routine, but don’t throw away all of your other products!

Other Posts & Sites You May Enjoy

• Alchimie Forever Official Site
• Spotlight On: Amino Acid Peptides
• Product Review: Hydroxatone
• Product Review: Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention
• Product Review: Sephora Age Prevention Moisturizer SPF 15 
• Would You Use an Umbilical Cord on Your Skin?:  Novo Solutions MD Review

Neutrogena is just one brand that makes SPF 100.

Dear Nicki,

I’ve been reading a lot of reports lately that high SPF sunscreens contain too many chemicals and are unsafe.  Is this true?

-Robin

Dear Robin,

It is well-known that over 80 percent of the visible signs of aging are attributable to sun damage.  So it’s no wonder that the U.S. sunscreen market has been growing at a rate of 30% a year, to $650 million in 2011 (Mintel Sun Care Report, 2011).

Unfortunately, the sometimes overly alarmist Environmental Working Group said high SPF sunscreens can “penetrate through the skin, where they have been linked to tissue damage and potential hormone disruption.”

Analyzing the Negative Claims

Let's take a look closer!

When such claims are made, we must always consider the following:

• Were the studies done on humans?  While the medical and scientific communities must start with animal studies, these models are much smaller than humans, resulting in them being subjected to very high doses of the matter being tested.  What’s more, sometimes these animal models lack the advanced protective mechanisms of humans, resulting in false alarming conclusions.  It’s always best to go with the human studies when they are available!
• Were the studies done in vitro (on cells) or in vivo (in living systems)?  Organisms have evolved to have a number of protective mechanisms that can combat issues like oxidative stress and metabolic issues when these dysfunctions are minor, i.e., on the small scale.  Sometimes applying an agent to a cell can seem negative, but can actually be beneficial to the system at large once other mechanisms are taken into account.  Take, for instance, many antioxidant fruit oils, which have been found in many studies to be toxic to cells, or cytotoxic, but which have been found to have protective effects to the system at large in vivo (Cancer Research).
• Are the concentrations key ingredients used in the experiments typical of the amount of exposure from application of the product?  For instance, even vitamin C can be toxic at doses above 2000 mg/day for the average 150 lb. person.  Some studies test large doses of ingredients on very small animals, and the media often runs rampant with these terrible conclusions, which are largely unfounded, as has occurred with many of the studies on parabens.
• Does the person or group making the statement or conclusion have underlying motivations?  While the Environmental Working Group is a “non-profit” that comprises some scientists, it also has a number of political activists behind it who are working to get a large following.  Hence many of their claims are bold and audacious, go “viral” online, and are refuted by other scientists later – but the media rarely picks the rebuttals up because they’re considered “boring”.  Take, for instance, what happened with retinyl palmitate in 2010: The Environmental Working Group released information that the retinyl palmitate in sunscreens could potentially cause skin tumors, and the report went viral, with over 2000 reports written and millions of shares within the first week.   Yet the report was based upon a single study in which a high concentration of retinyl palmitate was used as the only ingredient, applied to mouse skin, and irradiated with light. The experimental design was clearly flawed, as Dr. Steven Q. Wang, M.D. Ph.D., director of dermatologic surgery at Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Center later explained, “Despite the concerns raised by these non-human studies, retinyl palmitate operates within the skin as only one component of a complex antioxidant network. In these non-human studies, retinyl palmitate was the only compound studied, making the biological relevance of these findings to humans unclear.”  So be careful – the Environmental Working Group essentially wants your “share” on Facebook as much as cosmetics companies want a sale!  This is not to say that some of their work is not good.  However, it is meant to make you more skeptical of sensationalist headlines in general.  Remember:  if it sounds too good or bad to be true, it probably is!
• Is the ingredient studied actually the same?  Be careful – ingredients that sound the same can sometimes be drastically different.  For instance, it has been found that retinol is 100 times as potent as retinyl palmitate!

Breaking down the science of the sun care issue

High SPF sunscreens typically use non-oxide chemical sunscreens, like avobenzone, oxybenzone, and Parsol 1789, which work by transforming UV light into non-harmful forms of energy, like heat or non-UV light.

The two major issues with high SPF sunscreens are irritation (called contact dermatitis) and systemic absorption.

Contact dermatitis will result in red, sore, and inflamed after contact with the sunscreen.  If this occurs, you should switch to another sunscreen, perhaps one with micronized zinc or titanium oxide, which have lower risks of irritation.

As for systemic absorption, it is not to be a concern for anyone who is not nursing, pregnant, or a small child.  At this time, avobenzone and oxybenzone are not considered to be toxic agents (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2010).  Yet many dermatologists, including Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D., still do not recommended that sunscreens with avobenzone or oxybenzone be used on children or by pregnant or nursing women, because they are absorbed into the body.

Yes, avobenzone and oxybenzone are secreted in the urine.

In a study from The Lancet, patients applied avobenzone and oxybenzone sunscreens.  In the hours after, traces of avobenzone and oxybenzone were found within their urine, indicating the substances are in fact systemically absorbed.

It is thereby best to use a formula with a physical block, like micronized zinc oxide or titanium oxide, on children, or if you are pregnant or nursing.  We like the following:

• Neutrogena Pure Free Baby Block SPF 60 ($11.99, Amazon.com) – All of the high SPF Neutrogena is known for, combined with the safety of a zinc or titanium oxide with a silicone base, so there is little or no systemic absorption.
• Elemental Herbs Sunscreen Sport ($15.99, Elementalherbs.com) – A new line, this company specializes in using organic herbs I know my “green” readers will love!
• MyChelle Sun Screen SPF 28 ($35.69, Amazon.com) – An old favorite of mine, this sunscreen does the job, dries clear, and provides serious protection despite the SPF 28 rating.
• NIA 24 Sunscreen SPF 30 ($38.25, Amazon.com) – With skin-brightening and ultra-refining nicotinic acid, a derivative of vitamin B3, this sunscreen acts as a 2-in-1 treatment program and sun protection method.  My only qualm about it is that it is not for the weak:  Your skin will likely get a little red and raw from it in the first few days, only to be highly refined in the weeks afterwards.  I love it!

The True Difference Between High and Low SPF

Let’s say you are in love with a chemical sunscreen with a high SPF and don’t want to switch to zinc or titanium oxide.

Truth be told, there is very little difference in the systemic absorption of high and low SPF chemical sunscreens for the average user.

As an example, let’s look at the active ingredients in Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 100:

• Avobenzone (3%)
• Homosalate (15%)
• Octisalate (5%)
• Octocrylene (10%)
• Oxybenzone (6%)

And in Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 30:

• Avobenzone (2%)
• Homosalate (7%)
• Octinoxate (7.5%)
• Octisalate (5%)
• Oxybenzone (3%)

That “giant SPF 70 difference” comes down to the following difference in percentages:

• Avobenzone 1%
• Homosalate 8%
• Octocrylene 10%
• Octinoxate (-7.5%)
• Octisalate 0%
• Oxybenzone 3%

Not very much, is it?  Of those ingredients associated with systemic absorption, you are getting just 1% more avobenzone and 3% more oxybenzone from SPF 100 than SPF 30.  Yet let’s take this a step further.  Studies have shown most users apply only 25%-33% of the sunscreen they need to get the protection listed on the bottle!  [Read More:  The Ugly Truth about Makeup and Moisturizers with SPF!]

With Neutrogena Ultra Sheer products as the example, this means you are only getting about 0.3% more avobenzone and about 1% more oxybenzone from SPF 100 than SPF 30 from typical applications of both.  Even less than this is absorbed systemically.

Put another way, the difference over your entire body is minor, but the difference in UV protection this makes to your skin is substantial!  Unless you are pregnant, nursing, or applying sunscreen on a small child, I would not worry about the increase in chemical exposure when increasing from SPF 30 to 100.  (And if I was pregnant, nursing, or applying sunscreen on a small child, I would simply switch to a high SPF micronized zinc or titanium oxide, which have not been associated with systemic absorption at all).

Bottom Line

The true risk of switching from a low SPF to a high SPF may simply be the false sense of security you get from the higher number.  In fact, Philippe Autier, a scientist at the International Agency for Research on Cancer, conducted a study and affirmed high-SPF products do in fact spur “profound changes in sun behavior” that may account for the increased melanoma risk found in some studies.  So it is crucial, even with SPF 100 products on your back, to always reapply sunscreen every 4 hours and after immediate water exposure, and to avoid the sun as much as possible between the hours of 10 AM and 4 PM.

Regardless, if you are not pregnant, nursing, or applying sunscreen to a small child, I would not worry about using products with avobenzone and oxybenzone.  However, if you are the cautious type, take solace in the fact that sunscreens with zinc and titanium oxide have not been associated with systemic absorption as of yet.

OTHER POSTS YOU MIGHT ENJOY

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The Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Face Peel contains Alpha Hydroxy Acids (glycolic acid, malic acid, lactic acid) as well as Beta (salicyclic acid).

About the author:  FutureDerm.com is proud to introduce John Su on our staff as a Contributing Writer.  John is an established skin care expert and aspiring dermatologist.   He also runs a blog, The Triple Helix Liaison, dedicated to providing unbiased, meaningful, and insightful information about skin care. For his full bio, please visit our About page.

Last week, in Hydroxy Acids Part I:  What are Hydroxy Acids?, we differentiated the various types of hydroxy acids (HAs) that one can encounter in the cosmetic and medical industries. I proceeded to enumerate 10+ examples of compounds that fall under the umbrella definition given for HAs. Fortunately for the readers, or those of you who are bored by pages of scientific jargon, only a few of the examples have been widely used to treat skin conditions. The FOUR that will be covered today include the following:

• (1x) Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA): Glycolic Acid (GA).
• (2x) Salicylic Acid Family (SAF): Salicylic Acid (SA), and Lipohydroxy Acid (LHA).
• (1x) Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA): Gluconolactone (GUL).

Glycolic Acid

IQ Naturals Glycolic Acid Peel ($24.95) is 30% – very strong for at-home use!

As the most well-known and studied HA, you always hear that GA is great for “exfoliating” the skin. But how does it exfoliate the skin? Several studies suggest that GA exfoliates the skin by manipulating the calcium ion concentrations present in the epidermis (1). Calcium ions play crucial roles in the adhesion of skin cells, specifically in structures like the desmosomes and adheren junctions (2). Now, because AHAs like GA can chelate metal ions (3), its presence once applied topically, will result in an overall loss of the epidermal concentration of calcium ions, which in turn will disrupt the adhesion of skin cells, ultimately leading to “forced” exfoliation.

*Note that because GA is extremely hydrophilic, it will tend to stay away from, and therefore not exfoliate areas that are lipid-rich, like the lining of hair follicles (pores).

What about GA’s alleged claims of helping with anti-aging and hyperpigmentation? Fortunately, GA is a powerhouse when it comes to these issues as well; it addresses them via multiple pathways.

1. In vitro and ex vivo studies indicate that high-strength GA directly accelerates collagen synthesis in fibroblasts by modulating activation (4).
2. Furthermore, GA inhibits matrix degradation by stimulating the production of the cytokine, interleukin-1 alpha (IL-1a) (5). Because IL-1a also plays significant roles in other biological interactions including prostaglandin release (compounds related to inflammatory reactions), that may attribute to GA’s irritation potential, overly aggressive and chronic use of GA is not recommended.
3. GA can also increase epidermal thickness, epidermal and dermal levels of hyaluronic acid (the other HA!), and increased type I collagen gene expression measured by the levels of mRNA (6). The results are positive changes in appearance, texture, and function.
4. Finally, GA is known to be effective in treating forms of hyperpigmentation such as melasma and solar lentigos. However, in the past it was just assumed that this mechanism of action was due to accelerated remodeling and exfoliation, which will result in faster pigment dispersion. However, some studies have shown that part of GA’s ability to reduce hyperpigmentation is independent from its acidic characteristic. In fact, GA was shown to directly inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme (7). While several compounds such as hydroquinone already operate via this mechanism, why not use GA if it has so many other benefits?

Salicylic Acid

Neutrogena OIl-Free Acne Wash is a reader favorite. Its secret? You guessed it: Salicyclic acid.

Another very well-known HA, SA is known for its ability to treat acne. It does so in a similar fashion as that of GA. However, with the hydroxyl and carboxyl groups attached directly the benzene ring, SA is much more lipophilic than GA. Therefore, it can exfoliate the areas (like in the pores), that GA can’t. However, it does have distinct properties that separate it from GA.

1. SA is antibacterial, which has the potential to neutralize any P. Acnes that’s present in acne papules and pustules. SA’s antibacterial nature comes from its ability to inhibit the production of various aspects necessary for binary fission (bacterial reproduction), such as fibrinogen, fibronectin, and alpha-hemolysis (8).
2. SA is also anti-inflammatory, which again is great for treating acne conditions, as any additional inflammation will worsen the breakouts. SA’s anti-inflammatory nature comes from its ability to truncate the arachidonic acid (AA) cascade. This in part, allows SA to suppress the expression of inflammation-inducing genes by the inhibition of transcription activators such as (nuclear factor kappa-light-chain-enhancer of activated B cells (NF-kB), activation protein-1 (AP-1), and CCAAT/enhancer-binding protein B (C/EBPB) (9), in case you were curious…

Lipohydroxy Acid

La Roche Posay Effaclar Micro-Exfoliant Astringent Lotion is one of the few products on the market in 2012 to contain lipohydroxy acid.

A newcomer and relative to SA, lipohydroxy acid (LHA) is structurally characterized as an SA molecule that has an eight-carbon fatty chain connected to the aromatic benzene ring. This “attachment” allows for LHA to be more lipophilic than SA, while penetrating less deeply, which may partially account for its lower irritation potential (10). Due to this structural modification, LHA appears to modulate trans-membrane glycoproteins and not affect the corneocyte membrane, unlike SA and others (11), which allows LHA to induce desquamation of individual desmosomes, resulting in cleaner and more even exfoliation.

With exfoliation covered, what else can this newcomer do? Besides being anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory like its parent molecule SA, LHA’s other important characteristic is that it exhibits similar effects as those of tretinoin, albeit less potent ones. LHA has been shown to stimulate renewal of epidermal cells and of the extracellular matrix (12).

While a relatively new compound, LHA is an exciting ingredient that I would personally love to see further researched and elucidated. Its low irritation potential (by being less penetrating and the ability to operate at a pH of 5.5) combined with its (weak) tretinoin-like effects, would be a Godsend for those who have very sensitive skin (like people with rosacea) and cannot use, but still desire the benefits of LHA’s more traditional and irritating counterparts.

*Note that most if not all of the studies cited for LHA are done by L’Oreal Corp, or some affiliated party. L’Oreal owns the sole brand that uses LHA, La Roche-Posay. And while the studies are well-designed and the conclusions are logical, this conflict of interest and source of bias cannot be overlooked. Guess we can only wait until more independent research arises.

Gluconolactone

Like lipohydroxy acid, gluconolactone can be hard to find in products. Exuviance Evening Restorative Complex contains it.

As stated last week, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are AHAs with multiple hydroxyl groups. Even newer than LHA, PHAs represent a new generation (though not necessarily a better one) of HAs because they give similar results as AHAs, without the irritation that usually comes hand-in-hand (13).

Furthermore, PHAs like gluconolactone (GUL) provide additional hydration due to the additional hydroxyl groups, which can attract more water as humectants. GUL has also been shown to work well with other proven ingredients such as tretinoin and hydroquinone (14).

I also find it exciting that gluconolactone has been shown to be just as effective as benzoyl peroxide (BP) at reducing acne lesions (15), without the irritation! That’s great because if you can avoid BP, which operates by generating ROS and ages the skin prematurely, you can deal with acne without hurting your skin. Once again, I’m eager to see more well-designed studies done to examine and analyze the currently unknown mechanism of action and any other potential dermatologic applications.

Phew! While that wasn’t very long, it admittedly was quite technical. Stay tuned for Part 3 (misconceptions of HAs) and Part 4 (product recommendations)! Please let me know your opinions down below in the comments section or better yet, on my blog! And make sure to enter my awesome brush giveaway, which is closing in less than two weeks!

Links/References:

(1)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10616036

(2)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11739386

(3)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16026578

(4)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18505512

(5)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14756525

(6)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11359487

(7)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14756523

(8)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC164295/?tool=pubmed

(9)   http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/ben/aiaamc/2007/00000006/00000004/art00005

(10)http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17348998

(11)http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2921757/table/T1/

(12)http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9252775

(13)http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15002657

(14)http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15002656

(15)http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1303072

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• Hydroxy Acids Part I:  What are Hydroxy Acids?
  
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acne, a photo by epidenver on Flickr.

People typically think of acne as a typical teenage problem.  However, a University of Alabama at Birmingham study of more than a thousand adults revealed that acne doesn’t always end with the teen years, even if you have a skin care routine. Adult acne affects the following demographics:

• 50% of women and 42% of men in their 20s
• 35% of women and 20% of men in their 30s
• 25% of women and 12% of men in their 40s
• 15% of women and 7% of men in their 50s and up

Obviously, not a teenage issue at all!

Social Issues

Dr. Jeanette Graf, M.D., a Great Neck, NY-based dermatologist and author of the best-seller Stop Aging, Start Living, “Adult acne is often difficult for adults emotionally, because they didn’t expect to be battling zits way past their teen years.” Adding to the stress, she says, is that “society doesn’t seem as open to adults having skin problems.”

Dr. Paul Cohen, M.D., of Toronto’s Rosedale Dermatology Center, agrees. “When adults come into my office with acne, they’re much more distraught than teens.”

What Causes Acne?

Acne vulgaris, a photo by Adams999 on Flickr.

Adult acne occurs when the skin’s sebaceous glands produce excess amounts of an oily substance called sebum, which clogs pores that attract bacteria and become inflamed.  In a seven-step process, bacteria accumulates within the pore, eventually leading to pimple formation.

There are numerous contributing factors to adult acne:

• Changes in humidity or weather
• Cosmetics, skin products or hair products
• Family heritage or hypersensitivity
• High-sugar food & drinks that increase oil production which blocks pores [Read More:  How Does Food Influence Acne?:  The Scary Truth about Dairy Products and Sugar]
• Hormones from dairy products, pregnancy or menstrual cycle
• Certain medications, such as corticosteroids
• Smoking
• Stress, which can trigger cortisol that may result in pore-clogging oil

Making Changes

Some of the possible causes for acne are beyond your control, like an inherited tendency toward breakouts. But others can be addressed through a variety of techniques:

1.  Go see your dermatologist in person.

Dermatologists can often grant personalized advice and treatments that you would not get from reading a book or magazine (or *sob!*, even a blog).  For instance, Dr. Lawrence Gibson, M.D. of the Mayo Clinic recommends also keeping your hair off your face, especially if it’s oily, as much as possible.

Dermatologists also have access to stronger LED light therapies than are available for at-home use.  What’s more, at an appointment, dermatologist can determine if you are a candidate for each therapy in the first place:  For instance, studies have shown LED phototherapy does not work against cystic acne, the most severe form of acne, which is characterized by painful nodular inflammations a few centimeters in size.  (A photo is available here).

LED phototherapy is not recommended in these patients because the treatment temporarily causes inflammation in the skin as immunological cells infiltrate the area, which can be very painful.  LED phototherapy could exacerbate cystic acne by causing the lesions to erupt, potentially spreading into surrounding follicles or resulting in scarring.  So, again, if you have chronic acne, get thee to a dermatologist!

2.  Try this Skin Care Regimen for Morning

1. Cleanser with anti-inflammatory ingredients and salicyclic acid, such as Aveeno Clear Complexion Cleansing Bar ($6.75, Amazon.com).  In studies, salicyclic acid has been found to be more effective than alpha hydroxy acids in reducing the number of pimples.  I also prefer salicyclic acid to benzoyl peroxide for all over the face because benzoyl peroxide increases free radical production in the skin.

2. Spot treatment, such as ZAPZYT Acne Treatment Gel ($4.99, Amazon.com), or, for more sensitive skin, Neutrogena On the Spot Vanishing Formula ($16.69 for three, Amazon.com). Both contain benzoyl peroxide, which causes an oxidative reaction within the pore that actually destroys the pimple from the inside out.  Pretty awesome.

3. Oil-Control Treatment, such as Philosophy On a Clear Day Blemish Serum ($30.00, Amazon.com). This product contains ultra-effective salicyclic acid as the first ingredient, and glycolic acid, which increases cell turnover.

3b. Moisturizer (optional; use only if your skin is dry), such as Aveeno Ultra Calming Moisturizing Cream ($13.95, Amazon.com). This product contains feverfew extract, which I would never recommend if the good folks at Aveeno didn’t take out the potentially-irritating parthenolide within it.  However, without the parthenolide, feverfew is an anti-inflammatory. However, if your skin is oily, you may wish to skip this step, especially because, according to NYC dermatologist Jody Levine, “You want the active ingredients, like salicyclic acid, to soak in without interference.”

4. Oil free foundation or powder with SPF, such as Neutrogena Healthy Defense Powder with SPF 30 ($19.98 for two, Amazon.com). The product does not contain any ingredients that should provoke acne, and provides oil coverage and SPF protection, which is often hard for women with oily or acne-prone skin to find.

3.  And this regimen for night!

1. Cleanser, such as Aveeno Clear Complexion Cleansing Bar ($6.75, Amazon.com). (see morning for description)

2. Spot treatment WITHOUT benzoyl peroxide, such as Clean and Clear Advantage On-The-Spot Acne Treatment ($6.75, Amazon.com). This product contains 2% salicyclic acid. The benzoyl peroxide spot treatment from the morning is not recommended for night because benzoyl peroxide can denature the form of vitamin A (tretinoin) found in Retin-A.

3. Retinoid treatment (if not pregnant or nursing). Ideally, see a dermatologist for a prescription for Retin-A, which has twenty times the potency of retinol sold over-the-counter.  Retinoids are helpful against acne because they increase the rate of cell turnover, exfoliating the skin. If prescription treatments are not an option for you, RoC Anti-Wrinkle Treatment for All Skin Types ($14.79, Amazon.com) contains retinol fairly high on the ingredients list and anti-aging antioxidant vitamin E.  Keep in mind retinoids can increase photosensitivity, which is why the product should only be used at night.

4. Moisturizer (optional; use only if your skin is dry), such as Aveeno Ultra Calming Moisturizing Cream ($13.95, Amazon.com). Sometimes retinoids are irritating or drying to the skin, so you may wish to use a soothing, anti-inflammatory moisturizer like this one at night, even if you choose not to during the day.

4.  Avoid these 17 ingredients in skin care products!

Dr. Leslie Baumann recommends oily/acne-prone skin care types avoid the following ingredients in her best-seller, The Skin Type Solution, as at least one peer-reviewed published studies have associated each of these ingredients with acne:

• Butyl stearate
• Cinnamon oil
• Cocoa butter
• Coconut oil
• Decyl oleate
• Isopropyl isostearate
• Isopropyl myristrate
• Lanolin
• Myristyl myristrate
• Neopentanoate
• Neopalmitate
• Octyl palmitate
• Octyl stearate
• Peppermint oil
• Propionate
• Propylene glycol
• Sodium lauryl sulfate

However, it should be noted these ingredients do not provoke acne in all patients. Consult your dermatologist if you have a question about a certain ingredient and your skin type.

5.  Try each of these lines.

If you’d prefer not to go to a store and look for the products I recommended above, I also like the following brands.  While I haven’t had acne for a long time, these brands have always delivered consistent results in any skin care system of theirs I have tried:

• Jan Marini Skin Care Management System:  Oily to Very Oily ($156.00, Amazon.com) – I’m currently using this in the Normal to Dry, and love it!
• Rodan+Fields Unblemish Regimen for Acne and Acne Marks ($160.00, Amazon.com) – Though Drs. Rodan and Fields also created the ProActiv line, the ingredients in the new Unblemish Regimen are far superior, and I believe readers will find better results.
• Acne Free Severe Acne Treatment System ($21.87, Amazon.com).  If you’re not into higher-end products, never fear:  This comprehensive system from Acne Free contains all of the ingredients I recommended above, including salicyclic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and a form of retinol.  Fantastic!

What I like about ordering these lines through Amazon.com is there is a no-hassle return policy.  Try one for 3 weeks; if it doesn’t work, move onto the next.

6.  See a facialist!

Though I’m a full advocate of modern traditional medicine (I am studying for an M.D., after all!), the truth of the matter is, there are still many methods that traditional medicine has yet to analyze properly, like acupuncture, herbal remedies, or meditation.  Truth be told, I believe facials, including extraction methods and facial steaming, are areas that need further exploration.

Skin care educator Angela Palmer advises recognizing the difference between a doctor and an esthetician, each of whom can offer assistance. A professional esthetician, she says, can provide facial treatments that complement a doctor’s treatment program.

Palmer explains that extracting blockages and clearing pores of excess oil will make blemishes less likely to form. Specially formulated acne facials can not only reduce breakouts and inflammation, but also improve skin clarity overall.

Regular facials tend to have a better effect than occasional visits to an esthetician, so it’s helpful to find a source that’s both affordable and convenient in terms of place and time. Adults with busy schedules can’t always make time during business hours for a facial, so look for a professional esthetician with appointments available during evening and weekend hours.

Bottom Line

There are many methods you can use to treat acne, some of them more effective than others.  The best way to treat acne is to use clinically-proven ingredients in high strength and in combination.  Unfortunately, you may have to rotate through a few different lines and products before you see results.  Another caveat is that bacteria can become resistant to skin care treatments over time, so even if you get months to years of relief from an anti-acne system, you may have to change eventually anyway.

I would also recommend that all readers see a dermatologist and possibly an aesthetician for exclusive, in-person recommendations.  Lastly, be smart about what you put on your face!  From your hair and your hands to oil-rich make-up products, treat your acne-prone skin like the delicate tissue it really is.  It’s not to be messed with!

Other Posts You May Enjoy

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• PAC Perfect Acne System
• How Hormones Affect Acne, Skin, and Aging
• Want Better, Clearer Skin?  See the Light:  The Beauty Brains and FutureDerm
• Olay ProX Professional Review

It’s not easy. Whether it is smoking, drinking, biting our nails, or any other vice, quitting takes great commitment and strength. Nervous habits develop mainly as a way of letting off steam. Unfortunately, aside from being an unhealthy outlet, they also take a toll physically. Here are five nervous habits that affect your skin, and why you should try to quit them:

1. Nail-biting or Pulling hangnails

It’s not just about your nails being unpresentable: biting and tugging at your nails and hangnails breaks the skin, and once that happens, infection can soon follow, which can be very painful and problematic to treat, especially if the habit continues. In rare, very severe cases, this can even lead to loss of the nail entirely. ⁽¹⁾ Pulling hangnails can also rip some of the normal skin without, causing a very painful cut.

Aside from skin infection and nail problems, nail biting also leads to complications in the gum and teeth. It can even go as far as affecting the jaw joint and bones. ⁽²⁾

Solution: The most common solution to prevent nail biting is applying a bad tasting nail lacquer. Hangnails are basically dry skin, and the best solution is to keep a moisturizer close by and apply it three, four times a day. Or you can choose the natural route by massaging olive oil into your nails and cuticles.

2.)  Scratching

Scratching can either be due to an actual skin problem that makes it itchy, or it can be a form of stress relief. Sometimes it can be both.

Scientific fact:  Even if your skin is completely healthy, scratching it will destabilize immune cells called mast cells, releasing histamine from them, which will then cause actual itching and even more scratching, in a vicious cycle that continues on and on.⁽⁵⁾

A common example is seen in those who suffer from seborrheic dermatitis (SD). In a nutshell, SD is oily, itchy, flaky skin. Stress is known to bring about a flare up. ⁽³⁾ Scratching makes the matter worse, causing more stress. Thus you again enter a vicious cycle that is hard to break: you’re stressed -> SD flares -> you itch -> you scratch -> scratching induces more itching -> you scratch some more -> you stress because you’re scratching -> SD flares -> you itch!  On and on it goes.

Scratching may also be a form of stress relief that is unrelated to an existing skin problem. People who suffer from this habit explain that scratching comforts them.⁽⁴⁾

Whatever the reason for scratching, the skin is being broken, which facilitates the entry of microbes. Added to that, chronic itching leads to skin thickening and darkening.

Solution: This takes a lot of will power. Undoubtedly it will be an ongoing struggle. If you fail every now and then, don’t beat yourself up, and just get right back on that horse! Avoid scratch triggers: keep the skin well moisturized, wear soft fabrics, stay away from hot water and excessive skin rubbing, and manage stress. Discuss it with your dermatologist; you might have a skin disease that’s causing the itch (such as SD or atopic dermatitis).

3 -Lip licking / Lip biting

In an effort to bring back moisture to dry, chapped lips, some people resort to constantly licking their lips. This habit actually dries the lips even more. What you are doing is adding a layer of water that will evaporate from your lip surface. The thing is, when water is applied to the skin, it takes some of the skin’s own water with it! So you might feel better for a few minutes, but since you did not apply an occlusive agent to your lips afterwards, your skin will feel even drier than it did before in no time, and you will find yourself licking your lips constantly.⁽⁶⁾

Solution: always keep a lip balm handy! Apply it within three minutes of wetting your lips, to lock in the moisture.  Nicki loves Fresh Sugar Advanced Lip Therapy ($25.00, Amazon.com).

4.)  Pimple picking/Pimple popping

More than 85% of us deal with acne in our teens. Post-acne scars and pigmentation changes are some of the most common things dermatologists see in their clinics. Sure, there are many treatments out there, ranging from peels to lasers and beyond. But bear in mind, it can be a costly, long process. You will need different treatments for different acne scars, and in the end, a 100% improvement is never guaranteed.

Solution: Resist the urge to pick or pop!  This is a must – control yourself!  :-)

5-Hair pulling

You see it mostly in children, but young adults can suffer from it too. Hair pulling, or trichotillomania (as it is known in the medical community), is usually caused by stress or something such as OCD.  Repeated pulling and tugging at hair will eventually lead to hair loss that could be extensive. This affects mainly the scalp, but can also affect eyebrows, eyelashes, and beards.  Also, pulling at longer hair with the teeth can cause dental erosion. Some patients actually swallow the hair, which could lead to gastrointestinal complications.⁽⁷⁾

Solution:  Of all the repetitive habits mentioned in this article, this is the most difficult to deal with. It will require seeking psychological help. The problem tends to become less severe with age, but for some, by that time, a lot of damage might have already occurred.⁽⁷⁾

Bottom Line

Quitting any habit is not a spur of the moment decision; it takes conscious planning and constant vigilance. It also takes a deep conviction that you are quitting for a good reason. That’s the only way you will find the strength to keep going. Stress is always a major contributing factor, so help and a support system are also important.

Good luck always!

What other bad/nervous habits can you think of that affect your skin? Let us know!

Sources:

1. DY. Lee. Chronic Nail Biting and Irreversible Shortening of the Nails. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology 2009; 23(2): 185.
2. P. Pacan et al. Onychophagia as a Spectrum of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder. Acta Dermato-Venereologica 2009; 89: 278-80.
3. A. Reich et al. Stress and the Skin. Giornale Italiano de Dermatologia e Venereologia 2010; 145(2): 213-9.
4. L. Misery. Psychogenic Pruritus. In Pruritus 2010; 2: 223-7.
5. S. Davidson, GJ Giesler. The Multiple Pathways for Itch and their Interactions with Pain. Trends in Neuroscience 2010; 33(12): 550-8.
6. A. Shai. Skin Moisture and Moisturizers. In Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care 2009; 4: 24-33.
7. DC Duke et al. Trichotillomania: A Current Review. Clinical Psychology Review 2010; 30(2): 181-93.

Dear Nicki,

Which is better for the skin – soap or shower gels?

-Bree

Dear Bree,

Our great-grandparents had no choice but to use a bar of soap in the bath or shower.  Yet like so many other improvements – horses to cars, landlines to cell phones, air mail to e-mail – shower gels and body cleansers are often an improvement to soap.  Take, for instance, a 2004 study in Dermatologic Therapy which found cleansers with a high pH (like many soaps) can strip skin of lipids and proteins, leading to dryness, irritation, redness, and, in some cases, even broken skin leading to infection.  For this reason, I tend to avoid any cleansers with a high concentration of sodium bicarbonate (with a high pH), as well as most bar soaps.

What’s the difference between body wash and shower gel?

A thin consistency makes shower gel better for warmer climates.

Both moisturizing body wash and shower gel can be applied straight from the container, or with a hand-held pouf that provides extra lather and full-body coverage. Each offers a different texture and concentration, and each cleans differently.

• Body wash is better for those with normal skin.  Body wash is thinner than shower gel because it comes in liquid form.
• Moisturizing body wash is best for those with dry skin.  During cold months, it also provides extra moisture.  Moisturizing body washes are rich with moisture, often featuring occlusive agents, like petrolatum and mineral oil, which seal moisture into the skin while you are still in the bath or shower.  It is still thinner in consistency in most cases than shower gel.
• Shower gel is generally better for those with acne-prone or oily skin or in warm, humid climates.   Shower gel is thicker than body wash and has a more firm consistency; many formulas are also “cooling,” with cucumber or sea extracts.
• Treatment body washes or shower gels, like Neutrogena Clean and Clear Body Wash ($5.97, Amazon.com) defy the rules listed above.  These contain active ingredients like salicyclic acid, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that alleviates acne, despite the fact that it is technically a “body wash.”  BHAs work in part by softening keratin, a protein that forms part of the skin structure. This helps to loosen dry scaly skin, increasing cell turnover.

Are antioxidants important in bath or shower gel?

Dragonfruit, anyone?

Yes and no.  In order to get the benefits of a body wash or shower gel, you need to rub these into the skin for a full minute.  According to renowned dermatologist Dr. David Bank, M.D., using cleansers for less time doesn’t allow the beneficial ingredients bind to the skin at their full capacity.  Ideally, a body wash or shower gel should include antioxidants and beneficial ingredients like the following:

• Coffee
• Green or white tea
• Mangosteen
• Pomegranate
• Goji and/or acai super fruit

Certain luxury bath products may also contain skin conditioning nutrients like the following, which are beneficial when applied to the skin for long enough:

• Vitamin A (retinoids)
• Vitamin B3 (niacinamide)
• Vitamin B5 (panthenol)
• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, derivatives)
• Vitamin E (tocopherol)
• Glycolic or lactic acid

Choosing a Scent

Regardless of whether you prefer a shower gel or body wash, part of the attraction is finding a scent that invigorates you in the morning or relaxes you after a long day.  For instance, Vitabath makes the following scents many prefer in the morning:

• Fresh Citrus
• Ivy & Lily
• Lavender Chamomile
• Nouveau Rose

Or if you want a substitute for some rich dessert, you might choose an aroma like:

• Coconut Crème
• Luscious Lemon
• Vanilla Sugar
• Wild Red Cherry

Bottom Line

Though there are moisturizing soaps like Dove, most bar soaps have a high pH and too little moisturization, leaving your skin depleted of certain hydrating lipids and proteins so that you experience uncomfortable “after-wash tightness”, dryness, redness, irritation, and, in some extreme cases, even skin breakage.   It’s best to select a body wash in the cool fall/winter and shower gel in the warm spring/summer, although “treatment” body washes for acne, eczema, psoriasis and the like will defy these rules altogether.

Got a question for FutureDerm.com?  Let us know on the FutureDerm.com Facebook page!

Other Posts You Might Enjoy

• 4 Common Beauty Products to Stop Using NOW
• Are You Aware of the Parabens You Eat?
• Spotlight On: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
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• Is Your Dry Cleaning Habit Bad for Your Skin?

About the author:  FutureDerm.com is proud to introduce John Su on our staff as a Contributing Writer.  John is an established skin care expert and aspiring dermatologist.   He also runs a blog, The Triple Helix Liaison, dedicated to providing unbiased, meaningful, and insightful information about skin care. For his full bio, please visit our About page.

Along with retinoids and vitamin C, hydroxy acids (HA) are among some of the most well-documented topical compounds in the field of dermatology. While glycolic and salicylic acid remain the most prevalent and ubiquitous (1), several new additions have been making waves in the cosmetic and medical industries such as lactobionic acid (2). But before we discuss specific hydroxy acids, we need to know what they are.

What defines a hydroxy acid? 

The most basic definition of an HA is a carboxylic acid, which is an organic acid that has at least one carboxyl (carbon double-bonded to oxygen) group. However, that general definition includes unrelated compounds like retinoic acid, L-ascorbic acid, and azelaic acid (3). Therefore, further qualifications need to be identified.

How do they differ from each other?

There are four types of HAs: Alpha HA (AHA), Beta HA (BHA), Salicylic Acid (SA), and Poly-HA (PHA).

• AHAs are carboxylic acids with one hydroxyl group attached at the “Alpha” position of the carboxyl group, meaning that the two functional groups are separated by ONE carbon atom. AHAs include the glycolic, lactic, and phytic acids.
• BHAs are carboxylic acids with one hydroxyl group attached at the “Beta” position of the carboxyl group, meaning that the two functional groups are separated by TWO carbon atoms. BHAs include the citric, malic, and tropic acids.
• SA is a carboxylic acid with both the hydroxyl and carboxyl groups attached directly to an aromatic benzene ring, rather than along a linear carbon chain.
• PHAs are carboxylic acids with multiple hydroxyl groups, with at least one attached to the “Alpha” position of the carboxyl group. PHAs include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.

And that’s a wrap! I hope this clarified the structural differences between the various HAs that are encountered in cosmetic formulations. I know this post is short compared to my usual novels, but I’ve decided to break down this topic discussion into FOUR parts. Next week, we’ll be talking about HOW the various HAs are used, and WHAT their mechanisms of action are. Part III will be about the common misconceptions of HAs, and Part IV will be product reviews and recommendations! So stay tuned! Don’t forget to enter my brush giveaway!

Links/References:

(1)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8642081

(2)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20367666

(3)   http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17147560

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Dear Nicki,

I’m a new fan of your blog! I came across it in my searches for reviews and insight on coffee berry.

I’ve read many favorable reviews for Skinceuticals CE Ferulic [and other antioxidant treatments], can (and how) would you use that along with Revaleskin products with Coffee Berry?

-Melissa

So isn’t CoffeeBerry alone enough?

No studies to date have compared the effect of CoffeeBerry alone to combinations of other antioxidants, which may act synergistically to sustain their levels in the skin.  In addition, different antioxidants work via different pathways and have varied sources.  For instance, glutathione is naturally produced in the body and works in nearly all of the cells of the body, whereas vitamin C is obtained only from the diet and is important in producing collagen.

Can You Get Too Many Antioxidants in Your Skin Care?

Some people have been concerned about the possibility of using too many antioxidants, particularly from food, as reported in The Daily Mail.  However, this is not as much a valid concern for skin care, for several reasons.  First of all, the skin is continuously bombarded with UV light from numerous sources, including low levels from fluorescent light (GE, 2012).  It is unlikely that you would be able to introduce so many antioxidants into your skin that it becomes dangerously anti-oxidant.  Second, while the verdict is out on whether free radicals cause aging or are merely a side product of natural degenerative aging processes, it is known that free radicals accumulate with time.  The older you are, the more likely you are to use antioxidant-rich topical products, the more free radicals that are likely there to be treating.

The one concern with antioxidants that needs to be addressed in the dermatological community is that of hormesis:  It is known antioxidants can lead to a decrease of normal biological response to free radicals.  This, in turn, could lead your skin to be more sensitive to oxidation for a period of time when you stop using antioxidant treatments.  Still, with over 80% of the visible signs of aging attributable to UV light, and certain antioxidants proven to boost the power of sunscreen up to 4 times (Acto dermato-venearologica, 1996), would you really ever want to stop using antioxidants?

My Routine

With that said, I use a combination of vitamin C and E in the morning, which are antioxidants long proven to increase the potency of UVA/UVB sunscreens (Acto dermato-venearologica, 1996).  Following up with another potent antioxidant within a sunscreen, like CoffeeBerry in Revale Skin SPF 15 ($110.00, Amazon.com) or the green tea concentrate EGCG in Topix Replenix CF Anti-Aging Photocomplex SPF 45 ($28.00, Amazon.com) are excellent options.

NEOVA Night Therapy

At night, I use a retinoid followed by a treatment with antioxidants, like NEOVA Night Therapy ($68.99, Amazon.com).   Again, I never worry about overloading my skin with too many antioxidants – in my opinion, it’s not much of a concern to begin with, and not really a concern at all if you continue to use antioxidants perpetually.

About The Author:  FutureDerm is pleased to welcome Leah Argento to our staff as a Contributing Writer. For a complete bio please visit our About page.

I love products that can multitask, as I’m sure you do too. Aren’t we all looking for products that can be used for multiple purposes? They not only save us money, but also coveted space in our cosmetic bags, particularly when traveling. So I thought I would take this opportunity to share my Top 3 multitaskers with you.

1. Neosporin ($7.14, Amazon.com) – An Acne Treatment?

Did you see the movie “My Big Fat Greek Wedding?”. If so, you will likely recall Toula’s father who used Windex as the cure for any ailment. Well, my family & friends will attest that I do the same, but with Neosporin.

You will find Neosporin in every bathroom in my house, in my purse, in my car, and even in the kitchen near the spice rack. Laugh all you want, but it works for just about EVERY type of skin-related emergency, from bug bites cuts & scrapes to hang nails to ingrown hairs. I’ve even used Neosporin as a spot treatment for acne. Though some believe it to be comedogenic due to its petroleum base, science says otherwise (Petroleum Jelly Facts & Myths). The active ingredients in Neosporin (Bacitracin, Neomycin, and Polymyxin B) are antibiotics that kill bacteria on your skin (Drugs.com) though it is not intended for use on large surface areas of the body. And, if a pimple is freshly popped, a dab of Neosporin can not only help with temporary relief of the pain and redness, it will help prevent acne scarring.

2.  Kiehl’s Lip Balm #1 ($7.99, Amazon.com) – An Eyelash Conditioner?

I have been using Kiehl’s Lip Balm #1 for longer than I care to state here and it has many uses beyond lips. When I entered menopause, my eye lashes became dry and brittle and started falling out whenever I used my eyelash curler. I tried every lash product on the market, spent gobs of money and…nothing…no results whatever! One evening, out of desperation, I dapped some of my lip balm on my eyelashes before bed and I’ve been doing so ever since. Using Kiehl’s Lip Balm #1 nightly as an eyelash conditioner has made all the difference. My lashes are no longer dry or brittle or falling out. I even use it under my eyes on top of my eye cream before bed (typically only in winter when the air is extremely dry). Concerned about the fact that Kiehl’s Lip Balm #1 contains Petrolatum? You shouldn’t be, as research from Happi (Household and Personal Product Industry) magazine indicates.

3.  Baby Oil ($11.78 for 2, Amazon.com) – An Eye Makeup Remover?

Sounds crazy, I know. Especially considering the hype surrounding the use of mineral oil. Nonetheless, I have been using baby oil as an eye makeup remover since I was a teenager. Back then it was a matter of economics. But as time went on I tried lots of eye makeup removers, expensive & otherwise. None worked as well. So I always went back to baby oil. And I still use it today. When I travel (and I travel alot on business) I take along a TSA-approved 3oz. size not only to remove eye makeup, but to use as a moisturizer following a shower, and as a cuticle softener. It creates a thin layer of quality barrier protection, inhibiting moisture from escaping and softening the skin (Personal Care Truth or Scare). In a pinch I also use baby oil in lieu of shaving cream.

One caveat for travelers – baby oil leaks so be sure to throw it in a ziplock bag before you throw it in your suitcase!

Readers -what are some of your favorite multitaskers? We’d love to hear from you!

Other FutureDerm.com Posts You May Enjoy

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LUSH is one of my favorite brands, though not for the typical reasons.  Usually I love skin care products because they have some special ingredient or delivery system.  Yet I love LUSH for a truly distinct reason:  Their products are super fun to use.  In an otherwise typical Thursday night shower, you can use a LUSH bath bomb, only to suddenly have an infusion of brightly-colored hydrating liquid flood your skin.  It’s definitely exciting – bath products for the young and rebellious at heart!

That said, I love the new LUSH Ocean Salt Scrub ($34.95, LUSH.com) not only because it is super fun to use, but also because it is beneficial to the skin.  LUSH sent me a few samples recently, but I was most ecstatic about this salt scrub.  The main ingredient, sea salt, has been found to improve skin hydration, improve barrier function, and reduce inflammation due to the high levels of magnesium therein (International Journal of Dermatology, 2009).  What’s more, sea salt is gently abrasive, so it helps to remove substances and debris.  A little-known fact about such exfoliators:  When the skin is well-exfoliated, sunscreens work better.  This is because sunscreens were developed to reflect and/or absorb light from a completely flat surface.  For those curious, physical sunscreens like titanium or zinc oxide were designed to reflect UV rays, whereas chemical sunscreens like avobenzone or Parsol 1789 absorb UV rays and transmit them to a different form of (non-damaging) energy.  No matter which type you choose, the fewer bumps and crevices on your skin, the better a sunscreen will work.

I also love the fresh grapefruit and lime infusions in LUSH Ocean Salt Scrub.  A few LUSH products can be a bit on the basic side, with a higher, more alkaline pH, but these acidic fruits in LUSH Ocean Salt Scrub make it more soothing to the skin, as the skin’s lipids and proteins are less irritated in lower pH solutions (Dermatologic Therapy, 2004).

LUSH Ocean Salt Scrub has become one of my favorite products.  I use it twice/week on my normal skin, and I notice a difference immediately.  I also use it daily in the shower.  It’s really unusual to find a product I think is best for both body and facial skin, but for those with normal to oily facial skin, I think you may find LUSH Ocean Salt Scrub acceptable for both facial and body exfoliating.  My boyfriend said, “Your skin is so smooth!”  Needless to say, I will be buying this again!

Product Rating:  10/10  (High or optimized concentration of effective ingredients:  3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  3/3.  Value for the money:  3/3.  Sunscreen: N/A).