Good Skin Care Reviews

In preparation for my own video blog segment (debuting June 17!), I’ve been watching more online videos in my spare time.  This one, featuring the facial changes of a man, JK Keller, every day for 8 years, made me wonder:  What exactly makes someone appear older?  And what can be done to delay or prevent the process altogether?

Some of the major factors, according to Dr. Susan C. Taylor, board-certified dermatologist and author of Rx for Brown Skin, include:

1.) UV light-induced skin damage (perhaps the most prominent).
2.) genetic factors;
3.) telomere shortening and chromosomal alterations;
4.) free radical generation (in excess of free radicals necessary for normal metabolism).

1.  UV Radiation

UV radiation generates free radicals, which turn on matrix metalloproteinases (enzymes). In a 1996 study by Fisher et al., it was found that UV exposure increase MMPs (and hence collagen production) in three steps, as mentioned in Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology. One, UV exposure increases the production of the transcription factor c-jun. Two, the “extra” c-jun combines with another transcription factor already present in high concentration, c-fos, to produce activator protein, AP-1. Three, AP-1 activates the MMP genes, which produce collagenase, gelatinase, and stromelysin-1. It may further be noted that there are twenty-three human MMPs, and MMP-1 has been found in studies to be the MMP responsible for collagen degradation. And, similar to how natural antioxidants keep free radicals in check, the body naturally produces Tissue Inhibitors (TMPs) to keep levels of MMPs down. Unfortunately, however, as people age, MMP activity increases, while levels of Tissue Inhibitors (TMPs) decrease.

Matrix metalloproteinase activity can be stopped in two ways. The first is to prevent their production. This is best done with a sunscreen with high UVB protection (UVB has been directly liked to MMP production by Fisher et al.) Fortunately, the best UVB protection is easy to find: look for the sunscreen with the highest sun protection factor (SPF), a direct measure of UVB protection. The second method is to stop the degrading activities of the MMPs. According to Dr. Wexler, there are several substances that act as MMP inhibitors (MMPis): epigallocatechin-3-gallate (a derivative of green tea), retinoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid), beta-carotene, DHEA (though this is controversial), polysaccharides, vitamin E, and vitamin C, and flavonoids. Research has shown all of these inhibit MMPs and increase TIMPs. Patricia Wexler’s MMPi Skin Regeneration Serum, available at Bath and Body Works stores, uses MMPis to inhibit MMP activity in skin cells by more than 80% (statistic from drpatriciawexlermd.com).

What you can do: Wear a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 (I prefer 50+, even though there’s about a 0.8% difference per mg/cm²!) each and every day.  Avoid UV light as much as possible between the hours of 10 AM and 4 PM.  Stay protected on the airplane if you travel (UV light is incredibly strong on planes).  And if you’re going to the beach, keep reapplying sunscreen at least every 3 hours!

2.  Genetic factors

Skin aging is the result of genetic, as well as environmental, factors. In several lower species, genes that contribute to aging have been identified, and it is believed that corresponding genes may play a role in aging of humans.

What may delay these factors of aging: Studies in mice have shown that caloric restriction increases the life of the mice and the expression of sirt1 genes, which code for sirtuins that may be responsible for prolonging the life of cells by turning off unnecessary gene expression.

In human skin, caloric restriction has also been proposed to decrease contact dermatitis, decrease free radical formation, and potentially preserving the softened, youthful state of collagen by decreasing the formation of advanced glycation endproduct glucosepane.  Still, even though most Americans are now overweight, aalways talk to your physician before beginning any sort of diet regimen.

3.  Telomere shortening and chromosomal alterations

Telomeres are repeated patterns of DNA sequences (TTAGGG) found at the end of chromosomes. With each round of DNA replication, telomeres shorten. Older adults have shorter telomeres compared with younger adults and children; when telomeres reach a certain shortened length, the cell is no longer able to divide, and cell death occurs. In fact, according to this study, the size of telomeres found in adrenal (kidney) chromosomes shortens by about 0.24% per year of human life. The telomere theory of aging is also supported by patients with Werner’s Syndrome, a rare disease in which aging is accelerated. Although an enzyme, telomerase, is able to make telomeric sequences to replace shortened sequences, and the introduction of telomerase into retinal epithelial cells and fibroblasts has been shown in this 1994 study by Bodnar et. al.to regenerate telomeres, telomerase is also reactivated in cancer cells, and so the introduction of telomerase into normal human cells to fight aging is not in fact a sound therapy at all.

Other chromosomal alterations reported by Dr. Susan C. Taylor in Cosmetic Dermatology include a defective DNA helicase, which is the enzyme used to uncoil DNA prior to each round of replication. It has been found that a mutation in DNA helicase is responsible for Werner’s Syndrome and the premature aging symptoms that result. In another disease resulting in accelerated aging, progeria, a misregulation of mitosis has been identified as the major cause.

What you can do: Not much.  It has been found that two people of the same age may have vastly different telomere size, but little difference in their apparent skin physiology.  Apparently, 0.001 mm does not measure the same in everyone on a DNA scale!  With that said, no skin care technologies or therapies have ever been proven to delay the shortening of, or to regenerate, telomeres.

4.  Free radical generation

The free radical theory of aging has existed since the 1950’s by Denham Harman. The theory essentially states that free radical processes cumulatively lead you to age. Free radical generating processes include UV exposure, environmental pollutants, and smoking, and also mandatory processes, like respiration and metabolism. As respiration and metabolism are necessary for life to continue, it is impossible to eradicate free radical production in the body completely. For this reason, it has been proposed by deGrey in Ending Aging (amongst others) that free radicals are a natural byproduct of life that should not necessarily be neutralized with antioxidants. According to Dr. Jeannette Graf in Cosmetic Dermatology, newfound technologies like “spin traps” have been developed to eradicate only the rare free radicals that are created when an aberrant electron “spins” out of its orbit. (Spin traps, being developoed by Dr. J. Carney and his associates, are not yet available in skin care products.)

What you can do to prevent free radical generation: Most experts emphatically recommend the use of topical antioxidants, with support from numerous nutritional studies that demonstrate eating antioxidant-rich fruits and vegetables helps to prevent aging and certain diseases. As topical application of an ingredient results in a maximal absorption of about 33% of the ingredient, according to this 2002 study by Briggs et. al., so applying topical antioxidants and consuming them through the diet should have synonymous effects. In addition, while studies at MIT have suggested that oxygen free radicals do not contribute to a shortened lifespan, another study has demonstrated that oxygen free radicals can damage the DNA of cultured skin cells. As such, free radical-induced aging seems to be one of the only causes we can treat: eat a diet rich in antioxidants and apply a multitude of topical antioxidants to eradicate free radical production.

To eat as many antioxidant-rich vegetables as possible, according to this 2006 study by the American Botanical Council, vegetables were found to retain 80% of their raw antioxidant capacity when steamed, but just 30% when boiled. Also, of 27 vegetables, those with the highest antioxidant capacity were artichokes, beetroot, cabbage, broccoli, red chicory, red chili, and yellow pepper, so eat up!

To maximize the benefit of topically applied antioxidants, use products with network antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin E, lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10 and glutathione), and/or strong antioxidants, such as coffeeberry, idebenone, vitamin E and kinetin.

Why Does this Video Look Familiar?

Turns out this video has been the culprit of a phenomenon known as “lifejacking,” in which users are tricked into clicking links that mark the clicked site as one of your Facebook “likes.” These likes then show up on your profile and Facebook News Feed so your friends can see the link and click it, allowing the vicious cycle to continue.

In Summary

It seems many of the visible signs of skin aging really can be delayed with vigilant application of sunscreen, rigorous ingestion and topical application of antioxidants, and the use of retinoids and other skin care ingredients that stimulate the skin to renew itself.  The same thing that makes aging so tricky – the fact that it happens so gradually – can be used to your advantage as you do just a little every day to delay, prevent, and even reverse a few signs of the process.

What are your favorite anti-aging tricks?  Let us know in Comments below, and be sure to visit the FutureDerm.com fan page, where all questions are now answered!

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Because botanical and fruit extracts contain a multitude of vitamins, amino acids and flavonoids that feed the skin, they can easily ramp up the effectiveness of product or service without the addition of too many ingredients. Several examples of extracts that are rich in these components include the following:

Calendula extract: This extract has properties that make it an excellent ingredient in cleansers for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive and sunburned skin. The cleansing properties of calendula extract are attributed to saponin, a natural surfactant that foams and lathers when agitated in water, calendula extract also contains mucilage, a polysaccharide that has humectant and soothing properties making it a moisturizing and anti-inflammatory ingredient. This ingredient also contains flavonoids, thus exhibiting antioxidant properties.

Ginkgo bilobo extract: This extract can be a useful ingredient in any number of products, expecially leave-on products, such as facial moisturizers and massage oil. It has been studied as an anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and sun care ingredient. In fact, the main, flavonoids proven to be effective in treating mature and sun-damaged skin are found in ginko biloba extract. Because flavonoids have the ability to penetrate the epidermal skin layer, they have some effect on the dermal layer as well. This property alone makes ginkgo biloba extract a noteworthy ingredient.

Watermelon extract: Rich in vitamin C and amino acids, watermelon extract is a powerful antioxidant and skin-conditioning ingredient. Becasue of its antioxidant activity, watermelon extract is an effective ingredient for fighting free radicals released by sun exposure. The vitamin C content of this fruit extract also works well to gently exfoliate the skin without the use of physical exfoliants. True to form, this ingredient helps promote skin-cell regeneration, revealing a healthy, glowing skin tone. Watermelon extract lends itself well to both leave-on and rince-off products, including masks, cleansers and moisturizers for the face and body.

As consumers continue to demand natural and organic products, researchers are honing in on the power of a multitude of plant life for their skin benefits. Lavandou is is happy to offer the best in botanical and Organic products:

• Sothys
• Beauty Garden – by Sothys
• YonKa of Paris

When considering which extracts are best suited for your skin, it is important to understand the role various chemicals components play in skin care:

Vitamin A:  Also know as retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinoic acid, is a tried and true anti-aging ingredient. Research has show that when applied topically, vitamin A can improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. As the skin ages, collagen production decreases, leading to thinner, less taut skin. Viotamin A has been show to increase the production of procollagen, the precursor to collagen production, and glycosaminoglycan, which is known to retain significant amounts of water. Thus, vitamin A aids in the the maintenance of skin structure and moisturization to reduce the signs of aging.

Vitamins C & E: Vitamin C and E are powerful antioxidants that can combat free radicals caused by sun exposure. Free radicals act as scavengers looking to find suitable mates. As a result, they attack structural components of the skin, such as collagen and elastin, which can lead to aging in the form of fine lines and wrinkles. Although vitamin A helps restore the skin post-aging, vitamins C and E are more preventive ingredients.

Flavonoids: Flavonoids are chemical components responsible for giving fruits, vegetables and plants their color. They are also known to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. Although most cosmetic ingredients merely treat the outermost layer of the skin, studies have shown that some flavonoids exhibit activity in both the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. Such flavonoids are excellent chemicals components for anti-aging and after-sun products, providing both short-term and long-term results. This is especially useful in tackling the damage caused by UVA (Aging) rays, which affect deeper layers of the skin, resulting in damage that isn’t immediately apparent.

Amino acids: Amino acids also play an important role in maintaining healthy, youthful skin. They are the building blocks of protein and because human skin is made of fibrous protein, amino acids are essential. The body can produce the majority of the amino acids it needs; however, essential amino acids cannot be produced by the body and therefore must be introduced via ingestion or applied topically. Because proper skin function and development is reliant on amino acids, they play an important role in the delivery and function of other skin care ingredients.

Lavandou is proud to represent the top brands that have developed a complete line of skin care products utilizing the finest chemical components available. Learn more:

• Jan Marini Skin Research
• Cellex-C
• MD Formulations

The peptide explosion began in the late 1980′s, when French scientiest JP Borel and F. Maquart found that the copper peptide pal-GHK (shorthand for the string of amino acids comprising the peptide) stimulated collagen synthesis, improved wound healing and played an overall role in regulating the skin remodeling process. In the late 90′s, another collagen pentapeptide fragment began making news: pal-KTTS. Palmitoyl pentapeptide, its generic name, is currently used in dozens of cosmetic products.

Pal-KTTS became the talk of the town after laboratory studies presented at the 20th World Congress of Dermatology in Paris in 2002 showed it could increase collagen synthesis. Later clinical studies indicated that applications of 3% Matrixyl (the proprietary name of the palmitoyl pentapeptide patented by French pharmaceutical giant Sederma) could significantly decrease both wrinkle depth and volue by as much as 45%. Peptides, such as Matrixyl, have made an important contribution to antiaging skin care.

Jan Marini Skin Care has been one of the leading skincare companies to take advantage of this newly discovered technology within their Age Intervention line.

We get the question all the time: ‘What is the difference between the products sold at mass retail outlets and the Professional Skincare products’?  The short answer is: MARKETING.  This question comes up more often when the economy is weak and rightfully so as there is a notable gap in price points between the mass retail products and the Professional product lines.

The question was presented to Dr. Claudia Aguirre and her answer was a little more in-depth:  “The answer is yes. Although we cannot speak for every company out there, generally, mass market brands are more sensitive to pricing and will therefore use cheaper or fewer active ingredients. For example, a mass market brand will opt for a very low concentration of an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) to avoid potential issues with irritation in the general population. Professional products are sold with the added benefit of a thorough skin analysis and education from a professional skin care therapist. Therefore, these prescribed products will have higher levels of actives that will deliver results to those clients in need. Furthermore, some ingredients are very expensive and inevitably bring up the total cost of the product. Peptides are a great example. Mass market brands will either have no or very low concentrations of synthetic peptides, compared with professional lines that devote a greater amount of the formulation of these target-driven ingredients.’

Professional skincare lines, who have professionals assisting individuals with products to match their specific skin type and specific concerns, have products that maximize the active ingredients for maximum results. Something impossible to do for the uncontrolled distribution channels at mass.  Products that make a visible and tangible difference on the skin are in demand. Mass market brands tend to be more ‘beauty-oriented” and rely heavily on marketing.

Lavandou Skincare has partnered with the best of the best in Professional skincare companies such as: YonKa of Paris, Jan Marini Skin Research, Sothys, MD Formulations, Cellex-C, Dermal-K, Tend Skin and Jane Iredale Mineral Makeup.  Products produced by these companies are product specific and because they are prescribed by skincare professionals have the best active ingredients avilable

Pollution, cigarette smoke, exposure to UV rays, climate variation, and more: your face encounters harsh environmental factors
every day. These damaging factors generate a large quantity of free radicals, overwhelming the body’s self-defense
system: this is oxidative stress, which is responsible for premature aging of the skin and causes a dull, muddy complexion.Specially designed to fight this stress, Vital Defense Crème helps the skin to remain youthful; the skin is oxygenated, stress-free, glowing. *Free radicals play a major role in tissue balance. When present in excessive numbers, they attack cell membranes, altering the communication between cells. At the cutaneous level, they trigger premature aging.

The best defense against free radical damage is a good offense. Lavandou and YonKa understand the best approach is to nutralize the ‘free radical damage’ on a daily basis as part of your daily skincare regime. YonKa’s new Vital Defense does just that.

   Antioxidants are among the most popular ingredients in skin care products these days.  A nutrient that is manufactured by the human body, naturally found within many beans, grains, fruits and vegetables, and even produced synthetically, antioxidants are now added to everything from soft drinks to our skin care products.

When it comes to skin care, the presence of antioxidants is nearly expected. Those who work in the esthetic industry recommend antioxidant-rich products to clients daily, citing the science that proves their ability to protect skin health and its appearance .

Oxygen is essential to the human body because it enables cells to harness energy from food, it also has the potential to cause harm.  When molecules within cells encounter oxygen, a reaction occurs and a free radical is produced. This process is called oxidation, and it can stem from endogenous factors, this is, factors within the body, such as breathing and metabolism, as well as exogenous factors outside the body, most notably excessive sun exposure, pollution, cigarette smoke and more.  Free radicals are also formed as a result of the natural aging process.

Free radicals are unstable atoms or molecules characterized by at least one unpaired electron. Thus, the free radical steals electrons from nearby molecules within the cell, turning them into a free radical. A chain reaction that causes increasing damage to the cells of the body. As this free radical cascade continues, it can lead to disease such as: heart disease, Parkinson’s and even cancer. Free radicals are also a leading cause for aging. In skin, free radicals lead to the breakdown of collagen and elastin, resulting in the development of fine lines and wrinkles.

Antioxidants neutralize endogenous and exogenous factors by providing electrons to free radicals, thereby disabling them and preventing cell damage. There are thousands of known antioxidants such as Vitamins A, C and E and beta carotene that fall into several antioxidant categories, including carotenoids, flavonoids and polyphenols. The goal is to keep more antioxidants in the body than free radicals. As people age, the body produces more free radicals and fewer anioxidants, which are not stored in the body, resulting in the need for regular replenishment.  For this reason we now understand it to be necessary to augment the body’s production of antioxidants with those from outside sources, including foods and supplements.

Not all antioxidants are created equal, in fact ingesting antioxidants in too high of levels can have a negitive impact. It is important to choose carefully. High-end skin care lines as used by Lavandou Skincare all include antioxidant at optimin levels to fight free radicals.

YonKa of Paris utilizes antioxidants derived from nature whereas Jan Marini Skin Research is a leading company in clinically based anti-aging products.

Many find it next to impossible to consume adaquate antioxidants in our daily diet. Luckily we have a very viable option with daily supplements. Jan Marini Skin Research has developed a daily supplement designed specifically to enhance our skin’s health. The product: ??Jan Marini C-Estamins ?with BioCell Collagen II supplies many critical components that have been shown to promote energy and provide support for enhanced well-being and longevity.

Biggest sins in skincare

Exfoliation & Moisturizing!

It’s been a harsh winter and looking in the mirror reveals our exposure to the cold weather with lower humidity, the harsh winds and extended periods sitting in controlled (heated) home or office environment.

It is this very exposure that creates a build-up of dead skin cells on the outer most layer of our skin. Our bodies become less efficient in sloughing off this top layer as we age. Removing this build-up of dead skin cells or exfoliation has a number of benefits. You will notice immediately that your skin feels smoother and the fine lines and wrinkles will be a little less noticeable. Your skincare products will be more affective as it becomes easier to penetrate deep into the dermis.

Lavandou Skincare has a line of ‘full spectrum’ sun protection products that are waterproof, contain an antioxidant and moisturizer for the most elegant feel:  Sun Protection

Moisturize – now that we have removed the dead skin cells we want to moisture our skin. Our skin becomes thinner as our dermis becomes dry, the collogen cells cannot renew themselves without proper moisture and this soo becomes visible in the mirror. Apply your favorite moisturizer booth AM and PM. It’s a good idea to feed the cellular level of your skin with hyaluronic acid which will absorb 100 times it’s weight in water.

The result – a full healthy skin structure that will provide a much improved reflection in the mirror.

SkinStore.com, the nation’s leading e-commerce specialty retailer providing scientifically sound solutions for healing and maintaining healthy skin, has added the LED skin care device LightStim to its assortment of premium beauty products.
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LifeWave executives, company ambassador/best-selling author/health advocate Suzanne Somers and hundreds of its distributorship leaders and members recently gathered at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Laguna Niguel, California to usher in a new era in anti-aging with the global launch of the new Y-Age Aeon patch.
San Diego-based LifeWave is an international distributorship company that offers a unique [...]