Good Skin Care Reviews

In the harsh Pittsburgh winter, I often find myself needing to layer a moisturizer under my usual sunscreen.  Luckily, a company recently sent me Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Dry Skin ($34.99) for possible review.   The moisturizer is truly a dream:  it hydrates very well, glides on smooth, and, of course, has an array of proven anti-aging ingredients.  These include:

Star #1:  Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a water-soluble component of the vitamin B complex group.  Within the body, nicotinamide is incorporated into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP), coenzymes participating in a variety of necessary reactions for tissue respiration, lipid metabolism, and the breakdown of glycogen.

In the skin, topical application of niacinamide has been proven to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), increase replicative potential and histone acetyltransferase activity, and decrease inflammation and non-cystic acne.  According to Bissett et. al., niacinamide also reduces fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing), and increases elasticity.  There is also some evidence in a 2005 study by Draelos et. al. that niacinamide may help alleviate some of the symptoms of rosacea by increasing hydration and barrier function of the stratum corneum (uppermost layer of the skin).  All in all, a sensational ingredient.

Unlike Olay products, which contain up to 4% niacinamide, Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Dry Skin appears (from my best guess) to contain about 1-2% niacinamide.  However, I still like Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Dry Skin because of its other ingredients, such as:

Star #2:  Vitamins C and E

Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Dry Skin contains vitamin C as the somewhat photostable ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, which is a molecule of vitamin C attached to a fatty acid.  Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Dry Skin also contains vitamin E as both tocopherol acetate and tocopherol.  Although both are in somewhat low concentration in the product, vitamin C and vitamin E are antioxidants proven to synergistically enhance the power of one another.  The power duo has been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the effects of sunscreen.  The potent C-E combo has also been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of cancerous compounds known as nitrosamines, though this effect has only been demonstrated thus far in rats, not humans.

Star #3:  A very high SPF (50, with superstar zinc oxide!)

So, I know some of you are thinking, why buy Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Dry Skin for the combination of a fair concentration of niacinamide and a small amount of vitamins C and E?  Wouldn’t it be better to invest in two highly concentrated products?  Well, it is the potent SPF in Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Dry Skin that really sets it apart.  The moisturizer contains a whopping 11.16% zinc oxide in a formulation that glides on clear – no minor feat.  And I do love zinc oxide:  According to a 1999 study by Mitchnik et al., zinc oxide absorbs more UV light than competitor titanium dioxide in the long-wave UVA spectrum, from 340 to 380 nm, and hence provides more effective UVA protection.

Star #4:  Soy Extract

Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Dry Skin contains isolated genistein from soy, which is amazing.  A potent isoflavone, genistein has been shown in independent research studies as an anti-inflammatory antioxidant that can stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2002).   A study in the journal Dermatology further demonstrates that human trials demonstrated lightening of hyperpigmentation after use of soybean extract for two weeks.  Together, this means soy can increase the firmness, elasticity, suppleness, and dullness of skin.

Other Notes

Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Dry Skin also contains a few ingredients that have not been proven to have any significant anti-aging effects, including the protein atelocollagen, the amino acid serine, and isolated DNA.  It is likely that these three ingredients do nothing more than add an extra blast of hydration to the formulation, which isn’t really a bad thing.

I also find it interesting that the packaging and website of Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Dry Skin suggests that the product targets young women in their teens and twenties, when the formulation would be beneficial to everyone.  I’m no marketing expert, but I would gently suggest more generalized, non-age-specific packaging that suits men and women of all ages.

Bottom Line

I’m a huge fan of Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Dry Skin, and I will be using it all winter long.  For those of you with normal to oily skin, there is also Likewise Facial Moisturizer Plus Sun Protectant for Normal to Oily Skin, with the same anti-aging niacinamide, vitamin C, vitamin E, sun protection, and soy extract, but simply less hydrators.  If you’re interested, you may also enjoy visiting the Likewise official site, which contains more information about the brand and its line of products.

Hurray – it’s Cyber Monday!   This year, I’m trying to make 90+% of my purchases online, for both convenience and to avoid the dreaded wallet crunch of buying more than I intend to when I hit the stores.  Here are some of the best buys in beauty today:

• Amazon:  Amazon is offering Cyber deals all day today, including Lightning Deals available for a limited time only on this page.
  
• Bath & Body Works:  25% off any purchase with code CYBERMONDAY25OFF, 11/28 through 11/29.  Get an additional 10% cash back if you sign up and make your purchase through eBates.com (it’s free)!
• Bella Beauty: 25% off with code BF25, 11/25 through 11/28.
• Bella il Fiore: 2% off from 11/25 through 11/28 with code BELLA25.
• Benefit: Free shipping with code THANKS, expires 11/28.
• Bliss USA: 30% off select Bliss and REmede sets + select Bliss, Remede, and Elemis best sellers, no code necessary, 11/24 through 11/29.  20% off all Bliss, Remede, Elemis product purchases with code THANKS20, expires 12/5.
• Bliss UK: 20% off all orders with code AFFDEC20, expires 12/31, one use per customer.
• Bloomingdales: Free shipping with code FREESHIP11, expires 11/28.
• The Body Shop: 3 for $30 on all products + free shipping, 11/28 only.
• Bobbi Brown: 3 best-selling treats + free shipping on all orders, 11/22 through 11/29.
• Borghese: 25% off entire purchase with code 25CYBER11, 12PM EST through 4PM EST 11/28.
• Butter London: 30% off with code CELEBRATE11, expires 11/30.
• C.O. Bigelow: $10 off $75+ orders with code BIGTHANKS, expires 11/28.
• Carol’s Daughter: Spend $35, save $5; spend $50, save $10; spend $100, save $25, valid 11/28 through 11/30.
• Chantecaille: Free Les Macarons palette + free shipping with $150+ purchase with code SHOPCHIC, 11/25 through 11/28.
• Clarins: Free 3 piece gift with $40+ order with code THANKS, expires 11/27.
• Clarisonic: All Clarisonic skincare pairs purchased between 11/25 through 11/29 will be 20% off.
• Clinique: Cyber Monday — pick 3 of 8 treats + free shipping, no code necessary, 11/28 only.
• Cult Nails: Polishes for $7.75 each, treatments for $6.00 each.
• DHC:  10% off, no code necessary, 11/28 only.
• Dr. Brandt:   Lineless Eye Cream for $29 (reg $60), Flaws No More for $39 (reg $80)
• Eve Pearl: 40% to 55% off Eve Pearl products with code BPTG2011, starts 11/24 11AM EST through 11/28 11PM EST. While supplies last.
• EvolutionMan: Free Cleanse & Shave ($20 value) with any purchase, no code necessary, 11/25 through 11/28.
• Face Atelier:  30% off with code THANKS, expires 11/28.
• Giorgio Armani: 20% off + free 2nd day shipping on $75+ orders with code GAHOLIDAY1, expires 11/29.  20% off + free 2nd day shipping + 6 minis ($42 value) on $125+ orders with code GAHOLIDAY4, valid 11/27 through 11/29.
• Inglot USA:  15% off all online orders + free shipping 11/24 (3AM EST) through 11/28 (3AM EST).
• John Masters Organics: 25% off site wide with code HOLIDAY11, noon EST 11/23 through 11/28.
• Jordana: 25% off + free shipping with code CYBER, 11/28 8AM PST through 11/29 8AM PST.
• Josie Maran: 25% off with code GIVEBACK, 11/25 through 11/28.
• Kate Somerville: 30% off with code HOLIDAY2011, 11/25 through 11/28.
• Kerastase:  20% off $100+ orders for Kerastase members, 11/23 through 11/29.
• Kiehls: Free shipping + deluxe trio of your choice on $30+ orders with code BIGTREAT, 11/28 only.
• L’Occitane: $10 gift card with any $50+ purchase with code GIFT10, 11/28 only.
• LA Splash Cosmetics: 40% off select products, 11/23 through 11/30.
• Lab Series:  25% off all orders + free standard shipping, 11/28 through 12/2.
• Lancome:  Free shipping now through 12/24.  Receive four-piece sample plus free shipping with $45+ orders with code NOVLAN, expires 11/30.
• Lisa Hoffman Beauty: Free signature votive candle and deluxe samples ($15 value) with $65+ purchases, free shipping on $50+ purchases.
• Milani: 50% off with code CYBER + free shipping, 11/28 8AM PST through 11/29 8AM PST.
• Origins: $10 off + free shipping on $25+ purchases with code TENOFF, expires 11/28.
• Philip B.: 20% off all gift sets with code NOV2011.
• philosophy:  You can get 10% off with code FRIENDS, expires 12/24.
• Rain Cosmetics: 40% off all lip products. No code needed for either promotion.
• Sephora:  Get 10% cash back when you sign up and make a purchase through the free service eBates.
• Shiro Cosmetics: 30% off with code 30OFF30, expires 11/28.
• shu uemura: 20% off with code WISH2011, 11/24 through 11/29, free shipping on $50+ orders.
• Smashbox: 20% off with code SBXFF11, expires 11/28.
• Somme Institute: 40% off site wide 11/24 through 11/29.
• Stila Cosmetics: Warehouse sale, up to 80% off, valid 11/28 through 12/2.
• Sugarpill: 20% off with code PINKWEEKEND, 11/26 through 11/28.
• Three Custom Color Specialists:  30% off site wide with code CYBER11, valid 11/28 only.
• ULTA: $3.50 off any $10 purchase with code 61733 (exclusions apply); $10 off any $60 purchase with code 18137 (exclusions apply), expires 12/2. Free shipping on $25+ orders with code HOLIDAYSHIP25.  Get 10% cash back on all purchases made through eBates (it’s free)!
• YSL: 20% off + free shipping; spend $100+ get a free gift, with code MONDAY, 11/28 through 11/30.

Please note the above prices are only available on Cyber Monday (11/28/11), unless otherwise specified.  FutureDerm.com is not responsible for any deals that are listed above that are not valid for any reason, as per our Policies page.  However, if you attempt to use one of the above deals and it is not valid, please let us know in Comments below, or tell us at nicki[at] futurederm [dot]com!  Thanks very much!

If you’re more Gwen Stefani than Gwyneth Paltrow, and happen to be in Pittsburgh, then Verve 360 Degrees of Wellness Pittsburgh is the salon for you.  It’s a cross between modern hipster and trendy sophisticate, with brick-walled interior, urban lighting, and upscale yet unpretentious services and products.  For instance, the nail polish offered is not the typical OPI or Essie, but the very modern indie brand Zoya.  Even the music played is for a woman of taste – not stuck-up, but definitely hip, well-versed and selective.

I chose to get a mani-pedi at Verve 360 and was definitely pleased.  The manicurist, Alyssa, was friendly and accommodating, and the Zoya nail polish treatment has managed to last a full week with very minor chipping.  (Which, due to my penchant for near-constant typing, is something of a major feat.)   I’m definitely pleased with the service, and I’ll be back again soon!

I received a mani-pedi from Verve 360 in exchange for this review, with previous understanding from Verve 360 that the compensation would not guarantee a positive review. 

PMMA is often used as a shatter-resistant substitute for glass.

Every time you turn around, it seems there’s a new hot ingredient appearing in the world of cosmetic chemistry.  One such ingredient is polymethyl methacrylate, or PMMA.  Long used by orthopaedic surgeons in bone cement for joint replacement or to replace a skull bone defect, PMMA got its start in cosmetics as an injectable in Artecoll® (PMMA suspended in bovine collagen) and MetaCrill® (PMMA suspended in a chemical colloid).  As an injectable, it is used to treat an array of conditions for 1-3 months per treatment, ranging from acne and scarring to a variety of facial lines, including frown lines, smoker’s lines, and Marionette lines. 

In skin care and beauty products, PMMA may act as a very mild form of sunscreen.  According to its Plexiglas Acrylic Data sheet, PMMA filters ultraviolet (UV) light at wavelengths similar to ordinary window glass, about 300-400 nm.  It does this by reflecting light away from your skin.  Considering the UVB range is 280-315 nm and the UVA range is 320-400 nm, beauty products containing a high concentration of PMMA should be tested for their SPF potential. 

Other than that, PMMA offers hydration as a lubrication enhancer in cosmetics. Once purified and refined, PMMA helps to fill in wrinkles and provide a “gliding” application (Sekisui Plastics, Inc.), in a manner somewhat similar to the silicones found in many beauty products.  It is unlikely to have any prolonged anti-aging effects, aside from reflecting UV light.

Is PMMA safe? 

PMMA has been proven to be compatible with human tissue, making it an important material for transplants and prosthetics in the fields of orthopedics and ophthalmology.  A five-year safety study published in Dermatologic Surgery (2007) found that the safety profile of the product is consistent with that of other soft tissue injectable products, meaning that 2/145 (1.3%) participants at the end of the study had developed granulomas.  Granulomas initially appear as areas of inflamed tissue, and are caused by various assortments of infilitrates of immune cells.  While injectable-linked granulomas typically improve with therapy, they are certainly undesirable. 

It has not yet been proven whether or not PMMA in topically-applied beauty products causes granulomas, but it is highly unlikely, considering that granulomas are associated with injectables in general.  A rare sensitivity to methacrylates could cause a potential problem:  The FDA, in a study about the use of PMMA in artificial nails, found that “traces of the reactive monomers could result in an adverse reaction, such as redness, swelling, and pain in the nail bed, among people who have become sensitive (allergic) to methacrylates.” 

Bottom Line

Based on the evidence available thus far, PMMA is perfectly safe in topically-applied beauty products (e.g., skin care, cosmetics) unless you have a rare sensitivity to methacrylates.  When used as an injectable, PMMA has been associated with a low risk of granulomas, like many other cosmetic fillers.

Other Posts You May Enjoy

• Daily Question:  Is Propylene Glycol Harmful in Beauty Products?
• Daily Question:  Should I Be Worried about Phthalates in Beauty Products?

Rodan + Fields designed a roller.  Clarisonic has the Opal.  Everywhere you look, it seems new products are emerging to increase the efficacy of your skin care.  Yet Dior was the first major company to design a cream that is supposed to increase the efficacy of other creams.  Called Dior Capture Totale Eyes Essential Eye Boosting Serum ($95.00, Amazon.com), the serum claims to increase the efficacy of any skin care cream up to 4x, as well as to leave the eye area appearing “well-rested” and “contoured.”

The Discrepancy with the Claim

The issue here is that Dior Capture Totale Eyes Essential Eye Boosting Serum may in fact boost the efficacy of undereye treatments up to 4x – that is, if dry skin is your major issue.  Dior Capture Totale Eyes Essential Eye Boosting Serum contains a very high concentration of hydrating ingredients, including the cyclopentasiloxane, ethylhexyl stearate, glycerin, butylene glycol, cetyl and stearyl alcohols, mango seed oil, dimethicone, isoparaffin, and sodium hyaluronate.  It will therefore boost the efficacy of any cream designed for dry skin extremely well.  However, if you are using a treatment for undereye puffiness or fine lines or wrinkles, it is very unlikely Dior Capture Totale Eyes Essential Eye Boosting Serum will boost the efficacy of these products up to 4x.  There are simply just no chemical properties of the ingredients that will enable it to do so. 

Well-formulated

Despite this, I really like Dior Capture Totale Eyes Essential Eye Boosting Serum.  The hydrating ingredients are wonderful, particularly for the upcoming winter months, but what really makes it is the elegance of the formulation.  The serum is fluid and light weight, and absorbs into the skin quickly. 

I also appreciate the skin brightening properties that come from the inclusion of soy in this product.  Soy is rich in numerous nutrients, including small proteins, soybean trypsin inhibitor (STI), Bowman-Birk inhibitor (BBI), amino acids, essential fatty acids, isoflavones, lecithins, mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids, saponins, phytosterols, phytic acid, minerals and vitamins.  One potent isoflavone contained in soy is genistein, which has been shown in independent research studies as an anti-inflammatory antioxidant that can stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2002).   A study in the journal Dermatology further demonstrates that human trials demonstrated lightening of hyperpigmentation after use of soybean extract for two weeks.  Together, this means soy can increase the firmness, elasticity, suppleness, and dullness of skin.

How to Use

Dior Capture Totale Eyes Essential Eye Boosting Serum has so many hydrators, it is best to start use when you are confident that you do not have clogged pores or are already experiencing a number of breakouts.  This is because Dior Capture Totale Eyes Essential Eye Boosting Serum includes a number of occlusive agents (e.g., silicones, oils, and waxes) that can trap comedogenic ingredients under the skin.  If you feel you may have clogged pores, it may be best to use a cleanser with salicyclic acid first, like Rodan + Fields ProActiv Foaming Cleanser ($19.50, Amazon.com). 

Bottom Line

Perfect for the upcoming winter months, Dior Capture Totale Eyes Essential Eye Boosting Serum includes one of the highest concentrations of hydrating ingredients that I have ever seen in a luxury product, but the formulation is well-done and surprisingly light.  My recommendations are two-fold:  

• One, despite the claims, do not expect this product to boost the efficacy of products designed for fine lines, wrinkles, or puffiness by 4x.  I doubt it would happen.  However, it is likely you will notice a revolution in hydration, and an increase in brightness.   
• Two, if you suspect your pores are clogged (i.e., you are experiencing breakouts, or see blackheads), use a very mild salicyclic acid cleanser on your face before beginning use of Dior Capture Totale Eyes Essential Eye Boosting Serum. 

Overall, however, I love this product.  I feel it is very high-quality and well-done, and it makes an excellent and luxurious hydrator.  Kudos, Dior.  Product Rating:  8/10  (High or optimized concentration of proven ingredients:  3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology:  3/3.  Value:  2/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1, though polymethyl methacrylate may have some reflective properties.)     

Aqua (Water), Cyclopentasiloxane, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Steareth-21, Phenoxyethanol, Decyloxazolidinone, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Oil, Polyethylene, Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Flour, Steareth-2, Sorbitol, Dimethicone, Polyacrylamide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Parfum (Fragrance), Algin, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Protein, Chlorphenesin, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Faex (Yeast Extract), Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tetrasodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Calcium Pantetheine Sulfonate, Tromethamine, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cellulose Gum, Carbomer, Laureth-7, Methylparaben, Aframomum Angustifolium Seed Extract, Polysorbate 20, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Potentilla Erecta Root Extract, Ethylparaben, Kluyveromyces Extract, Butylparaben, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Root Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Citronellol, Geraniol, Propylparaben, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide – 3, Sodium Metabisulfite, BHT.

Jessica Simpson may be aglow these days with the light of pregnancy, but that doesn’t mean that she isn’t getting a little help from the moisturizer bottles as well.  For her new beauty line, Beauty Mint, Ms. Simpson teamed up with Hollywood facialist Nerida Joy to design an online-based consultation system.  The free consultation will assign you a “Beauty Sign” of three numbers based upon your answers to 17 specific skin-related questions.   As Ms. Joy discussed with New Beauty, “We want to determine what type of skin you have, where it is now and where it can go from here…the hope is to eliminate the confusion, guesswork and wasted money and direct women to a more simplified routine with products that will work for them.”  The questions are as follows:

• 1.  What is your natural skin tone?
• 2.  What is your age?
• 3.  Is your skin oily, combination, or dry?
• 4.  Does your skin tend to tan or burn?
• 5.  How often do you breakout?
• 6.  Do you suffer from allergy, itchiness, or rosacea?
• 7.  Is firmness a concern for you?
• 8.  Are fine lines and wrinkles a concern for you?
• 9.  Is pore size a concern for you?
• 10.  Is brightening a wish from your skin line?
• 11.  Is discoloration an issue for you?
• 12.  Is even tone a wish from your skin line?
• 13.  Are puffiness and dark circles under the eyes a concern?
• 14.  Are fine lines and wrinkles under the eyes a concern?
• 15.  What is the amount of time you spend on your skin care routine?
• 16.  How much stress do you experience?
• 17.  Where do you usually buy your skin care?

Many women often look for the perfect mask or facial, only to find the treatment leaves their skin more dry or irritated than before they started.  Enter the Proactiv Solution Refining Mask ($5.55, Amazon.com), designed to reduce acne and refine the pores.  The secret is a very high concentration of both kaolin and sulfur, which together work to reduce inflammation and increase the efficacy of other anti-acne treatments, particularly benzoyl peroxide.  For more, read on:

Kaolin

Kaolin, a hydrated silicate of aluminum, has been established as an effective adsorbent for hundreds of years.  Kaolin has long been used to treat skin erythema, eczema, and inflammatory skin disorders.  It is an adsorbent ingredient that has been proven to absorb excess oil on the skin, as mentioned in The Journal of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics.  In fact, kaolin is so adsorbent makes me hesitant to recommend this to anyone with dry skin!

Sulfur

Sulfur is an important mineral component of vitamin B, collagen, keratin, and several amino acids.  According to The Encyclopedia of Skin and Skin Disorders, sulfur is thought to slow bacterial growth as it dissolves the top layer of the skin and slows oil-gland activity within the skin.  Sulfur is included in anti-acne over-the-counter products in concentrations up to 10 percent, but is only included in 6% concentration in the Proactiv Solution Refining Mask.  Sulfur is likely to be in 6% rather than 10% concentration to prevent possible irritation, as the Proactiv line contains benzoyl peroxide.  Though sulfur and benzoyl peroxide together have been proven in a study from the Journal of the Canadian Medical Society to be more effective than either agent alone, it also heightens the potential for the agents to be irritating (The Encyclopedia of Skin and Skin Disorders).   At just 6%, however, the potential for the sulfur in the Proactiv Solution Refining Mask to be irritating is significantly reduced.

Bottom Line

The Proactiv Solution Refining Mask is a worthwhile addition to any anti-acne skin regimen.  I personally will be using mine over a 2% topical benzoyl peroxide solution, like Neutrogena On the Spot Acne Treatment ($5.56, Amazon.com), then rinsing, then reapplying the 2% topical benzoyl peroxide solution!  

When I was a child, I used to envy other girls who were born with nice, thick hair that never seemed to fall into piecey-looking strands.  ”Don’t worry,” my mother would say, “yours will grow in thicker.”  Well, with yet another birthday approaching next week (with no less than twenty-seven candles), it’s suddenly occurred to me:  this is it.  So it’s time to make the most of what I’ve been given with the following ingredients:

1.  Poly beta amino ester-1

The Langer lab (at MIT) developed poly beta amino ester-1, an ingredient that coats each hair shaft with “thickening points” that essentially work like Post-It notes, grabbing at one another while leaving space between each strand.  In essence, this means you get all of the punch (volume) with none of the crunch (stickiness)!  The ingredient is available in Living Proof Full Thickening Cream ($24.00, Amazon.com) and all of the Living Proof products.

I’ve used Living Proof Full Thickening Cream on the crown of my head for a few months now.  From my personal experience, it is best to use only a small amount of Living Proof Full Thickening Cream evenly on your hair, or else your hair will look more “wet” than “thick.”  I also noticed much more results from the Living Proof Full Thickening Cream than the shampoo or the conditioner.

2.  Intra-Cylane

Cosmetic giant L’Oréal introduced the Fiberceutic line ($20.99, Amazon.com), which fills the hair with Intra-Cylane, a flexible soft fiber.  Activated by water, Intra-Cylane deposits in the hair as evaporation takes place.  It is designed to help reinforce the protective keratin layer of hair.  According to L’Oréal celebrity stylist Eva Scrivo, “L’Oréal’s Fiberceutic line is similar to Restylane or Juvederm in its effect…similar to how these fillers help to plump and smooth the lines on the face, Intra-Cylane fills each hair strand with a flexible soft fiber, increasing the density.”  If the strand-plumping Fiberceutic line is used first, followed by the strand-separating Living Proof products, hair can seem quite a bit thicker!

3.  Viviscal®

Viviscal® (shown above), a marine protein supplement, is the currently the best-selling supplement worldwide (Amazon.com, 2011).  Although it has been around for years, it recently gained popularity as Hollywood stylists started using it on celebrities like Kate Hudson (In StyleMakeover, 2011). Viviscal® has been shown to treat alopecia areata and androgen-related hair loss in a 1992 study in the (Journal of International Medical Research, 1992).  It has been suggested marine protein may provide missing amino acids to the hair follicle that aid in hair growth (Journal of International Medical Research, 1992). It has also been hypothesized the silica compound component of Viviscal® may be important, as silica supplements have been associated with increased hair growth, though there are few studies to substantiate this (Hair Savers for Women, 2000).  At any rate, a few readers have written to me after my first review of Viviscal® and have told me they noticed thicker and/or longer hair in five to eight weeks.

Bottom Line

You don’t have to resort to hair extensions if you want thicker hair:  the developments of poly amino beta ester-1, Intra-Cyclane, and Viviscal can make your own hair thicker!

Top photo source:  Hair salon, originally uploaded by Natalija Chinni – Certified Hair Salon.

Every time you turn around, it seems there’s a new ingredient to avoid on someone’s warning list.  Yet one class of potential toxins seems to be on everyone’s “avoid” list:  phthalates.  In beauty products, DBP (di-n-butyl phthalate) and DEP (diethyl phthalate) are most commonly found, in all classes of products ranging from hand lotions, nail polishes, deodorants, perfumes and cologne, aftershave lotions, shampoos, and hair gels.  A third type, BzBP (benzylbutyl phthalate) is also used in some personal care products.

How the concern rose

Some experts tend not to be alarmed by the vast majority of animal studies.  This is because animal studies can expose rodents to concentrations of compounds hundreds to thousands of times higher than the concentrations humans are exposed to with the typical use of products.  That is part of the reason why many experts were not alarmed at first when high exposures of phthalates in rodents were found to change hormone levels and cause birth defects (CDC Third Annual Report, 2005).

In 2008, the United States National Research Council recommended that the cumulative effects of phthalates and other antiandrogens be investigated. It criticized US EPA guidances, which stipulate that, when examining cumulative effects, the chemicals examined should have similar mechanisms of action or similar structures, as too restrictive. It recommended instead that the effects of chemicals that cause similar adverse outcomes should be examined cumulatively, with other antiandrogens.

Work published in the journal Toxicology and Industrial Health reveals that male reproductive development is acutely sensitive to some phthalates. For example, the two phthalates most common in skin care products, dibutyl phthalate (DBP) and diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP), produced dramatic changes in male sexual characteristics (e.g., hypospadias, decreased development) when exposure took place in utero, at levels far beneath those of previous toxicological concern.  Dr. Shanna Swan, an epidemiologist at the University of Rochester Medical School, made headlines when she found a direct correlation between the levels of phthalates in a mother’s urine and the reproductive problems in young boys (CBS News, 2010).

What about breast cancer?

Although numerous reports have reported phthalates like DEP increase the risk of breast cancer, some research has shown that exposure to butylbenzyl phthalate (BBzP) of the monobenzyl phthalate (MBzP) metabolite shows a negative association with breast cancer (Odds ratio=0.46, p value for trend, p<.008).  BBzP is less common than DEP, found in about one-third of products.  It is proposed this finding may be associated with the demethylation of the estrogen receptor complex in breast cancer cells of BBzP resulting in a negative effect (Environmental Health Perspectives, 2010).  Still, more research needs to be done to determine if this is the case, so don’t run out and slather BBzP on your skin anytime soon!

Bottom Line

Over the past several years, a great deal of debate has risen over the safety of phthalates.  Industry argues that the evidence is not substantial enough to demonstrate significant risk, as no single study has yet confirmed exposure to phthalates causes cancer or inhibits male reproductive tract growth.  Yet even the CDC has gone so far as to advise pregnant women not to use cosmetics products that contain phthalates.  Until more evidence is presented, it may be best to avoid phthalates in beauty products.  Some phthalate-free brands include:

• Aubrey Organics
• Butter London
• Burt’s Bees
• Eco Bella Organics
• Honeybee Gardens
• Tom’s of Maine