Good Skin Care Reviews

There’s a new approach to tackling acne, and it’s not only about good habits. It’s also about which age box you check off. Read on for the latest ways to fix your flare-ups fast.

Acne is always a pain, but it seems to be even more so in your 20s and 30s — when you think you should have outgrown it. It can be tackled, but you need to understand that the causes are different. In your 20s, outbreaks are mainly related to changes in hormones, while in your 30s, they’re also tied to a weakening of skin cells that happens with age. Once you know the triggers, you can treat and clear up your complexion — from here on out.

[Photograph]: TODD MARSHARD. FASHION STYLIST: GIGI SOLIS-SCHANEN. HAIR: NOAH HATTON FOR REDKEN/CUTLER. MAKEUP: MARINA ANDERSSON FOR LA MER. MANICURE: TABITHA FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM. BRA: MYLA LONDON; ROBE: COSABELLA.

ACNE IN YOUR 20s

The big picture: Oil production is still in overdrive from your teens, and you’re probably experimenting with products. This means clogged pores and persistent breakouts.

WHY YOU GET ZITS NOW

HORMONE SWINGS. Your hormone levels (estrogen and testosterone) are still fluctuating. These up-and-down shifts cause your skin to overproduce oil, which is a major cause of clogged pores and pimples, says New York City dermatologist David Kriegel.

CONSTANTLY SWITCHING PRODUCTS. Derms say it’s common for younger patients to try out a bunch of acne remedies at once. “In your 20s, you’re typically still trying to find what works best for you,” explains New York City dermatologist Dennis Gross. “But piling on too many things can weaken your skin and make it more susceptible to zit-causing bacteria.”

WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE

You’ll usually see breakouts in the T zone, where you have the most oil glands. You’re prone to whiteheads and blackheads (both of which occur from oil and bacteria buildup, as mentioned above). If your pores become infected deep beneath the surface, you also might notice some cysts filled with pus (the kind of zit you’re tempted to squeeze).

[Photograph]: Your T zone
(ILLUSTRATION) STUART MCKENZIE/EYECANDY.CO.UK. (STILL) CHRIS ECKERT/STUDIO D.

HOW TO CLEAR THINGS UP

The key to getting rid of these kinds of breakouts is using products that slow oil production and kill bacteria, explains Los Angeles dermatologist Gregory Van Dyke. Here’s your ideal routine: Wash twice a day with an exfoliating cleanser that contains salicylic acid (try Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash Pink Grapefruit Foaming Scrub, $5.99), and spot treat zits with a benzoyl-peroxide product (like Clean and Clear Persa-Gel 10, $4.99). Keep your skin grease-free with a light moisturizer (we like Cetaphil Daily Facial Moisturizer SPF 15, $10.50). If your acne condition is serious, talk to your derm about prescription options (like Tazorac or Accutane). You might also want to consider blue-light therapy (8 sessions are usually needed, with an average total cost of $1,200, part of which may be covered by insurance).

Reduce zit redness and swelling by using a warm-towel compress moistened with a few drops of tea-tree oil before applying makeup.

THE BEST COVER-UP IN YOUR 20s

Remove shine with a mattifying oil-free foundation. Dab zits in your T zone with a concealer containing salicylic acid, and set with a mineral powder (like the Clinique one below). This will hide blackheads and whiteheads and absorb grease without settling into pores. On-the-go tip: Mix a dab of spot treatment and concealer, roll onto a cotton swab, and toss into a baggy for touch-ups.

[Photograph]: Clinique Redness Solutions Instant Relief Mineral Powder, $29.50, available in February

ACNE IN YOUR 30s

The big picture: Your oil production is slowing down and your skin is less resilient to stress, which can lead to flaky, red breakouts.

WHY YOU GET ZITS NOW

DRYNESS AND INFLAMMATION. Even if you’ve had a perfect complexion your whole life, you can still be vulnerable to acne in your 30s since the skin’s defense barrier weakens with age, says Beverly Hills derm Debra Luftman. This makes it easier for bacteria to inflame your pores, leading to zits. Skin cells also start to regenerate at a slower rate, which creates flakes that can get trapped under the surface, forming stubborn blemishes. Sun damage can exacerbate redness too, says Dr. Van Dyke.

[Photograph]: CHRIS ECKERT/STUDIO D. TODD MARSHARD. BLOUSE: MICHAEL KORS. JACK MISKELL. STUART MCKENZIE/EYECANDY.CO.UK.

STRESS. A high amount of the stress hormone cortisol is a top cause of adult acne, especially when big lifestyle changes — getting married, having a baby, working longer hours — keep levels high for long periods of time, explains Dr. Luftman. Lack of sleep compounds the problem since our cortisol levels drop when we snooze, and studies show that women in their 30s tend to get less shut-eye than those in their 20s do.

WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE

Acne looks different in your 30s. First, it usually strikes along the U zone — the jawline and cheeks — where cortisol hormones are most active. The skin there also tends to be driest, and dead skin stuck in your pores creates small, red bumps. Blemishes also may leave behind dark marks for a few weeks, since melanin pigmentation increases in your 30s.

[Photograph]: Your U zone

HOW TO CLEAR THINGS UP

Switch up your approach from your 20s. Now it’s all about fending off inflammation and debris without drying out your face. Here’s your ideal routine: Wash with a mild cleanser that exfoliates (like Clinique Acne Solutions Cleansing Foam, $17.50), and dab on a nondrying salicylic-acid spot treatment (try Clean and Clear Advantage Acne Spot Treatment, $6.49). Finish with a calming moisturizer that contains soy and vitamin C to lighten any hyperpigmentation (we like Neutrogena Visibly Even Daily Moisturizer SPF 30, $13.99). Once a week, do a glycolic peel to clean out pores without stripping away too much oil. You can also talk to your derm about laser therapy or prescriptions like Retin-A to clear up your complexion if you’re not seeing results. And try to cut back on stress when possible — don’t skimp on sleep too many nights in a row, and relax with friends regularly.

Triggers at Any Age

* GOING ON OR OFF BIRTH-CONTROL PILLS. “Changing the hormone levels will alter your body’s chemistry, which may cause you to break out even if you didn’t before,” Dr. Kriegel explains.

[Photograph]: Check your complexion for changes in diet and lifestyle.

* THINGS THAT MAKE YOUR CHEEKS TURN RED. “Hot drinks, spicy foods, and red wine can inflame your skin, weakening it and making a breakout worse,” says Dr. Gross.

* YOUR TOOTHPASTE. “We don’t know why, but fluoride can cause breakouts,” Dr. Luftman says. Try a fluoride-free formula to help clear your chin.

THE BEST COVER- UP IN YOUR 30s

Camouflage dryness and redness with a tinted moisturizer, and apply concealer along your U zone, says makeup artist Matin. Then use a small brush to dot it over pimples, and blend with your finger. Top with translucent powder to set.