Skincare Product Ingredients Explained

1 Pro-Xylane – fights sagging skin

Pro-Xylane, a new anti-aging molecule based on “green technology” from L’Oréal’s laboratories, offers hope for menopausal women suffering from sagging skin. This unique molecule is derived from xylose, a sugar used by glycans (proteins) to fill the skin. Not only does it help restore glycan synthesis in the dermis layer, it works on the synthesis of anchorage proteins that strengthen the bond between the epidermis and dermis. This helps make the outer layer of skin look plump and full. After seven years of research, the results look very promising, and L’Oréal is using the ingredient in Vichy, Lancôme, Biotherm and La Roche-Posay products.

2 Giucosamine Complex – evens out skin tone

While most skin-care companies focus on wrinkles, actual skin colouration and unevenness can increase your perceived age by up to 10 years. Procter & Gamble researchers found that when they combined a glucosamine complex containing N-acetyl glucosamine with niacinamide they were able to significantly reduce the amount and appearance of hyperpigmentation, age and sunspots on the skin. The way it works is that the glucosamine interrupts certain processes and reactions that cause the melanocytes to over-produce melanin. Over a fourweek period, spots begin to fade and skin tone evens out, resulting in healthier-looking skin.

3 Lactic Acid – the latest take on alpha hydroxy acid

While AHAs have been popular for decades, there is renewed interest in lactic acid. Not only does the ingredient exfoliate the skin, but researchers have discovered that it also interferes with the melanin pathway that leads to age spots. As well, it acts as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin.

4 Anti-inflammatories – good for soothing skin

New research suggests that irritation ages the skin by setting off a chain reaction of injury to the skin’s surface. “Any time your skin is under attack or stressed, it is going to age faster,” says McCliskie. Forthat reason, researchers are utilizing soothing plant extracts to calm the cells internally and encourage their return to a healthy state. Algae extract and Santalum album (sandalwood) seed extract are particularly important ingredients. Scientists believe this approach is the key to younger-looking skin.

Algae ingredients provide botanical antiinflammatory effects

5 Peptides – stimulate collagen production

This family of ingredients is generating great excitement in the anti-aging community for its ability to stimulate collagen production. Palmitoyl pentapeptide is of particular interest because it works in a similar manner to Vitamin C or retinoids with less irritation. NeoStrata Wrinkle Repair is peptide-based.

Collagen fibres support the skin an give it fullness

6 Idebenone – a powerful antioxidant that protects cells

Antioxidants are still some of the most potent weapons in a modern skin-care arsenal. The ingredients act to protect cells from free radicals caused by sun damage and stress, ldebenone (pronounced ee-dee-ben-own) is a bright orange powder that was used by German scientists in the 1980s to preserve cell tissue from deterioration prior to organ transplants. Developed by Allergan, the creators of Botox, and Elizabeth Arden, the ingredient was reworked and found to effectively protect cells from outside damage. And since cells didn’t have to work to fend off environmental hazards, they were free to focus on healing themselves. Look for this ingredient in Elizabeth Arden Prevage.

stop being your own worst enemy!

avoid sun damage If you only invest in one anti-aging product, make it a broad-spectrum sunblock and use it every day. The latest advance in sunscreen is Mexoryl XL, which deflects an extra-high proportion of both UVA and UVB rays. Mexoryl XL is used in L’Oréal sun products.

practise good skin care As strange as it sounds, using skin-care products incorrectly can cause problems later in life. Learn how to remove makeup properly, and apply sunscreens to allow the skin to breathe. Follow up with regular exfoliation to encourage skin-cell turnover. And finish with a light moisturizer to protect the skin’s water barrier.

don’t mix brands With literally hundreds of skin-care product launches each year, it’s no wonder many Canadians like to try the very latest products. Unfortunately, that can lead to irritated and sensitive skin later on. Skin-care products need time to work as your body becomes accustomed to the formulas. Each brand develops products to work together for best results. Pick a brand and stick with it.

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